Gotthard


旅程大約已經一半,在時間或地理上而言也如此。這種每日坐在單車上半日的生活很習慣,五點多六點自動起身,七八點出發,中途找超巿買食物,下午三四點到住宿點,出去買晚餐,回去洗衫、充電、過相、寫日記、研究未來行程。
昨日飲了兩罐能量飲品,不知是否如此,竟睡不著。平時一躺下就睡著了,實在太累。Hostel獨立房間的那座樓似是只有我獨佔,聽不到有人出入,晚上和朝早都只有我用廚房。
早上把Uncle Ben飯混入餘下的粟米,再飲包蕃茄湯,改變平日早餐的口味。昨天接待我的hostel男生問我要否加添早餐,CHF10,還沒看清楚餐牌就推掉。
上半場先爬過2046米Oberalp Pass,落住宿點Andermatt擺低行李再上Gotthard Pass。Oberalp沿路沒特別,差不多到頂有火車軌由Matterhorn至Gotthard這樣崎嶇竟有火車,是個奇蹟。瑞士的交通規劃看來精密,今早行走的十多公里,爬升800多米,斜度近乎如一,少有忽上忽落,因此不太需要轉波。而且瑞士的山路鋪裝一流,即使有裂縫或坑洞要填補,完工後平滑非常,輾過時近乎無感。
十時左右已上到Oberalp,非常順利,有個像徵萊茵河源頭的燈塔,與河道在Rotterdam出口的樣式相同。
最靚之黃金位是在坳道的西面,有湖及步行小徑,伸出去之小陸地有間古老石屋,有人散步有人釣魚,氣氛又與一般山坳不同。在這邊餐廳的遊客自然比山坳那邊多幾十倍。
落山時有種氣勢,連續的S形彎的直徑開闢得特別闊,每次180度迴轉都劃過一大片山坡,可感受到山路之美,而且更安全之餘又與急進及隱藏型的髮夾彎風味不同。下到Andermatt之前,高處所見到被群山保護的小鎮也是精采。
如計劃般放低行李上Gotthard,期望太高反而失望,上山路景致普通,最後幾公里有段古老的石砌路是這裡的特色。可能我是由北前往,由南面上的話那段Tremola蛇形石砌路可能較精采。不過連續行這些路太震了,落山也不宜快,見到有掛著行李袋的單車人踩,不知道行李架行完後要否換新。
Gotthard最頂是片大平地,有不少舊建築,那種形狀奇特到像舊旅館的教堂是第一次見,也有一個區域散落一堆石砌建築,不知是否一二戰時的軍事設施。另外還有不太吸引的博物館,也有露天芝士、熱狗及賣旅客精品的小販檔,是個經濟特區。在這麼多山坳中,最旺丁就是這裡。Gotthard的名氣太盛了。https://www.relive.cc/view/1070326179

Type: 
Ride
Date: 
2017-07-06T05:18:15Z
Avg Pace: 
5:25/km
Elevation: 
1620
Distance: 
57177.7
Moving time: 
18581
Activity id: 
1071408595
Strava title: 
晨間騎乘
Total photo count: 
0
Title: 
Gotthard
Summary Polyline: 
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Average speed: 
3.077
Cover image: 
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StreamLatLng: 
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StreamDistances: 
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Comments

Ivy Ho
Wed, 07/12/2017 - 18:28
名氣太盛的地點,很多時都是讓人失望而回。
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