Passing the Triple Test
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I was keen to repeat one of last year's best rides using my new bike, to see if it really was faster, easier and more fun than on the old one. Short answer: yes, yes and yes! Long answer: keep reading...
Spring has been late arriving this year, with a lot of plants and trees coming into leaf/flower later than usual, and the snow persisting in the mountains. I've been keeping a close eye on the Swiss passes status website to see which passes were open, or expected to open soon. The Furka and Grimsel passes, part of today's route, only re-opened the previous day. As for the St Gotthard: well, the website said "open, normal conditions". That'll teach me to read the fine print!
The early-morning train was crowded with cyclists and we were comparing notes about our planned rides for the day. One group was going to the Pragelpass. "You know that's closed, don't you?" I said. "It's OK", piped up a cyclist from another group, "I was there last week. It has roadworks but you'll get through just fine." Two young lads were getting off at Göschenen to ride over the Furka and Grimsel passes, and another guy was planning to do the Gotthard-Furka-Grimsel triple, just like me (but probably about twice as fast!)
About half a dozen of us got off at Airolo, the southern jumping-off point for the St Gotthard Pass, and somebody was overheard to say that the Tremola road was still closed. (That's the old, cobbled road ascending the south side of the St Gotthard Pass - an absolute cycling classic, much more scenic and with much less traffic than the modern motor road.) A discussion ensued and the consensus was to try it anyway. I laughingly said that as I was sure to be the slowest, if I didn't meet them all coming back down again then I would know it was OK!
At Airolo the sky was blue and the breeze was warm as I started up the ascent. I didn't want to hang around, though as there were afternoon thunderstorms forecast for Meiringen, where my ride was due to end, and I didn't really fancy a drenching like the one I got on the Flüela Pass the other day!
As I climbed higher, heaps of snow remaining at the roadside, along with quite a lot of debris which had been swept into piles at the roadside but not fully cleared, gave warning of what lay ahead. The barrier on the Tremola road was, indeed, down - although I fully intended to carry on past it.
While I was taking this photo, I became aware of a man sitting in a parked grey 4-wheel-drive who was gesticulating at me. Great, I thought - the highways authority is here to stop me. But not a bit of it - as I walked over to see what he wanted, it became clear he was indicating for me just to carry on. To stay safe on outdoor activities it's always vital to heed the advice of locals, so I duly ducked my bike under the barrier and off I went. My low-pressure tubeless tyres made smooth work of the cobblestone surface. I had to weave my way around a lot of tree and stone debris, which hadn't been cleared as the road hadn't officially re-opened yet, and in places the snowdrifts were still encroaching more than halfway across the road. (You can also see this if you look carefully in the middle distance in the photo at the top of this article.)
After a while I came to several hairpin bends where the snow was still right across the apex of each bend, and I had to walk across/through it.
It was easy enough to get across, but I did begin to worry whether the conditions would be worse further up the pass, as I was barely halfway up by this point. However, after a few more bends there was a snow-blower machine parked at the side of the road (you can just see it at the edge of the photo at the top) and the next few bends were clear; I assumed that this was as far as they had got by close of business on Friday, clearing the road from the top down, and the rest of the way up would be clear - which it was.
The weather, and the view, at the top of the St Gotthard Pass were glorious:
I didn't hang around for long, though, mindful of that weather forecast. For the descent to Hospental I stuck to the road, unlike the ride a year ago when I did part of it on the mountain bike trail. This time, the road wasn't really busy yet - the main pass road only having been officially declared open a few days before - and I was keen to save time. Likewise, I stayed on the road from Hospental to Realp (foot of the Furka Pass), eschewing the mountain bike trail which gave me a puncture on last year's ride.
The Furka Pass was basically a cruise, albeit a long, steep, hot one. I enjoyed the ever-widening views of the valley back towards the St Gotthard, and the smaller narrower valley directly below the road with its tiny steam train crawling along. (Before anyone corrects me: the photo below shows the same train but on the other side of the pass / tunnel, looking towards the Grimsel pass which you can see ascending on the right of the shot.)
Furka pass road and tiny steam train (centre of shot)
There were more motorbikes than on the St Gotthard, and a few coaches (a bit awkward on that narrow road), and even one Slovenian-registered articulated lorry which I'm sure was totally out of order on multiple different grounds. Where are the Swiss Police when you really need them?!
I didn't stop for a "summit selfie", because I have at least two on this pass already, because there was a queue at the pass sign, because I was still going well, and because the best view is a little further on anyway. A friendly fellow-cyclist called Frederick took this snap for me (that's his bike on the left of the photo).
I stopped for a quick snack and then pitched into the descent. My next target was the Grimsel Pass - the flight of hairpin bends you can see beyond my left arm in the photo - you can also see the dark clouds building above the pass, and I wanted to beat those clouds to Meiringen at all costs!
Just over an hour later I was indeed at the top of the Grimsel and - oh, woe! - my phone crashed as I was using the mapping on it to give directions to a Belgian cyclist who had also arrived at the top and was unsure of her next route. She had planned to descend to Ulrichen on this mountain bike trail, which appeared as a road on the map she was using:
No way (literally). I was able to tell her all about it as I had in fact researched that route myself, considering it for today's ride, but had decided that it was very likely still to have snow on it and so I would shelve it for another ride later in the summer.
Anyway, my phone was well and truly crashed, and what was worse, once it rebooted, Strava didn't recover and resume the ride as it usually does, but started a fresh one. I consoled myself with the thought that I could at least log a nice fast descent into Meiringen, and headed off down.
After a couple more photos, though, the phone crashed again and this time apparently irretrieveably, so I shoved it back in my pocket, ignored it, and concentrated on enjoying the ride. This amazing gorge beside the pass road, with its twin merging waterfalls from left and right, was the last successful photo:
Astonishingly, later when I revived my phone while waiting for the train at Meiringen, Strava did indeed recover the ride as far as the Grimsel Pass. Not the whole day's ride, but at least includes nearly all the elevation gain for the day.
The data from the ride also confirmed that nearly all my segment times were significantly faster than the equivalent ride last year, and yet I arrived at the end point feeling less tired; definitely a win-win! And I beat the thunderstorms, too.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2018-06-09T07:16:05Z
Avg Pace:
5:14/km
Elevation:
2634.6
Distance:
58614
Moving time:
18391
Activity id:
1627417520
Strava title:
Road closed ➡ better adventure!
Total photo count:
8
Title:
Passing the Triple Test
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
https://www.relive.cc/view/1627417520
Phone crashed and lost the last 30km or so down to Meiringen
Average speed:
3.187
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/3JF6AAM8AsgD7NniWLacAEW9FU9gpMkd4rMC_Wycum4-576x1024.jpg
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