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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland

The Dusty Drove-roads of Dorset


This 3-day mini-tour (today is day 2) is a real nostalgia trip for me. I lived in Dorset for a while in the 1980s, and I spent every spare minute out cycling. I used to especially enjoy the green lanes and ancient drove roads, which criss-cross the county as well as spanning the boundaries into neighbouring Wiltshire, Somerset and Devon.
It was only a short hop from Dorchester to my next overnight in Corfe Castle, so I extended it into a great big zigzag to make a decent day's ride.

I left Dorchester heading north on a tolerably quiet B-road, but within half an hour was turning off onto the first roughstuff section of the day. Initially it looked unpromising, with a rusty barrier blocking the track, and loads of litter. As is usually the case, though, the litter disappeared beyond 100 yards from the road, and then I was completely alone - I didn't meet another person for well over an hour - in a wide open landscape on the trail skirting the edge of a stubble field of mown wheat. (Photo at the top of this article.)
It was as though I had stepped back 30 years in a time warp. The landscape the same, the skies the same, the same crops, the same tracks, even the same bike (grandfather's axe fallacy notwithstanding!)
I only noticed two significant changes, both arguably for the better:
1. In the 1980s that stubble field would probably have been on fire, and I'd have been choking on the smoke, if I could get through at all. Thankfully, stubble burning has long since been banned!
2. A few of the fields have been given over from arable production to photovoltaic arrays.
My route followed field and farm tracks all the way up to Dorsetshire Gap, which I'd been inspired to visit after reading this article.
Below: Approaching Dorsetshire Gap, literally across a field!


Above: the signpost and the visitors' book box.
Below: An ancient "hollow way" leading down from Dorsetshire Gap.
Soon after Dorsetshire Gap, I returned to tarmac and swung by the summit of Bulbarrow Hill, with its commanding view northwards over Somerset, before turning south again and passing through the chocolate-box-pretty village of Milton Abbas - complete with bright blue VW camper van!
After a stop for coffee and cake at Milton Mills - which besides the tea rooms has a quirky craft shop selling works by local artists and handworkers - I was soon into a complete change of scenery and vegetation, and my second roughstuff section of the day, crossing the sandy heathland between Briantspuddle and Moreton.

There's a wide, shallow section of river here which is officially a ford for vehicles - which I eschewed in favour of the long, narrow footbridge! - and is obviously a favourite swimming place for the locals. (For personal privacy reasons, I avoided getting most of them in the photo.)
Then, more nostalgia, riding part of my old commute route along the edge of Winfrith Technology Centre, and peeking through the fence at the Steam Generating Heavy Water Reactor (SGHWR) - now decommissioned and due to be completely dismantled over the next few years.
An underwhelming lunch of cold chicken & chorizo pie followed by weak coffee, from the "award-winning Winfrith Newburgh Stores", preceded a slog against the headwind down to the tourist honeypot of Lulworth Cove (another nostalgia venue!)
The coast path along the clifftop was closed due to erosion, so instead I manhandled my bike around the entire curve of the shingle beach and up the steps to join the path at the far end - thinking that the hard work would be done at this point and I'd have a relatively easy gravel trundle - my third and final roughstuff section of the day - along the military range roads (which are open to the public throughout August) to my destination. How wrong one can be!
I'm sure this rule wasn't in effect back when I lived there. Officially, I interpreted it as meaning that I'm allowed to push/carry my bike. Unofficially, almost all the paths were either too steep or too narrow (or both!) for me to consider riding anyway, including one vertiginous ascent of about 200m where the path was hewn into narrow steps and I could only manage about 20 of them at a time before changing shoulders for the bike (while trying not to lose my grip on the bike, or look down too much and lose my balance).
Here's looking up at that daunting slope, from the bottom. You can just make out several successive pairs of yellow marker posts guiding the traveller skywards!

And here's looking down at the trail from partway up (this was one of the easier bits).

The reward, though, was a continuous sequence of stunning views along the coast, with blue skies, turquoise water and white cliffs, all the way to the Isle of Portland far to the west.




And despite the slow going, I wasn't late at my destination, arriving more or less simultaneously with my hosts getting home from work - in perfect time for a shower and a refreshing Dorset Conker gin & tonic before dinner!

Type: 
Ride
Workout_type: 
default
Date: 
2018-08-01T07:27:15Z
Avg Pace: 
4:52/km
Elevation: 
1214.8
Distance: 
72341.7
Moving time: 
21118
Activity id: 
1742744427
Strava title: 
The Dusty Drove-roads of Dorset
Total photo count: 
17
Title: 
The Dusty Drove-roads of Dorset
Summary Polyline: 
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Description: 
Including some crazy hike-a-bike along the incredibly steep coast path
Average speed: 
3.426
Language: 
English
Cover image: 
https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/In6JJMWOlItXnXE_rpN-NhMbz5-tI3yZm0fJMRgyuNY-1024x576.jpg
StreamLatLng: 
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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland
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