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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland

I'm off to Vir, dear


One thing I omitted to mention in yesterday's story was that Caroline did it all despite being ill with some sort of ghastly girl-flu. (Which is monstrously worse than man-flu.) If we had had a day ride planned back at home, we would unquestionably have cancelled - let alone a 24hr train journey followed by toiling over a rainswept, windswept, wolf-infested mountain in the dark! But I'm married to a tough cookie, and we had trains and accommodation booked and time off work, and she did it all with hardly a murmur, and she is amazing. Just so that you know!
This is by way of a preamble to explain why I was riding on my own today. Caroline very sensibly decided to have a day's down time, resting at our accommodation in between a couple of gentle excursions in Zadar town.  We had an early picnic breakfast sitting on the sea front by the famous wave organ, having bought fresh pastries from a local bakery and utilised the chance to enjoy (and photograph) the old town before it got crowded.  

That's when she decided to have a rest day and send me off on my own. I looked at the map, and Vir more or less picked itself as a destination, being a smallish island connected to the mainland by a bridge (therefore independent of ferry timetables), and a comfortable day ride's distance away.
There was a fresh southerly wind and Vir lies to the north, so I decided to head outward on the straight, boring main road with the wind blowing me along nicely, and then to meander back to Zadar via various coastal villages, which would break up the headwind and also allow me to scale the amount of meandering according to how much time and energy I had left later in the day.
Our hostess appeared just as I was leaving. "Don't go to Nin", she said, naming one of the potential meandering-villages. "Their bridge got washed away in the floods 3 days ago and the place is a mess." It seems we were REALLY lucky to have missed that rain event!
The main road was just as straight and boring as I had anticipated - quite possibly the most boring road I've ever ridden - but it had a cycle lane!! I was riding along thinking how I was going to write a blog post bemoaning the lack of cycling infrastructure in Zadar - not a single bike lane, bike crossing or bike route signage had we seen - and at that precise moment a beautiful, wide, well-surfaced bike lane appeared out of nowhere. A few km later it also disappeared into nowhere, leaving me stranded on the wrong side of the road with nowhere to go. This pattern was repeated a few more times by the time I reached Vir. If I were tweeting about it, it would definitely qualify for a #bollocksinfra hashtag!
But the biggest #bollocksinfra of all is reserved for the bridge linking Vir with the mainland. The carriageway is narrow, barely room for two large vehicles to pass comfortably in opposite directions. The cycle path merges seamlessly into a narrow raised pavement on one side of the bridge, and as I entered it I realised that my handlebar end was almost skimming the parapet barrier, and if I clipped it then I would most likely fall off the other way into the carriageway and be squashed by the next vehicle. Basically, I was a 2-inch wobble away from death. Having stopped EXTREMELY carefully, I decided that cycling on the carriageway was the least worst option, and so that's what I did (and survived)!

Having made it to Vir alive and at a cracking pace (for me!), some sustenance was needed and so I sat on a bench by the beach for a snack before carrying on round the sea front. After all that death-defying effort to get there, the initial impression of Vir was underwhelming. The place lacked an old-world fishing-village nucleus and just seemed to be one big beach camp occupied by fat Germans, variously equipped with jetskis, e-bikes and/or fat German motor cars. (It could have been worse, though - they might have been fat *naked* Germans, like we encountered back on our 1984 tour.) The sea front road had a deep gravel surface which seemed to have been designed specifically to discourage cycling, and I was making slow, uncomfortable progress. I felt that I was rapidly falling out of love with Vir, before the relationship had even had time to blossom.
When I got to the end of the town, I was on the point of making a right turn to head back towards Zadar, but then changed my mind and decided to give Vir one more chance to please me. Leaving the tarmac to the fat, non-naked Germans and their e-bikes, I headed up a gravel track which pointed directly towards the transmitting aerials at the highest point on the island. 

Back in communist 1984, I'd been strictly cautioned against taking photos of any kind of transport or communications infrastructure, for fear of being arrested for espionage and languishing the rest of my days in some ghastly gulag. No such compunction in 2017! The last bit of track (pictured) was steep, stony and quite difficult to ride - down as well as up.
From the top there was a fantastic panoramic view in all directions!
South back towards Zadar:

East towards Pag and the mainland - with obligatory summit selfie:

North towards the more distant islands of Losinj (north-west) and Rab (north-east) which are our next two ports of call (this photo was actually taken somewhat below the summit):

After savouring the view and the solitude for a few minutes, I was again ready to head back for Zadar, but Vir was really seducing me by now and so instead I headed in the opposite direction to the lighthouse at the northern tip of the island. In the end I only saw the lighthouse from a distance, but I found a lovely secluded spot to eat my packed lunch. Felt a world away from the Mercedes-and-jetski throng of Vir town!

Now it was really time to say goodbye, though, and after recrossing the lethal bridge at full tilt, I immediately turned right to the next village, Privlaka, which had a pretty harbour and yet more fat Germans. You can see them lurking in the right foreground there, like a JCB [photographer's in-joke].

Working my way down the coast back towards Zadar went fine until my path was blocked by a huge fence barring entry to Zaton Holiday Resort, which resembled a high-security prison camp (mostly full of fat Germans). I had to follow a track around the outside of the perimeter fence, which I confidently expected would lead me round to the coast path again, but in fact took me all the way up the hill to the despised main road I had come up by.  A map check confirmed that there was no real alternative to slogging a few km into the headwind along that main road, which was as annoying as I expected, but was over soon enough - and I thankfully turned right again and sped down the hill into Petrcane. It was about 14.00 by now, I'd covered some 70km and I reckoned I had earned a double espresso and a triple ice cream. I chose chocolate, banana and Snickers flavours.

The final link down the coast from here to Zadar was a bit nebulous. There was a gap of around 1km where neither Google nor Strava mapping showed any kind of road or path - but Google satellite view showed what appeared to be a discernible strip of path just above the high tide line. I decided to give it a go on the basis that anything would be better than another stint along that blinking main road!

I reckon coasteering-with-a-bike could become "a thing"! That path turned out to be faint in places and nonexistent in others; I shouldered my bike and hopped daintily from rock to rock, managing to keep the bike out of the salt water although my feet did get wet a few times. It was slow and hard going, but I made it through, and then it was plain sailing back to Zadar, though not as plain as the yachts who were just finishing their race with matching magenta spinnakers flying!
All in all, a good day out, and I was ready for an early supper followed by an evening foray back into Zadar for another sunset and yet more ice cream...!
Video map animation of the ride:.
www.relive.cc/view/1183613546

Type: 
Ride
Workout_type: 
default
Date: 
2017-09-14T07:14:14Z
Avg Pace: 
3:31/km
Elevation: 
729.4
Distance: 
81662.4
Moving time: 
17253
Activity id: 
1183613546
Strava title: 
I'm off to Vir, dear
Total photo count: 
9
Title: 
I'm off to Vir, dear
Summary Polyline: 
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Average speed: 
4.733
Language: 
English
Cover image: 
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StreamDistances: 
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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland
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