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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland

Never mind the lark - I'm up with the cuckoo!

Caroline and I were spending a few days as guests of a friend in Ticino (the Italian-speaking canton of Switzerland) and, as I had to be back at work on Monday, I planned an early start on Sunday to catch a train part of the way home before commencing my bike ride.  As it happened, the alarm clock wasn't needed, because we were both woken by a cuckoo singing its call apparently right outside our open bedroom window - really loudly! It was full daylight already and I checked the time ... 05.40. I had slept like a baby after yesterday's exertions, and I felt well rested, so decided to get up, make coffee and catch an earlier train than originally planned.
I had a fast, easy, mostly downhill ride to Locarno which got me there in good time for the 07.35 train to Castione-Arbedo, my starting point for the day's "real" ride.   Note the clear blue sky. The day was set to be a scorcher!

My plan was to cross the San Bernardino, another pass I've never ridden before, finishing at Thusis where I would catch the train home. My route almost exactly matched the Swiss national bike trail no.6 (three stages of it, in fact) and this highlighted my problem with the mapping in Strava's route planner.  Strava recently removed the setting to show recommended bike routes (they used to show up as green lines on the map), and the Strava "use popularity" feature is no help either, because it seems that most Strava users are road bike riders who want to use the smoothest available roads - whereas the Swiss trails frequently use traffic-free back roads with less pristine tarmac, as well as the occasional gravel track. Here's a fairly typical chunk of Swiss trail no.6 so you can see for yourself:

All in all, planning a route in Strava using the national bike trails is a time-consuming, frustrating and ultimately often futile business! Anyway, rant over - back to the story. To cut a long story short, my attempts to follow Route 6 were only somewhat successful, partly due to the mapping issue and partly due to the very inconsistent signage. I ended up on the main road (which in fact didn't have an unreasonable amount of traffic, on a Sunday morning in June) all the way from Soazza, where Route 6 merges in from the back lanes, to the Pass summit - having totally missed the part where Route 6 diverges onto back roads again between Mesocco and Pian San Giacomo.  I'm quite certain that this section was only signposted for Mountain Bike Route 640, so take note if you are planning to follow this route yourself.
Here are some other cyclists overtaking me on the cobbled climb through Mesocco: I'd have missed this if I had found the turning to Route 6:

Practical info: there is a drinking water fountain in Mesocco (in fact I think there are two) and another in San Bernardino village.  No drinking water at the pass, unless you want to buy something in the restaurant. Then that's your lot until you get down to the villages at valley level on the other side (Hinterrhein, Nufenen, Splügen, etc.). Before Soazza, where Route 6 is off the main road, there are loads of water fountains along the way.
What of the pass route itself? It was LONG!!! I found it much more arduous than my last pass ride a week ago, even though that other one had more elevation gain and went to a higher altitude. Not sure whether it was because this time the main climb was all in one go - from Castione-Arbedo at 283m right up the the pass at 2066m - or because of the energy-sapping heat (up to 34 deg.C), or because my limbs were stiff from that rather tough hike the previous day with over 1000m of elevation gain (hiking not really being my thing!). Also, the term "false summit" could have been invented for this pass! Every time I thought I could see the end in sight with just a few more hairpins to go, I would come over the next shoulder of the mountain and find yet more climb and yet more hairpins in front of me! Even when I did get to the last flat section past the lake at the top, I hardly dared to believe it, because the altimeter on my phone was still showing 100m below the summit height! 
Here are a couple of shots of that summit lake:

So did the scenery make all that hard work worthwhile? Well, not really, at least on the south side.  It was basically just a long, long climb through fairly standard Swiss fields, trees and villages.  There was the occasional dramatic glimpse, but really nothing whatever to compete with the grandeur of some of the other passes I have ridden such as the Albula, Grimsel or St Gotthard.

On the north side the scenery was somewhat more dramatic. Could almost be Scotland!

There was an amazing flight of hairpin bends to descend to the Hinterrhein valley, one after the other in regular formation until I wondered which would quit first, the hairpins or my brakes! You can see them on my Relive.cc video at about 01:08 - see link at the bottom of this article.
In fact, the most dramatic scenery of all - frankly jaw-dropping - was in the Rhine gorge between Splügen and Thusis (which you could go and take a look at without all that effort of riding over the pass in the first place!). Here, the young river Rhine has cut very deep, almost impassable gorges in the rock, none more so than at the point known since Roman times as Via Mala - "the bad road"! The story of the usage of this route, through Roman and mediaeval times to the present day, is really fascinating, and rather than replicating it here I'll just link you to the wikipedia article, which is well worth a read.  Here are a couple of my photos at Via Mala, which barely do it justice:
This whole section of the valley is real Lord of the Rings stuff, with impossibly tall, sheer rock faces towering above the river torrent, interspersed with dark forests; the road itself clinging to a ledge hewn into the rock face itself.  To my shame this is my first time there in 7 years living in Switzerland; it's a real "must see"!
Also on the must-see list is the church in Zillis, renowned for its exceptionally preserved 12th-century frescoes; my time was running tight for the train I wanted to catch, but I found that I couldn't just take a quick look without paying for admission (the ticket also covers the companion exhibition) so I decided to leave it for another occasion when I have enough time to do it justice.
The half hour I didn't spend looking at 12th-century frescoes, I was able to devote instead to eating Bündner Nusstorte - the local speciality in the canton of Graubünden, just about mandatory for any bike ride which ends there! - in Thusis while waiting for the next train.
Would I ride the San Bernardino again? In all honesty I'm inclined to file this one under "been there, done that"; next time I find myself wanting to cross to the north out of Ticino, I'll choose a pass which gives me more scenic value for my effort, thanks awfully.  Gotthard, Luckmanier, Nufenen or Centovalli: there's plenty of choice!

Type: 
Ride
Workout_type: 
default
Date: 
2017-06-18T06:08:50Z
Avg Pace: 
4:20/km
Elevation: 
2603.9
Distance: 
99798.9
Moving time: 
25950
Activity id: 
1042830519
Strava title: 
San Bernardino Pass S to N
Total photo count: 
12
Title: 
Never mind the lark - I'm up with the cuckoo!
Summary Polyline: 
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Average speed: 
3.846
Language: 
English
Cover image: 
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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland
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