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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland

Wenn Engel reisen, scheint die Sonne


We've had amazing luck - perhaps more than we deserved - with the weather on this tour. Because we had pre-booked all our accommodation, we were committed to our longer rides on specific days, and because we'd been anticipating warm settled weather (as per expectations of everyone we met, incuding all the locals who said that this September was very unseasonably cool and wet) we hadn't brought serious wet weather clothes with us. Had we found ourselves having to ride all day in the kind of weather we experienced on our sightseeing day in Beli (see my story "Caput Insulae"), we would have got very wet, cold and miserable indeed, and it would have been hard to argue that we weren't at fault in our planning.

Thus it was with some trepidation that we roused ourselves with our 05.30 alarm on Wednesday morning, even though the forecast suggested that the rain of the last 36hrs should be petering out about that time. Indeed, when we hauled our bikes out into the alleyway for loading, a little light rain was still in the air.

But the auspices were good. The sky was brightening. A solitary griffon vulture drifted high overhead, delivering a flypast salute to speed us on our way. As we changed down through the gears to propel the bikes off up the steep narrow road, the rising sun wreathed Beli in a halo, like the heavenly Jerusalem.

I was reminded of one of my late mother's favourite sayings: "Wenn Engel reisen, scheint die Sonne". 

Our departure from Beli marked the turning point of our tour,  geographically, emotionally and literally. It was our northernmost point and has only one access road; so to leave, we literally had to turn and retrace the route we had come by. It was the place with the most intense memories from our 1984 tour and subconsciously felt like our "destination", even though we hadn't explicitly planned it as such (and we spent longer in both Zadar and Mali Losinj). We had closed the loop on the kindness shown to us previously (see my story "Old Memories and New Friends"), and now it felt as though we were heading home.

As we steadily tackled the long climb to the main road on the ridge of the island, we were treated to ever wider and more dramatic views of the rising sun illuminating the dark waters of the sound between Cres and the other islands. Several photo stops were needed!
All the while as we climbed higher we were more exposed to the brisk north wind (forecast up to 50km/h) and worried whether we would have to cope with another wind shear event when we got to the ridge, like the one we struggled with on our very first ride of this tour.
Photo looking back down the Beli road from the junction with the main road at the top of the island:

In the event, the wind shear wasn't bad and the north wind blew us along nicely; with the downhill gradient too, there was no need to pedal for several miles - quite a bizarre feeling just sitting on the bike and letting it go by itself along a smooth and mostly straight road with minimal input from the rider - had to guard against losing concentration!

Soon we reached the 45° latitude monument, which we had passed in the opposite direction 2 days previously. Seemed like a good place for a coffee break!

All very relaxed - until I suddenly realised that we were running short of time to make it to the 10am ferry from the port at Merag - which wouldn't have been a disaster in itself, as there are several ferries a day on that route, but would have meant hurrying a bit more to reach our accommodation on Rab. So we put our "pedals to the metal" and made it to the ferry with 10mins to spare.

Above: ferry at Merag; below: panoramic view northwards along Cres island from the road approaching Merag ferry port.

The sun was fully out by the time we boarded and the sea was gleaming blue, though being kicked up in white horses as the wind was still blowing freshly. We decided to take sea-sickness tablets (probably unnecessarily, as it turned out) and sat in the most sheltered seats on the deck! This time we weren't the only cyclists aboard, being joined by another British couple who looked just like us with their touring bikes, mudguards and panniers; and a lone German e-biker who was engaged in an epic tour all the way to Turkey - he'd even had a cycling jersey printed with all the countries he was planning to go through - and was keen to tell everyone all about it in minute detail. Although he was a nice enough chap, after our early start we really just needed another coffee and a bit of peace and quiet to enjoy the view, so we extricated ourselves and left him regaling the other Brits. Sorry, chaps!

All the other cyclists were doing the same as us, taking back-to-back ferries from Cres island to Rab, with an hour's layover at Valbiska ferry port on Krk.

There's nothing at Valbiska except the ferry ramps, a filling station and two pizza restaurants, neither of which was actually selling pizza. This was a great shame, because even at 10.30am that's what I really fancied! We had been really enjoying all the authentic locally-sourced food, but sometimes only pizza hits the spot.

Same routine on the second ferry: sheltered seats, coffee, enjoy the view cruising through the islands. Lovely weather for it - although the cloud was starting to build up again. On arrival at Lopar, on the northern tip of Rab, our fellow cyclists hit the tarmac to ride the length of the island and catch yet another ferry - impervious to our blandishments that Rab is beautiful and they really ought to linger. We think they missed out big time, and so will you when you read our next day's blog post ("Feeling Fab on Rab") (which I actually wrote before this one!).

We, on the other hand, went in renewed search of pizza - successfully this time!

Rab island wasn't exactly filling us with wild enthusiasm at this point. The pizzeria we found had its view towards the sea obscured by a (largely deserted) holiday camp complex. The streets from the ferry port were dusty and utilitarian, and when we left after lunch to cycle to Rab town, we had more of the same, along with the trick we previously experienced near Zadar of building beautiful cycle lanes which then suddenly stop, leaving cyclists with nowhere to go. Plus, the cloud had come right over and was threatening more rain. We were keen to get to our Airbnb as soon as possible, have a shower and get some down time before a possible stroll out later.

Easy peasy. Click "get directions" in the Airbnb app and it opens Google Maps with a pin in the destination location. Get yourself to the pin, and the job's a good'un. Except that it wasn't. Couldn't find the house number - it fell in a gap between the numbers we could see. Rang the host's phone number, no reply. Cast around some side streets looking for numbers. Asked some locals. Blank on all fronts. Rain in the air, Caroline getting tired and miserable. Still no reply from host's phone.

I left Caroline at the "pin" and struck out on my own, following the gaps in the numbers up the most horrendous hill which remained the only gradient that defeated me on the entire tour. Pushing my loaded bike to the top with a huge effort, I found the numbers stopped tantalisingly just a few short of the one I was after. (In case you're wondering how this managed to be such a big deal, this part of town was just numbered by locality and number, rather than street and number, so there was no chance even to find the correct street.)

There were three old geezers standing outside someone's garage smoking while one of them tweaked at a motorbike engine and I went and asked them (can't actually remember what combination of languages were used!). They went into a long conference about this elusive house number and eventually gave me lengthy directions which involved going back down the horrendous hill, retracing to the main road we had left some minutes previously and continuing along it some distance. I was frankly sceptical about this advice, and reluctant to lose that height, as I felt that I had been "getting warm" with the numbers and might well end up having to go up it a second time! Faced with no other good options (except for booking us in somewhere else and claiming my money back from Airbnb - which I was within an ace of actually doing), and still getting no reply on the phone, I followed the directions and they were spot on. Kudos to those geezers!

Relief rapidly gave way to annoyance (ok, make that near-incandescent rage which I suppressed as best I could!) as the host was nowhere near sufficiently apologetic. "I was asleep, didn't hear the phone... not my fault Google maps is wrong... oh yes, the last guests complained about this too" (then why the **** didn't you message me with the correct location, instead of wasting an hour of my holiday while my wife gets hypothermic?). Then rage gave way to blind panic as I returned to find Caroline and she wasn't there...

Once we'd found each other and checked in to the flat, which although spacious was as cold and unwelcoming as the owner, we gave up on the idea of a scenic stroll and instead just made it as far as the nearby supermarket to buy the ingredients for a restorative steak supper. Let tomorrow be another day...

View video animation of the ride

Type: 
Ride
Workout_type: 
default
Date: 
2017-09-20T05:08:58Z
Avg Pace: 
4:22/km
Elevation: 
836.3
Distance: 
46554.4
Moving time: 
12177
Activity id: 
1193171661
Strava title: 
Beli to Rab via 2 ferries
Total photo count: 
11
Title: 
Wenn Engel reisen, scheint die Sonne
Summary Polyline: 
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Average speed: 
3.823
Language: 
English
Cover image: 
https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/6u9n6rTr1kB6hIUL-fmWBj4WD6WXYn02c6wMuEP2yys-1024x668.jpg
StreamLatLng: 
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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland
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