Val Viola roughstuff crossing - with a puncture and only one working brake
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The moment I saw "Val Viola" on the map, I knew I had to go there! This is because I'm a keen musician and I absolutely love the viola and its players - although (or maybe because!) they are the constant butt of unkind jokes! I also found a Passo del Corno, which I traversed in 2016 but haven't written up - my own instrument being the French horn (corno).
The Pass da Val Viola lies high in the mountains (2489m) on the Swiss/Italian border. There's no road over it, only a rough trail which is officially designated for both hiking and mountain biking, forming part of the Trans-Altarezia Bike trail. My day's route is shown in the map below:
It felt a bit like cheating getting off the train at Ospizio Bernina, which at 2253m is the highest station on the Rhaetian Rail network - however, I was going to be doing plenty of climbing later to earn my supper, and it was by far the most convenient station to start my planned trip. So I began with a swooping descent through the hairpin bends of the Bernina Pass, though I had to go rather carefully because my back brake wasn't working very well, which I had only found out the previous evening when I took the bike out for a shakedown test of my touring load, and had been able to adjust it slightly, but not enough to achieve full braking force.
Soon I reached the tiny village of Sfazu, where the mountain bike trail leaves the main road, initially following a gravel road as far as the village of Camp. This is also in fact a "main road" of sorts, serving a number of small villages, and even has a Post Bus service - as I discovered when the bus overtook me in a cloud of dust!
After the bus terminus in Camp, the track immediately went singletrail, and not being an expert mountain bike rider, I was only able to ride about 20% of the trail from there to the pass, about 400m of elevation gain. The terrain was beautiful, though - passing first through woods, then past a little lake "Lagh da Val Viola", then in short steep zigzags past a cascading stream before opening into a high, wide valley; all the while with spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding mountains.
As an experiment, I had lugged my Nikon SLR with me along with a mini tripod, in order to try to take some selfies of me riding the bike.
Not long after taking the last of the above photos, as I was manhandling the bike up the next steep rocky section, there was an explosive hiss from the front tyre, and I knew I was in trouble. First I tried turning the damaged section to the bottom, where the tubeless sealant pools, in the hope that it would self seal - no luck with that. Good opportunity to try out the tubeless repair kit for the first time - that's not something you can really practise at home, unless you feel like deliberately making holes in your tyres! At least I had good weather for it, and no time pressure, as I had plenty of time in reserve to reach my overnight stop.
As I was wrestling the repair "string" into the hole in the tyre - not as simple as the repair kit instructions would have you believe - there was a loud pop as the tyre bead disengaged from the rim. This put paid to any chance of success with the tubeless repair - my on-board pump doesn't push enough air volume to re-seat the bead - so out came the weapon of last resort: an inner tube to fit inside the "tubeless" tyre. When installing it, I was surprised to find that the tyre was completely dry of sealant - the rear tyre, installed at the same time by the same mechanic, was awash with the stuff when I took it off about a week ago. Explains why the puncture wouldn't self seal!
Onwards and upwards then to the pass - which was very beautiful, with another little lake, and gentians in flower.
Almost immediately after the pass, I was onto a rideable trail, though initially very steep and stony, requiring great care with only one working brake - the rear having pretty much completely given up the ghost by this point! Then it was about an hour on a steadily descending gravel track to Arnoga.
I fnished my day by following the road down to Bormio - lots of potholes to avoid! - and then, the sting in the tail, 13km with 500m of ascent up the Gavia Pass road to Santa Caterina Valfurva, where I had booked accommodation for the night intending to continue over the Gavia and Mortirolo Passes next day ... which is another story!
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2018-06-15T08:42:17Z
Avg Pace:
5:10/km
Elevation:
1769.5
Distance:
61322.8
Moving time:
18996
Activity id:
1640375224
Strava title:
Val Viola roughstuff crossing
Total photo count:
8
Title:
Val Viola roughstuff crossing - with a puncture and only one working brake
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
3.228
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/XFW_Cem11nibJ3wG2LduQ8w_7nCj-yBFD515X5osKDY-1024x576.jpg
StreamLatLng:
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