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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland

Fixing a broken chain, and finding coffee in Beer


Colin, my warmshowers.org host of the previous night, rode the first few km with me as far as Peak Hill (photo below is the view from there), and his parting shot as he turned for home was "I expect you'll be walking up Soldier's Hill on the other side".

So - after passing through Sidmouth, where the sea was bizarrely red - I was straining every sinew to get up that hill and prove him wrong, and had almost made it to the top when ... the chain broke.

I'm ashamed to admit that my first thought was "I wonder if there's a bike shop in Sidmouth?" - then I remembered that my multi-tool includes a chain riveter, and it was in fact the work of only a few minutes to remove the 2 broken links and reinstall the chain. Cleaning my hands of sticky grey chain grease took somewhat longer...!

Colin had helped me to plan a route the night before, which was a huge help, although I did deviate from it in a couple of places as I'm more gravel-oriented than he is. One of those deviations was along Northern Lane, leading to Branscombe, which was so overhung with brambles and other vegetation that I was forced to ride down the rough grass strip in the middle!

At length (actually at about 10.30) I made it to the coastal resort village of Beer, where serried ranks of deck chairs were set out on the shingle beach.

But I didn't have time for sun lounging, and it wasn't beer I was after but coffee, to re-invigorate me after the morning's exertions. I eventually found take-away coffee in Woozie's Deli, which was the first place I've been where my collapsible silicone mug wasn't met with raving enthusiasm. The server was grumpy when he accidentally squished it and spilt some.


Duly refreshed, I tackled the next hill over to the next resort, Seaton, where I had to take a cliché beach hut photo!

Yet another steep climb out of Seaton/Axmouth (I was getting a bit bored of them by now!), but then the route struck inland, heading north on a ruler-straight and beautifully resurfaced road through Trinity Hill nature reserve.
Away from the coast now, the route turned east again and undulated through tiny lanes with virtually no traffic, through picturesque villages, woods and cornfields. The weather was perfect for cycling, being sunny but not too hot, fresh-feeling after the rain of the last couple of days, and such breeze as there was was from the west, helping me along. The only thing lacking was a shop or a country pub where I could get lunch, as it was now quite a while since the Beer coffee snack!
Eventually, on the stroke of 2pm, I came to the village of Powerstock and the Three Horseshoes pub, where I was relieved to see a sign advertising food from 12.00 to 2.30! (I was afraid that they would close at 2 and I would have just missed out.) I was the only customer and it took a while for the barman to appear - but the view from the pub terrace was lovely, and the burger and cider were delicious once I got them!


It could be the most peaceful place I've ever stopped for lunch! They also do B&B - tempted by the idea of basing myself there for a few days with my bike sometime.
[Late breaking edit: it turns out, on looking at my old cycling log books, that I was last at the Three Horseshoes on August 16th, 1983, having a cider with my future wife Caroline!]
Right after lunch it was time to tackle the last serious climb of the day, up to the Iron Age hill fort at Eggardon Hill. You can see the earthworks in this photo.

Here's the last steep part of that climb:

And here's the panoramic view from Eggardon Hill to the north:

Then there was a long, fast, mostly downhill cruise, through cornfields, past an amazingly gnarly oak tree, and through the evocatively-named hamlet of Wynford Eagle.

When I got down to the river Frome at Tollerford, I could have crossed to Maiden Newton and carried on towards Dorchester on the A356 road, but decided to stay on the west bank where the route is marked as national cycle route 26. It's peaceful and traffic-free but is a curious mix of quiet tarmac lanes, gravel or concrete farm tracks, and one short section of singletrail which was almost completely overgrown.

I arrived in Dorchester in good time for my Airbnb check in, having had a really enjoyable and nostalgic ride. I used to live in Dorchester over 30 years ago and have hardly been back since!

Type: 
Ride
Workout_type: 
default
Date: 
2018-07-31T07:23:26Z
Avg Pace: 
3:34/km
Elevation: 
1641.9
Distance: 
88578.9
Moving time: 
18993
Activity id: 
1740361601
Strava title: 
Ah, hills of Devon and Dorset! You might break my chain, but you can't break me!
Total photo count: 
15
Title: 
Fixing a broken chain, and finding coffee in Beer
Summary Polyline: 
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Description: 
Thank goodness I opted for the more expensive multi-tool with chain riveter included!
Average speed: 
4.664
Language: 
English
Cover image: 
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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland
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