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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland

Night Train to the Middle of Nowhere


I'm willing to bet that not many people begin their cycling holiday by being disgorged from a train at 3.30am in the middle of an unfamiliar country. (We've never done it before, that's for sure!)
 
So, why? Why specifically Gracac, Croatia, and why at 3.30am? Are we crazy? Well, yes, obviously. To answer the other questions, we have to rewind to 1984, which is when Caroline and I last visited Croatia. In those days it was still communist Yugoslavia, and I had to get special permission to travel there because of my job as a government nuclear scientist. (I'm not kidding about any of those things.)

Last year, Caroline had a project to scan a lot of our old photos; the ones from that trip came up, and it was a short step from there to "let's do it again". The decision to do the trip by train stemmed partly from a romantic notion to re-create the transcontinental railway trips of our youth, and partly to avoid the hassle of dismantling and reassembling our bikes for flights (and where the heck do you store the bike boxes until you need them for the return flight?)
Below: Bike wagon on the Zagreb-Split night trainBike wagon on the Zagreb-Split night train
And Gracac at 3.30am - happens to be the time the train gets there: the only train on that route which takes bikes, as far as I could tell from the Croatian railways website. (It's the Zagreb-Split overnight sleeper service.)

Although the ride, and the Strava trace, start in Gracac, the actual story begins in Zurich, where we eased our heavily-loaded bikes out into the dark and rain to catch a 6am train. The weather was doing its best to make us pleased to be leaving Switzerland for (hopefully!) warmer climes...

The course of true train travel, like true love, is never completely smooth, and there were a few snags and alarms along the way. A false alarm right at the beginning when I interpreted an announcement as meaning that our Zurich-Salzburg train might be cancelled, and had got as far as planning a viable detour via Munich before finding that the train we first thought of was ok. The woman with a very yappy lap-dog who got on and, with a whole almost-empty carriage to choose from, decided to settle in the next bay of seats to us, which put paid to any ideas of catching up on our slumber. Finding that our reserved bike spaces on the Salzburg-Zagreb train didn't exist - but the conductor had been forewarned and found us somewhere to put the bikes (turned out that the original carriage had to be taken out of service and was substituted by a different type without bike spaces).

So to our 03.30 arrival in Gracac! We had been terribly worried about being able to get ourselves off the train in the time available - we'd timed one of the earlier station stops at 23 seconds - and imagined a nightmare scenario in which one of us found themselves on Gracac station in the pitch dark with all our luggage, whilst the other got whisked off to Split having got back on the train to unload the bikes! However, the train crew were really helpful, helped us to disembark and made sure we were fine before signalling the train to continue.

So there we were, in the pitch dark in the middle of nowhere, as the red tail light of the train receded from view, and wondering what on earth we had let ourselves in for. Did I mention that there are wolves and bears in Croatia?

Middle of nowhere or not,  Gracac station turned out to be not that bad. It had a warm, spacious and unlocked waiting room - albeit cigarette-scented and in serious need of a lick of paint - where we were able to have our packed breakfast in relative comfort, as well as load and check over our bikes; it had toilets which were clean and had hot running water (!) though without working lights; and it had a decommissioned steam locomotive on a plinth.

By the time we were ready to leave, a drizzly rain had set in - which definitely wasn't in the forecast. We decided to press on, although we seriously considered waiting in the friendly Gracac waiting room until the rain had passed, knowing that the first 25km of our route went over an isolated mountain pass with no possibility of shelter.

It's funny how the things one finds troublesome on a trip are often completely different to the issues one anticipated. The ascent from Gracac to the pass summit turned out to be almost comically easy, even with loaded bikes, and we were at the top almost before we felt we had properly started (with neither sight nor sound of any wolves, in case you were wondering.)  It should have been plain sailing from there on - mostly downhill, the rain left behind on the inland side of the mountain, and a beautiful dawn breaking. The thing we almost came to grief on was the wind shear on the way down the mountain. Even on a morning which was almost calm in both Gracac and Zadar, the seaward side of the ridge was not just very windy but also very turbulent, buffeting our bikes and making them very hard to control, especially at speed downhill with heavy loads. It's evidently a regular hazard on that road because we passed lots of wind-warning road signs.

Once off the mountain, one hazard replaced another as we crossed a plain where there had clearly been a very recent wildfire - we could still smell it, and the fire brigade was still in attendance.



The sun came up, the traffic increased, and we diverted off the main road onto smaller roads with spectacular views in places over the islands and back towards the mainland mountain range we had just crossed.

One final setback saw us encountering a closed road - they had actually built an earth barrier across to show they meant it! - which led to us unexpectedly taking to farm tracks and introducing our first off-roading of the trip somewhat earlier than expected.

We found out later that there had been a rainfall event of biblical proportions (much more even than Hurricane Irma which had just hit Texas and was very much in the news) just a few days before our arrival, and that road had literally been washed away.

Despite this, we still managed to roll into Zadar on schedule just before 11am, and after a short wait for our Airbnb hostess to prepare our room, collapsed into bed for a much-needed catch up on sleep!

Link to video map animation of the ride

Web resources:
Croatian railways FAQ page with list of all trains which take bikes:
http://www.hzpp.hr/en/f-a-q?p=361

Site with info on train formations (where's the bicycle carriage, where are your reserved seats?):
http://www.vagonweb.cz/razeni/?&lang=en

Bikes on ferries information page:
http://www.pedala.hr/bikes-on-ferries/
(Tip: once on this page, selecting and web-searching the ferry number string, e.g. "Trajekt linija 338", will find the PDF timetable for the route.) 

 

Type: 
Ride
Workout_type: 
default
Date: 
2017-09-13T02:30:49Z
Avg Pace: 
3:50/km
Elevation: 
917
Distance: 
78030.3
Moving time: 
17931
Activity id: 
1181746449
Strava title: 
Gracac to Zadar
Total photo count: 
10
Title: 
Night Train to the Middle of Nowhere
Summary Polyline: 
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Average speed: 
4.352
Language: 
English
Cover image: 
https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/8IgaE6tRI6kdpm-jwBsIZOt_6u92B1Tc7RYML54W1Aw-1024x576.jpg
StreamLatLng: 
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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland
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