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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland

No Stress on Cres


Long ride for us today, and our plan was to have our bikes packed and accommodation cleared in time to be outside the bakery when it opened at 07.00.  

In fact it was 07.10, the low early-morning sunshine was glinting on the yachts and buildings across the harbour, there wasn't much wind, and it generally looked like a good day for a bike ride.

We headed north on the island road. There is basically only one road running the length of the island like a spine, and all the traffic is on it - which wasn't really a problem for us back in 1984 when the traffic amounted to a handful of battered Zastavas (the local name for the cars we in the UK knew as "Yugo") along with some local agricultural traffic and just a few adventurous German or Italian tourists. Now Croatia is firmly on the EU map for both tourism and commerce, and even in mid-September there were a fair few coaches, lorries and especially motorhomes. Not enough to make cycling really unpleasant or dangerous, but enough to know that you're on a main road and not in some idyllic backwater.
Much of the road has in fact been rebuilt since we were there before - in some places you can see the alignment of the old road beside the new, and in others it is still in use where it goes through villages which the new road bypasses. We took full advantage of these diversions, which were mostly more direct than the new road anyway. For a short distance there was even a recently-built section of coastal cycle path with great views back down the island - as well as a rather threatening sky. (The skies have been amazing on this trip.)

We were approaching Osor, a mediaeval monastery village at the divide of the contiguous islands of Losinj and Cres. It's a somewhat spurious division, as the shipping channel between them is man-made, and has a swing bridge which is opened twice a day, at 09.00 and 17.00. By pure coincidence - or good planning, if you like - we were there on the dot of 09.00 and I was able to get some photos of the opening bridge, with the ancient former cathedral in the background. Notably, the bridge operation was completely manual - no electrics or other powered assistance!



The skies chose this precise moment to deliver the only significant rainfall of the day, so we sat in a bus shelter to have our flask of coffee and the pastries bought earlier. By the time we had finished, so had the rain, and we set off again via a detour through the narrow old cobbled streets (actually more like large stone setts) which were positively lethal for bike tyres after the rain!

Then we had a steady climb up onto the mountainous spine of Cres island. (The Croatian "c" is pronounced as "ts", by the way, which makes the name come out as "Tsress". Hence the title of today's post!) The next section of our ride went through very empty countryside on the high interior. The roadside herbs smelt of the lemon and thyme stuffing in a roast chicken (Caroline trotted out the exact Latin name for that plant!), and as we got further north there was more evidence of olive culture and sheep grazing. We resisted the allure of a hostelry with a spit-roasting pig out front, sticking with our packed lunches, which we ate in the village of Orlec, which takes its name from the Croatian word for the griffon vulture.
In 1984 we didn't even bother going into Cres town, a grim-looking communist port with rusting oil tankers in the bay.

Now it's transformed into a sparkling riviera jewel, and I fancied coffee and cake on the waterfront, so we took a diversion off the main road (even though it meant losing some height we would have to regain).

The harbour front is pretty enough, but future cycle tourists take note: there may be no stress in Cres, but there's no cake either. This is an Actual Fact. We asked several locals for recommendations for the best coffee and cake in Cres, but drew a complete blank. We came away empty-stomached with only a "selfie by proxy" by the clock arch to show for our pains, and relying on Pro Plus for the caffeine fix.

Soon after starting the climb out of Cres, our last and biggest of the day, we saw our first griffon vultures of the trip - 4 or 5 of them circling above and ahead of us - waiting for us to expire on the roadside?!  By the time I had changed my camera over from the wide-angle lens to the 300mm, they had moved on out of range, but I did manage to get a shot later on, a technically rubbish photo which I'm quite embarrassed to publish, but definitely recognisable!

Soon after encountering the vultures, we passed a monument showing where the road crosses the 45°N line of latitude, another good excuse for a "selfie by proxy". Caroline decided she would take quite a few photos of me today, to redress the balance as most of the rides have been illustrated with photos of her!

At long last we reached the top of the island, our highest point of the day, and took the side road - still just as narrow and steep as we remember it - to our destination Beli, a dramatic and historic hilltop town (the Romans colonised it as "Caput Insulae"), which we found looking in considerably better shape than last time we were there (we had feared that the opposite would be true). It was quite emotional being back in the same place after 33 years during which so much has happened - both in their lives and ours!
View video map animation of the ride: https://www.relive.cc/view/1189955575

Type: 
Ride
Workout_type: 
default
Date: 
2017-09-18T05:21:20Z
Avg Pace: 
4:22/km
Elevation: 
1288.1
Distance: 
77466.6
Moving time: 
20290
Activity id: 
1189955575
Strava title: 
Mali Losinj to Beli
Total photo count: 
13
Title: 
No Stress on Cres
Summary Polyline: 
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Average speed: 
3.818
Language: 
English
Cover image: 
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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland
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