Tom Brett

Make Mine a Triple

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One of the most iconic alpine passes in Switzerland - the St Gotthard Pass - has been missing from my cycling CV. To remedy this, just after 9 o'clock on a sunny Saturday morning I found myself getting off a train at Airolo, in the Swiss canton of Ticino, and heading north out of town up the "old" St Gotthard pass road.

There must have been some sort of classic car event on, because every now and then I was overtaken by small groups of elegant old sports cars ("some talk of a Lagonda, some prefer a nice MG..."). I think they must all have switched to the "new" road higher up, though, because I didn't see any more of them after I had taken an innocent-looking left turn signposted "Tremola" and found myself facing this:

Yes - the legendary 14km of cobblestoned hairpin bends through Val Tremola on the old preserved St Gotthard coach road! I had specifically planned the ride from south to north in order to tackle this section in the uphill direction, which I felt would be safer and more comfortable than down. I don't think I was wrong. I saw plenty of gaps between the cobbles which would have been wide enough to sink a narrow road-bike tyre, and even a few which could threaten my meatier 26x1.75's.
Here's a glance back down the valley over those hairpins:

According to Strava - and who am I to argue? - it took me 1 hour and 53 minutes to get to the top (2091m above sea level), making me the 42nd fastest out of 44 riders who logged the ascent that day. See, I told you I'm slow!

At this point I stopped for a sandwich and to consider my next move. This was my first major pass ride of the year, and I hadn't been sure beforehand how my fitness would stand up to it. My options included continuing over the pass down the north side to Andermatt and catching the train home from there; or returning to Airolo via mountain bike trail no.65, which takes a loop to the east of the road I had come up. However, as I actually felt fine and had plenty of the day still ahead of me, I decided to activate my more ambitious plan to continue over the Furka pass (2436m) and optionally on northwards over the Grimsel pass (2164m) to finish at Meiringen. I have ridden both of those passes before - the Grimsel being one of my favourites - but only in the opposite direction.
The descent towards Hospental started out on the old road, with more cobbles and more lovely scenery:
After a few km, though, the road merges with the "new" road, which had an irksome amount of motor traffic on a summer Saturday. I branched off instead onto another part of mountain bike trail 65, at this point a single trail (shared with hikers) sticking close beside the river. Not being an expert mountain biker, there were a few sections where I had to walk, but it was very peaceful, and nice to be away from the traffic.
Speaking of irksome, both sides of the St Gotthard were plagued by a significant number of large flies, which didn't cause too much trouble on the ascent, but peppered me while descending at speed. I was glad of the protection from my wrap-around sunglasses! - although one insect still somehow managed to bounce around the edge of the glasses and get in my eye. I don't remember so many flies on any of my other pass rides - maybe it's just a seasonal thing when they all emerge on the onset of warm weather.
After another short spell on the main road, and another section of trail 65 on a gravel farm track, I arrived in Hospental. If you stuck to the road, you'd bypass the centre of the village, which would be a shame because it's very pretty, and also crucially has a drinking-water fountain, which was very welcome as my bottles were almost empty by now.

From Hospental I picked up trail no.410 which follows the valley gently climbing towards Realp, the village at the base of the Furka pass. This is another gravel farm track, and in all honesty I'd recommend taking the road, since there's little motor traffic and you can make much better progress on tarmac. Also, somewhere along the gravel I picked up a puncture and was brought to a halt, for the second time in a week, by the dreaded hiss of escaping air! This time, though, following my experience on the previous weekend's ride, I was armed with my CO2 inflator and I was determined not to let the puncture derail my plans. I had the tube changed and inflated and the bike reassembled in 1/2 hour and then I spent another 15mins having coffee from my flask, and an energy bar, before resuming. It turned out that last week's puncture had left such a big hole in the tyre that the inner tube was getting abraded through it; so I temporarily patched the inside of the tyre (as well as changing the tube) and resolved to scrap that tyre as soon as I got home!
Refreshed and repaired, I set off steadily up the Furka pass which there's not much to say about really except that it felt long! (At about 900m elevation gain, it's actually about the same as the Gotthard.) The views were expansive, rather than immediate like the Gotthard where you are mostly in a valley. It was also the first time I have done the Furka in clear sunny weather! Once I finally made it to the top, the view down the other side, over the Rhone glacier was truly spectacular - with the hairpin bends of my next objective, the Grimsel pass, visible in the distance (just above dead centre of the photo).

I got chatting to a group of Dutch cyclists who were on the last pass of their own "triple" of Nufenen, Gotthard and Furka and were now looking forward to a nice long descent back to their starting point! We helped each other out by taking photographs at the pass summit sign:

Having made it up the Furka, the Grimsel was almost a given, as it only involves some 400m more ascent from the village of Gletsch where the Furka and Grimsel pass roads diverge. After the amount of climbing I'd already done, I could convince myself that another 400m was a mere trifle...! In well under another hour from Gletsch, I had made it to the top and had completed my first-ever "triple"! There was plenty of snow still at the top of the Grimsel, and very picturesque ice floes on the lakes. I really love that rocky, icy, dramatic landscape!

Now I just had the 30km or so of descent to Meiringen where I could catch the train home - although it wasn't all downhill, as there's a bit of a sting in the tail about 6km before Meiringen where the road has to go over a hill to avoid the very narrow Aareschlucht (river Aare gorge). Luckily I still found enough reserve power in my legs to propel myself up a few more hairpin bends!
Before that, I had a very enjoyable and spectacular long descent through amazing scenery (and with almost no traffic). The road goes through a few tunnels and the longer ones have bypass options on the old road or track, which are well worth taking (if your tyres are up to it) because of the terrific views into the river gorge from the old road cut into the mountainside. Here's one of those tunnel bypass sections - you wouldn't want to miss this!

I got to Meiringen 15mins before the next train - just enough time to replenish my blood sugar level with ice cream and apple juice - before spending the train ride home curating the many photos I'd taken, and finally getting home to an appropriate meal of bicycle-shaped pasta :D

Type:

Ride

Workout_type:

default

Date:

2017-06-10T07:12:04Z

Avg Pace:

4:34/km

Elevation:

2912.2

Distance:

92997.2

Moving time:

25502

Activity id:

1030061139

Strava title:

Make Mine a Triple

Total photo count:

Title:

Make Mine a Triple

Summary Polyline:

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Average speed:

3.647

Embed link:

https://www.relive.cc/view/1030061139

Language:

English

Cover image:

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StreamLatLng:

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StreamVelocity:

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QHjr 🏃

Sat, 10/14/2017 - 01:03

Awesome views! What a ride!

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Make Mine a Triple

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