Breaking my Jinx on the Flüela Pass
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I first cycled over the Flüela Pass, which links Davos with the Engadine valley in eastern Switzerland, on 1st September 2012. It was the first serious alpine pass I had ridden since moving to Switzerland and reviving my passion for cycling, and I rode with my son Peter, which was great fun. Peter was surprised that we stopped at about 14.30 after doing just 43km over the one pass - but that was all I could manage back in those days!
And after that, I didn't ride over it again for almost 6 years, until now. Why not? Read on!
The Flüela is one of two parallel high Alpine passes linking west to east from the Rhine valley to the Engadine (the local name for the valley of the river Inn, which continues downstream into Austria through the famous city of Innsbruck before merging into the Danube). Its more southerly and more famous sibling, though a few metres lower at the summit, is the Albula Pass, known for its remarkably engineered narrow-gauge railway which has been granted UNESCO World Heritage status.
Combining the 2 passes into one ride, out over one and back over the other, makes for a tough but perfectly doable day's ride (even though I didn't think so back in 2012!) and I wanted to do exactly that in 2016 as part of my preparation for riding over the Stelvio Pass (second highest pass in the Alps). Unfortunately my first attempt was thwarted when I had hardly started, when I got a puncture I couldn't fix at the roadside: couldn't get a patch to stick in the hot sunshine, and broke the valve on my spare inner tube when trying to inflate it with my portable pump - I since have acquired a better pump!
Nothing daunted, I set off the very next day to repeat the ride, and this time I made it almost to the top of the Albula Pass before getting another puncture, which I fixed by replacing the tube and carrying on. But before I had finished traversing the Engadine valley to reach the Flüela Pass, yet another puncture struck. Having used both of my spare tubes and lost quite a bit of time doing repairs, I decided it would be too risky to tackle the Flüela and so I abandoned the ride and headed home by train.
(The puncture problem, by the way, turned out to be caused by a defective rim tape, and it was a good thing to have flushed out the cause and corrected it before tackling the Stelvio a couple of weeks later!)
After all that, I felt that my attempts on the Albula-Flüela double were jinxed, and I didn't try it again until today, getting on for 2 years later. It wasn't my first choice of ride, but many of the high passes have still not yet re-opened after the winter, and then there was the weather to take into account too. With thunderstorms forecast from 16.00, I was going to have to press on with the ride.
No qualms about the weather when I got off the train at 09.00 at Filisur. This is the view looking up the Albula valley towards the pass.
I loved the ride up the Albula. The morning was sunny but fresh-feeling, not too hot. Near Filisur station a cuckoo was calling (only the third I've heard this year), and further up the pass the marmots were whistling on the mountainsides. Both the bike and I were going well. I stopped to eat my sandwich sitting on a low stone wall with a view of the "model railway set" of the little red trains popping out of the tunnels, scurrying across the bridges, disappearing again and then reappearing lower down as the tunnels spiral around.
But even before I reached the summit shortly before noon, the clouds were already building above the mountains - as you can see in the photo - and I knew I was going to have to get a move on if I wasn't going to be thwarted yet again from continuing over the Flüela. I only stopped long enough at the summit for the obligatory selfie and to pull on my windproof jacket, before hurling the bike into the descent.
At the foot of the pass at La Punt, all was tranquil and sunny and I stopped to photograph the wildflower meadow with the Inn river winding its way into the distance. At this point the clouds looked quite benign, and the feel of the weather seemed too fresh for thunderstorms. Shows how wrong you can be!
My route took me straight along the valley, passing through pretty little villages and towns with cobbled streets and quaint buildings, like Zuoz (next photo).
To save time, I had decided to stick to the road rather than use the signposted cycle routes which follow adjacent tracks and trails. However, I persuaded myself to change my mind when the roadworks on the main road became annoying, and then had to turn back when the track I was on turned out to be closed because it rejoined the main road right in the middle of the one of those roadworks sections! I probably lost about half an hour to that detour, which proved to be critical later...
By the time I finally started up the Flüela Pass, I was definitely flagging, stressed by the weather clearly closing in and not wanting to have to give up on the ride yet again, and really not enjoying myself any more. You can see from my speed graph that, whilst I actually got faster on the upper section of the Albula Pass, I got slower further up the Flüela. I'm not quite sure why - the distance and elevation stats for the ride are not huge compared to some of the stuff I've been doing - my best guess is that it was due to lack of altitude acclimatisation, as this was my first ride above 2000m this year.
In my last ride story, I talked about the stunning accuracy of the weather forecast when the rain started at the predicted time, to the minute. This time, the rain was nearly an hour early, which meant that - just like last time - I got wet during the last half hour or so of the ascent. Don't be deceived by the patch of blue sky in the summit selfie above - that was looking back the way I had come; ahead on the side descending towards Davos, the clouds looked decidedly threatening, along with flashes of lightning!
Then, when a friendly fellow cyclist who had overtaken me just before the summit offered to take a better photo for me, my phone crashed and took about 15mins to restart - it's been doing that quite a lot lately (I have ordered a new battery). I didn't want to lose any of the ride data, so I waited and had a snack, all the while watching the storm brewing further down the pass road.
When I started down, I briefly thought I had got away with it, but no. I could see the rain sweeping towards me up the rocky valley, then I got into the edge of it, then in no time at all it was absolutely torrential, washing in torrents across the tarmac and making me concerned about aquaplaning in the hairpin bends - or some other vehicle aquaplaning into me! Also bearing in mind that I was still unconvinced about the wet-weather grip of my Schwalbe G-One Allround tyres; but I think I'm convinced now, as they passed the test without a single slip or skid!
The top of the pass road is in a bare rocky valley without any possibility of shelter whatsoever for several kilometres, so I had no option but to keep going, even when the rain turned to hail and battered my bare legs and face.
After a few minutes the rain and hail eased off, and it wasn't long before I was thankfully rolling into Davos Dorf station - where I found that I had just missed a train; so I decided to continue on to Klosters, where there are more trains - and got into another torrential shower on the way there, but by that time I was just laughing it off. On Klosters station I sat down, took my shoes off and squeezed out my socks. I'd just missed a train there, too!
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2018-06-05T07:05:10Z
Avg Pace:
3:57/km
Elevation:
2832
Distance:
96977.8
Moving time:
22970
Activity id:
1618804868
Strava title:
Third time lucky on the Albula and Flüela Passes
Total photo count:
9
Title:
Breaking my Jinx on the Flüela Pass
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
https://www.relive.cc/view/1618804868
My last 2 attempts to do this ride (going back 2 years) were thwarted by punctures!
Average speed:
4.222
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/i-oBJ1UcngQwp-JJAaTOHYiRanjYHzlqBxeV-gSwR68-1024x602.jpg
StreamLatLng:
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