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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland

Crossing the Velebit


The Velebit mountain region - part of it now a designated national park - runs along the Adriatic coast of Croatia, rising straight from sea level up to some 1700m.  This story would never have happened if the railway had been built along the coastal side of these mountains - but they built it on the inland side - so on our 1984 trip, and indeed on this one, we had to cross it before we could catch our train home.

Looking up from sea level, the climb looks pretty intimidating. This was the view the previous evening from our accommodation, illuminated by the setting sun.  

At least we knew roughly what to expect - and also, thanks to Google maps (even the Streetview car has been up here!), we knew that the gravel track up which we struggled back then has since been mostly tarmaced. It's a shame in some ways, but I'm not totally convinced we'd have made it up there at all if it still looked like the 1984 version!

The climb up from the coast has the most amazing view back down onto the islands, all the more spectacular in the morning sunshine, falling first on the more distant islands and spreading gradually to the closer ones which were initially in the shade of the mountain.

Eventually the sun rose high enough to reach us too, which was a good time to stop for our flask of coffee and the rest of yesterday's delicious Rapska Torta. 

We could clearly see Rab town, including the Cathedral tower from where I'd looked up yesterday at the route we would take; and in the far distance on Cres, we could even make out the hill village of Beli, before it was obscured by haze as the morning grew older. We were incredibly lucky with the weather, considering that it has been decidedly on the dodgy side during this tour. We've been looking back all week at the mainland and seeing Velebit wearing a shroud of cloud - even yesterday - and wondering how we would cope with doing the ride in bad weather.

Besides the tarmac road, we noted other changes. The seaward side of the mountain, almost completely depopulated back then, had a smattering of inhabited houses. There was a lot of tree cover where we remembered mostly just grass and rock, and we think that maybe our 1984 visit more or less coincided with the abandonment of sheep grazing in that area, which would allow the trees to grow back.  There was tourist infrastructure in the form of the national park itself, with ticket booths for visitors to buy entry permits (we were exempt as we were merely transiting), some off-grid cabin accommodation at the top of the pass, and a mountain-lodge-type hostel where the warden kindly provided cups of coffee, since what there was NOT was any kind of café or restaurant. Switzerland this ain't!

We saw the rusting pylons and crumbling station buildings of a long-abandoned cable car installation, which we remembered seeing on our 1984 trip and didn't seem to have deteriorated much more since then - there were even rusty cables still in place. Bizarrely, the map poster on the national park visitor signs still shows a cable car symbol and the route of the pylons. We were curious about its history and managed to find an English-speaking warden to ask. He explained that it had only run for a few years, from 1954 to 1960, having been built (with British investment!) not as tourist infrastructure but for timber extraction down to the port at Stinica - where we had disembarked from the ferry from Rab. It seems that the venture wasn't a success!

It took us about 4 hours to reach the top (including lots of stops to admire that breathtaking view) and then we crossed into a completely different landscape on the landward side. (The road surface also changed to gravel at this point, but only for 8km.) First we came to a high grassy valley with what appeared to be prehistoric field systems still visible.

Then the road dropped gradually down into a deep wooded valley where we could only really see glimpses of views through the trees. Where the road did emerge for a wider view - after a secondary climb which felt interminable to our tired legs, but according to Strava was no more than 250m or so - the forest was spectacular, going on for miles as far as the eye could see.

Our destination turned out to be just up a side road from the spot where the tarmac resumed in 1984 and we had stopped to photograph a horse-drawn cart with some locals - one of whom our hotel host recognised when shown the photo! - looking at us as if we had just landed in a spaceship. I imagine they're much more used to cycle tourists these days.

It was awesome to spend the night in a place with so little light pollution that the sky looked like this...

View the video animation of the ride

Type: 
Ride
Workout_type: 
default
Date: 
2017-09-22T05:14:39Z
Avg Pace: 
5:27/km
Elevation: 
1562.8
Distance: 
57056.5
Moving time: 
18680
Activity id: 
1195962332
Strava title: 
Crossing the Velebit
Total photo count: 
9
Title: 
Crossing the Velebit
Summary Polyline: 
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Average speed: 
3.054
Language: 
English
Cover image: 
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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland
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