Day 1: Col de la Lombarde: from sea level to 2350m

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The story begins the day before, when John and I flew separately to Nice with our bikes.  Here's the "Devil" being prepped at Zurich Airport.

John arrived hours before me and got everything organised at our Airbnb. The bike went back together nicely after the flight. Only two things were less than perfect:
1. I accidentally left my favourite bike water bottle at the airport.
2. According to the forecast, we had chosen to start our tour on the only rainy day in a week of unbroken sunshine.

Next morning, we were on the road by 8 and the weather was cloudy but not too bad.

We fought our way through the rush-hour traffic and roadworks back to the airport, where we got onto the cycle track across the bridge over the river Var, just above its mouth into the Med.

The slog through the outskirts of Nice and along the main road inland alongside the Var was just that - a slog.

In a little over an hour, though, the traffic eased off as we got into the beginnings of mountainous terrain and the valley closed in to form deep rugged gorges. The clouds looked quite threatening.

Our route followed first the river Var and then its tributary the Tinée, which was to be our companion all the way up the the Col de la Lombarde. This photo is the Tinée just above its confluence with the Var.

As I took that photo, the first drops of rain fell - just as I was beginning to think we might have avoided it. It was mere drizzle at first, but soon began to fall steadily. We stopped for coffee and pain au chocolat at a bakery/café where the grumpy proprietor wouldn't let us put our bikes on the decking out of the rain, even though there were no other customers there. 
The rain became torrential. Suddenly, mixed with the water flying off my front tyre, I saw more opaque white blobs which could only mean one thing - tubeless sealant escaping from a puncture. (Punctures always happen in the rain - right?!) After a short while the sealant leak stopped, which could mean one of two things: either the sealant had done its job, or all of it had leaked out. I stopped and checked the tyre, which was a bit soft, so I pumped it. As I bent over the pump, the rain on my back redoubled like a fire hose, and the water in the gutter I was standing in overflowed my cycling shoes and soaked my socks. Great start to the tour! 
I rode on and caught up with John sheltering under a rock overhang at the side of the road. We discussed whether to abandon the pass ride, look for accommodation in the next village, and resume in the morning.
The darkest hour precedes the dawn; the wettest hour precedes the sun. The rain eased up, we resumed riding, and the weather continued to clear until by the time we reached Isola, start point of the pass climb proper, the sun was out. We rode through the pretty village centre and found a bench in the sun to sit and dry out and eat our sandwiches. Even better - my front tyre hadn't gone down again.

I'm notoriously slow uphill, especially with panniers on, so John went ahead at his own pace (about twice as fast as mine) up the Col de la Lombarde.  Meanwhile I trundled my way up gently, enjoying the warm sun on my back, and the views of the Tinée river, gradually morphing into a tumbling mountain torrent.

Here are a couple of views taken near the top, where the marmots were whistling on the stony mountainside.


At the summit, an obliging German motorist took my "summit selfie" for me.

The view down on the Italian side was fabulous. You can see how the weather had transformed itself!

Soon I was descending it as fast as I dared, to catch up with John who was waiting for me in the little town of Vinadio at the bottom. It was exhilarating descent on a narrow but mostly well-surfaced road, through innumerable hairpin bends interspersed with straighter sections where the road was able to follow the valley.  An interesting feature of this part of the Alps was the proliferation of laburnum trees - you can see their gleaming yellow flowers in this picture - which I have never seen in the wild before.

Vinadio is an interesting little place with lots of fortifications - must have been strategically important, controlling the routes to two cross-border passes. We had time for a short walk round after dinner.

Type: 
Ride
Workout_type: 
default
Date: 
2018-06-28T06:00:37Z
Avg Pace: 
3:49/km
Elevation: 
3852.7
Distance: 
121606
Moving time: 
27887
Activity id: 
1668022330
Strava title: 
Day 1: Col de la Lombarde - sea level to 2350m
Total photo count: 
12
Title: 
Day 1: Col de la Lombarde: from sea level to 2350m
Summary Polyline: 
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Average speed: 
4.361
Language: 
English
Cover image: 
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