Going Solo on Lago Maggiore
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Our SUP season opening and ending trips to sunny Lake Lugano have become something of an institution, so we had actually planned that last weekend's paddling there would be our last of 2017. However, that trip had a rather unfinished-business feeling to it, our original plans having been thwarted by fog in the morning and wind in the afternoon; so when Caroline packed her panniers to go and join our daughter for a leg of her cycle tour across France, I looked at the weather forecast for the weekend that she would be away, and realised that I could fit in one more SUP outing before cleaning and storing the boards for the winter.
Caroline dislikes transits across open water - she prefers to stay close to the shore - so for a change in her absence, I planned a route across Lago Maggiore and back, starting and finishing at Stresa (easily and quickly reachable from Zurich, where we were then living, via the Basel-Milan express train) and exploring a part of the opposite Lombardy coast which we'd not yet been to.
After the by-now-customary 5am start from Zurich, I was on the beach in Stresa ready to pump up the board by about 10. The weather was sunny, but with a distinct autumnal chill, and at this time of year I wouldn't really want to start any earlier. The lake did look very inviting, though, and strikingly free of boat traffic (which can be bothersome here in the summer holiday season).
Windfinder, my go-to weather app for SUP trip planning, suggested that the sunshine wouldn't last long (my other weather app, however, predicted uninterrupted sunshine all day long!), and also that the northerly breeze would reverse to southerly in the early afternoon. My route had been planned accordingly. Also, Google Maps had helped me to identify a promising harbour-side restaurant in Arolo, over on the Lombardy side of the lake. Can't imagine what we did before the Internet Age - but then, stand-up-paddling didn't exist as a concept in those days, either!
Actually, the wind felt quite a bit stronger than 9km/h, and once I was out of the shelter of the Gulf of Borromeo I found myself dealing with a fairly choppy sea - even with a few white horses in places. Most of the transit to Arolo was done kneeling rather than standing - this lowers the centre of gravity and makes it much easier to avoid being tipped into the drink. At risk of getting ahead of the narrative, this pair of photos illustrates the difference in sea state at the beginning and the end of the day:
I elected to take a straight route across the lake to Arolo - my original plan had been to follow the western shore a bit further south before crossing - partly to keep the NW wind more directly astern (trying to keep a SUP on a straight course in a crosswind is no joke!), and partly to save time, because I realised that if the predicted wind direction change didn't occur, I would struggle to get back to Stresa against it in time for my return train.
I was more or less in the middle of the lake when I saw what appeared to be a piece of floating rubbish dead ahead of me. Generally, when Caroline and I pass floating litter, we fish it out of the water and take it to shore for disposal, doing our bit to keep the lake environment clean. It was a red and yellow box, and I was about to grab it when I realised it was attached to a thin rope disappearing off into the depths of the lake. Next thing, I had run over the rope and it had wrapped itself around the fin of my board, immobilising me and making me much more vulnerable to being tipped over by the choppy seas. In alarm I wondered what on earth it might be and what it could be anchored to, or supporting below the surface, in this deep part of the lake. Drugs drop, anyone? Unexploded firework from a display?? I needed to get untangled from it, as quickly as possible. Luckily I managed to keep a clear head and remember which side I had run up against it originally and which way the board had swerved after snagging: this meant that I could work out which way to reverse and release myself. The whole episode probably lasted only about a minute, but was quite unnerving, especially given the almost complete absence of any other boat traffic which could have come to my aid. This experience didn't stop me from salvaging a couple of other pieces of flotsam later in the day, but I was much more cautious approaching them! And in future, I'll consider taking a knife on board with me so I can cut myself loose if anything snags the board - should be standard equipment for any mariner anyway...
The little harbour at Arona was deserted - apart from one old geezer leaning on the promenade railings, who eyed me suspiciously as I approached and failed to respond to my cheery wave and "buon giorno!" - and I began to worry that I would find the restaurant closed, although I did have a plan B for that (eating the sandwiches I'd brought with me for the train journey home, and buying something else later). But then I saw that it had lights on inside, and by the time I had landed and secured my board and swapped my buoyancy aid and dinghy boots for a softshell jacket and a pair of sandals, the timing was perfect for their lunchtime opening at 12 o'clock.
I was the only patron (2 or 3 more did turn up later on), and I chose the corner table overlooking the harbour and the view back towards Stresa the way I had come, also enabling me to keep an eye on my board which I could just see between the parked boats - can you?
The "Ristorante Antico Lido" in Arona lived up to its 4.2/5 Google review score, although there was no set lunch menu (I assume they didn't expect enough guests to warrant it) and the pizza oven only gets fired up in the evenings at this time of year, leaving me with the more expensive à la carte to choose from - still jolly good value compared to Switzerland, though!
All through lunch I was monitoring the fluttering leaves on the nearby trees for any sign of the wind dropping prior to reversing. There was no such sign, and indeed when I emerged at about 13.00, the breeze was still blowing merrily from the north (the direction confirmed by the angle of the sails on a yacht I could see out on the lake), and what was more, the clouds had covered the sun and it really felt quite chilly. I decided to keep my softshell jacket on. On the plus side, the sea state appeared to have calmed somewhat.
My next objective was the dramatic and famous cliffside monastery, Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso, about 2km to the north, which I hoped to visit for an interlude of prayer and tranquility. From my previous dinghy sailing experience, I knew that cliffs tend to generate a patch of stiller air whatever the wind direction, and so by staying very close to the shore I was able to make quite good headway, reaching the Eremo in about half an hour.
I had been very much looking forward to my visit and it hadn't occurred to me that I might not be able to land, especially as the web site states "...visitors can descend the panoramic, 268-step staircase; or, if they have arrived by boat, they climb approximately 80 steps up from the lake." Seems pretty clear to me. As it turned out, there was nothing resembling a jetty for small craft; only the steamer pier, plus a set of metal steps retracted well above lake level, and a sign which stated (as far as I could tell from my limited Italian) "no landing except by public service vessels". And there was nobody on duty for me to hail and ask about landing. So that was that, then. At least the sun had come out again by now, giving lovely light quality on the cliffs and buildings for me to take photos!
Also, the wind had now died away completely - and not yet picked up again from the south, in fact it never really did - and so in an almost glassy calm I set course back across the lake towards Pallanza (the promontory at top centre of the map extract above), where we spent a lovely long weekend last summer and I thought to have a quick nostalgic visit and an ice cream.
Looking at the time, though, I realised that I could find myself a bit tight for catching my train once I'd had an ice cream stop - especially if the forecast south wind did eventually materialise, which would be directly against me crossing from Pallanza back to Stresa. So I changed course, omitting Pallanza but making a pass by Isola Madre with its beautiful gardens (which we also enjoyed visiting last June).
After that it was just a short, leisurely paddle across the calm waters in the golden early-evening light to reach Stresa in plenty of time to deflate and pack my board for the last time this summer, before ambling up to the railway station with time to spare and unfinished-business feelings well and truly banished. A great end to the 2017 SUP season!
Postscript: The very next day, I cleaned the boards and put them in their winter storage in the basement :)
Type:
StandUpPaddling
Date:
2017-10-28T08:26:10Z
Avg Pace:
12:52/km
Elevation:
290.9
Distance:
16498
Moving time:
12743
Activity id:
1250502633
Strava title:
Paddle from Piedmont to Lunch in Lombardy
Total photo count:
7
Title:
Going Solo on Lago Maggiore
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
1.295
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/s_8l0uXeAp6SmZF6SZojks3aT3qVKHfrRBeL9Jauzss-1024x576.jpg
StreamLatLng:
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