Hike to the Triple Watershed
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One thing leads to another. When I cycled over the San Bernardino Pass a few weeks ago ( http://storyteller.fit/story/2405 ), I went through the very dramatic Via Mala gorge - an essential but near-impassable transit route which humans have grappled with since Roman times and probably earlier. While looking up its history, I read about the Septimer Pass (Pass da Sett) which was also used by the Romans - it bypasses the Via Mala - but fell into disuse in the Middle Ages when its transit was forbidden by a local bishop, and was never developed as a modern route although it remains as an easily passable trail with traces of Roman structures still visible.
Researching the Septimer Pass as a potential roughstuff cycling route, I stumbled across an author's recommendation to make the additional 300m ascent to the nearby Lunghin Pass, a very rare geographical curiosity where the water flows into three different river systems (Rhine, Danube and Po). The plaque at the watershed claims that it's the only such one Europe - however, this claim is false! https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triple_divide
At some stage in the planning, the concept morphed into a hike - which Caroline and I could do together (as a bike ride, she prefers less rough terrain) - and we wanted to start from the Maloja side, as we prefer a steeper ascent and more moderate descent. Planning it as a Strava route suggested, amusingly, that I could do it as a *run* in about 90 minutes. (Strava doesn't have a "hike" mode for route planning!) As a day's hike, though, it looked eminently doable at about 15km distance and 1000m climb.
Bus timetables eventually dictated doing the route the other way round, so we started from Bivio, around 10am on a beautiful sunny morning. Usefully, as we had already drunk most of our water during the 4hr train & bus journey from Zurich (where we were living at the time), there are drinking water springs in Bivio. Do as we did and fill your bottles here, as there's no drinking water on the mountain.
The ascent from Bivio to Pass da Sett follows a broad, green valley with a fairly gentle gradient and easy hiking conditions, with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains.
At some point the hiking trail diverged from the gravel agricultural track / cycling trail and followed a stone causeway - which I fancifully imagined might still be the remnant of the original Roman road - before becoming more rugged and fording a stony river bed, which luckily didn't have much water flowing.
After a couple of hours we reached the summit of Pass da Sett - having attracted the attention of a herd of cows which decided to follow us, but luckily lost interest once we got to the pass, and we were able to escape eastwards along a much narrower trail towards Lunghin Pass. In fact there's a choice of two parallel trails here, and we chose the more northern of the two; if we ever go there again, we'll try the other (which runs along the opposite side of the ridge) for a completely different view.
After our lunch stop, we continued through a suddenly dramatically different landscape, with sparser vegetation and vivid red rocks.
The path was steeper and rougher here, and it felt like more than 300 further metres of climb before we reached the top - no doubt the high altitude made it harder for us lowlanders (the top is over 2600m). Then, almost suddenly, we were at the top, and looking down in three directions to three different river systems.
To the east of the pass is Lago Lunghin, which forms the source of the river Inn, flowing into the Danube:
To the south-west and north-west (left and right of the next photo), rivers flow towards the Po and the Rhine:
Near the top, the geology changed again and there were both black and green types of serpentine - just like the Lizard Peninsula in Cornwall where we grew up.
The descent to Maloja was long, narrow and knee-killingly steep; I'm glad I didn't attempt it with a bicycle! There were Highland cattle, and great views over Lake Sils.
Once I'm down to my target weight, I so *am* going to attempt this as a run (probably starting from Maloja, as originally planned). I won't be able to do it in one-and-a-half hours, but maybe in two-and-a-half? Let's see!
Type:
Hike
Date:
2017-08-05T08:05:02Z
Avg Pace:
18:13/km
Elevation:
917.5
Distance:
15109.4
Moving time:
16519
Activity id:
1118412242
Strava title:
Triple Watershed Hike
Total photo count:
7
Title:
Hike to the Triple Watershed
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Bivio to Maloja over Septimer and Lunghin passes
Average speed:
0.915
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/nprkcDVF39Pd6P3-cOkhyMZyY5-W5_Gy_1W5CrALZU4-576x1024.jpg
StreamLatLng:
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StreamDistances:
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