Caput Insulae
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This is the story of how we spent a very wet Tuesday in the tiny hill town of Beli, Croatia - including a short hike along the Roman road, which I'll come to in a bit.
By the time we'd finished dining at the Osteria on the evening of our arrival in Beli, it had started to rain, and we hurried back to our accommodation to fetch the bikes indoors before they got too wet - applying the "ask forgiveness, not permission" principle, having been shown an outdoor spot to keep them - we really didn't want soggy saddles and rusty chains.
It rained all night and got steadily heavier and heavier. When I woke in the night I could hear it hammering down outside, as well as the trickling of surface water down the sloping alleyway outside, and an odd metallic clanging noise which sounded for all the world as though the rainwater were cascading onto the bell of the nearby church. (We later concluded that it was probably the metal cover on one of the village's many wells - one of which was right below our bedroom window, as you can see in the picture.)
By breakfast time there had been no let-up in the rain and the options of going out in it, or staying in, seemed more or less equally uninviting. The holiday house was cute and old - it was like a vertical flat with the kitchen and sitting area at street level, bedroom upstairs and bathroom in the basement - but was also completely unheated, and we didn't see any way to get our clothes dry again if we went out in the rain and got soaked. We'd already resorted to the hair dryer to accelerate the drying of the cycling clothes we'd hand washed on arrival.
We did particularly want to visit the "Eko Centar" once it opened at 10, though - this was set up originally as a base for the conservation initiative for the island's griffon vulture population, but also has very interesting exhibits about the village's local history, and the botany of the immediate area. Luckily, by about 10.30 there seemed to be a weather window and so we headed out.
A quick word about the griffon vultures. (You can find lots more detail online if you're interested.) There is a breeding colony on a particular cliff near Beli - the vultures here are very unusual in that they nest in sea cliffs. Historically the vulture population was sustained by extensive sheep grazing - when a sheep died, they would eat the carcass - but sheep husbandry has collapsed due to demographic changes. The conservation programme encourages people to keep sheep again, provides artificial feeding by leaving out sheep carcasses, and rescues fledglings which crash into the sea while learning to fly - this happens quite a lot, and they drown in 30mins unless someone fishes them out. The centre currently has 5 rescued vultures which will be re-released into the wild in due course.
Above: rescue vultures on CCTV.
Below: the Beli vulture cliff with yet more rain looming.
We never got to see the vultures on their cliff - they were huddling out of the rain, just like us! - but we did see a few in flight, and the 5 in the rescue centre (but only via CCTV!). The information in the local history section was just as fascinating. Tiny, remote Beli (who knew this? - we certainly didn't!) boasts the only intact Roman bridge in the eastern Adriatic. The Roman settlement was called Caput Insulae (head of the island) and was strategically important because of its commanding sea view. (We verified this ourselves later by looking back and finding that we were in line of sight to Beli from just about everywhere on our subsequent travels.) The later history under the Venetians, Hapsburgs, Italian Fascists and Yugoslav Communists was almost equally fascinating.
One of the disappointments of our trip generally was being unable to look inside any of the old village churches as they were all kept locked. We decided there was nothing to be lost by asking the Eko Centar warden whether she knew how we could get access to view the church(es) in Beli - there are at least three in use, even in such a small community, plus several more disused or in ruins. Turns out that Daria (that being her name) is a keyholder of the main parish church, and was willing to make a slot in her busy schedule to open it for us in between closing the Eko Centar at 2, having her lunch and getting to Cres on an errand later.
Before that, though, once we had finished at the Eko Centar we simply HAD to head down the Roman road out of town to see that bridge!
Then, as the rain had completely stopped for a short while, we followed it for another mile or so, until it intersected the modern road, then taking the latter back to our accommodation.
We witnessed the damage being wrought by deer and wild boar - Daria had explained that they have become a real menace, not only destroying the roads and terracing, but also competing with, and in the case of the wild boar actually killing, the local farmers' sheep.
In my previous post I mentioned the sad little village shop, with almost nothing on the shelves, which was there in 1984. Now even that has gone, and the only shopping opportunity is a community shop in the parish office which opens for an hour on Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings. As we were there on a Tuesday, we couldn't shop. We had planned for this and bought supplies in Cres on the way through - including a packet of filled pasta as a reserve hot meal, in case the village's two restaurants turned out to be closed or "unsuitable" (interpret that as you will!). Returning to the cold damp "flat" on a cold damp day, we really fancied hot food for lunch, and so we had the filled pasta drizzled with super tangy Cres olive oil from a small bottle we'd bought - delicious!
After that it was time to meet Daria and view the church with its famous black madonna statue (one of only 4 in Croatia).
Besides the black madonna, the church also features a Venetian glass chandelier!
Not very long after viewing the chuch, it was time to venture back out again in the rain (which had restarted) to the Osteria for a huge platter of cevapcici and chips (a bit like sheek kebab), and not long after that time to head for bed ahead of an early start the next day. Thus ended our day in Beli - about twice as long as we spent there last time!
Type:
Hike
Date:
2017-09-19T10:04:07Z
Avg Pace:
15:59/km
Elevation:
98.9
Distance:
2445.8
Moving time:
2346
Activity id:
1191161557
Strava title:
Caput Insulae
Total photo count:
4
Title:
Caput Insulae
Summary Polyline:
}}irGelrvArCzAfBzJfH~G~Nv@wNb@sLsFmE_HqFbAvDcK|IgFhA{DpC@}A~A
Description:
Roman bridge and Roman road near Beli, Croatia
Average speed:
1.043
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/4ywt5AXwnAVi6I1IJrejL5IQFdf-06lhdmO9Ke9lRyw-1024x680.jpg
StreamLatLng:
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