風勢與氣勢


一離開Valloire立即豁然開朗,視覺與Col du Telegraphe不同。全程由上到落的三四十公里都有開闊和俊秀的山給人享受,似是向大家證明山都有萬種變化的,先是綠草、小溪、多彩草朵的平坦景,之後右面的荒涼灰色岩石亮相,岩石的裙腳已被碎石封印,遠看似是光滑的沙粒,左面是一排狗牙的山脈。之後緩緩上斜,遠山有雲海,下面有大個翠綠山谷、像毛筆書法的漂亮車路,加起來壯闊而有氣勢。與其他山路不同,高處的岩石地貎非常突出。最難得是景觀不重覆,每爬升一點又有新的山勢欣賞。Col du Galibier是法國名山路,今年環法的最高點正是這裡。名不虛傳。
今天的車路完全被單車人攻佔,簡直像單車日。見到有些單車掛著同一個牌,可能是什麼單車活動,又或是星期日多單車人吧,完全與瑞士的冷清相反。今日不斷有單車人主動在我
旁邊跟我傾計,我問其中一個,他說他們參加了兩天單車活動,每日要踩百多公里。怪不得今朝七八點已見酒店附近滿是單車。見有很多是阿伯阿婆,要踩上山加過百公里,太佩服了。法國公路單車文章與意大利很不同,單車人更真材實料,一星期以來極少見ebike,今天全日只見一部,明明山下的租車店不缺ebike。
可能今天很多都是活動參加者,有種一家親的感覺,他們也不介意主動找我談話,我想是帶住行李上山加上華人,引起他們的好奇。有些發現我不懂法文就無奈離去,有個就介紹一些心水山路給我。
山上愉快氣氛在上到2000米左右一下子變弱,出現強勁側風及逆風,非常吃力。在U形彎要好小心,風向會大轉變,較易翻車。有些人開始推車,有人在背風位休息,有人排成一列擋風。
再上多三幾百米,擔心風力進一步加強,相反是減弱了一點。差不多上到頂,又有攝影人出現,這種不請自來的網上收費下載照片生意,只在幾條最出名山路出現,Stevlio、Iseran和Galibier。不過我搞錯了,看來是大會的攝影師。到落山時另一邊卻真的有收費攝影師。
Galibier的山坳好細,容不下餐廳,但一樣聚了極多單車人。
落山,又有超級風景,南下的路比較筆直,車路就在無限延續的山谷旁邊,又是另一種宏偉。忽然右面出現一條柱型紀念碑,有個單車人解答是紀念Tour de France始創者。環法最先是由法國一份運動刊物所組織,傳媒在當年還是社會先驅。找這條山路來紀念他,合理。
這邊落山路又直鋪裝得又平滑,一直保持四五十公里下山也不危險,一邊衝下去一邊望景,決不Col du Galibier是整個旅程中由上到落最目不暇給的山路。
再落,開始見到村鎮,並且有星期日巿集,賣舊貨,古老的農具、過時玩具、衣飾、書,根本是個災後露天收容區,災民把家當攤滿一地,根本沒有生意或經濟活動。
還未物色今晚的住宿,計劃是落到距離Briancon幾公里的Chantemerle,看看感覺如何,也看看星期日超巿是否營業,否則的話落到Briancon再算。Carrefour有開門,而且這個鎮小小的,不太吵,決定住Hotel Olympic。只有主要的馬路以及下面另一條有登山滑雪吊車的街比較旺,與昨天的Valloire類似,商店大都是跟食和運動有關,有Intersport、Sport 2000加幾間租單車店,這種山中小鎮與低地小鎮不同,運動成了這裡的核心文化,旅店會尊重單車人,路上碰見的也是運動裝的行山人或單車友,不作狀,沒有高跟鞋西裝友,同聲同氣。
https://www.relive.cc/view/1097795251

Type: 
Ride
Date: 
2017-07-23T06:31:47Z
Avg Pace: 
4:49/km
Elevation: 
1230
Distance: 
50484.4
Moving time: 
14597
Activity id: 
1097795251
Strava title: 
晨間騎乘
Total photo count: 
0
Title: 
風勢與氣勢
Summary Polyline: 
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Average speed: 
3.459
Cover image: 
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StreamLatLng: 
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StreamDistances: 
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