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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland

A Precision Night Raid on the Grossglockner


When it comes to starting bike tours at a crazy time of night, I have "form"!
Here's how this latest ride came about.  Summer rapidly drawing to a close, along with the looming threat of being back in 9-5 work, have given an extra sense of urgency to completing my goal of riding all the highest 10 road passes in Europe in one calendar year. The Grossglockner High Alpine Road - ranked no.7 - was one of only two still missing.
I would dearly have loved to have included the Grossglockner in a longer tour, but neither time nor money permit this right now, so my thoughts turned to doing it as a day raid, between back-to-back overnight trains. One of the possible train connections involved a 3-hour layover, from 2am to 5am, in Saalfelden - only 14km north of Zell am See, my originally intended start point. So, why not cycle those 14km instead of hanging around? No-brainer, really.
And here I am on Saalfelden station, having just got off the 01.57 arriving train.

Also, I worked out that if I were reasonably quick up the mountain (by my slow standards) I should just be in time to see the sunrise at the top!

In between, it was very, VERY dark INDEED.

I stopped for a snack under the street lamps of one of the few villages I passed through. Then, I stopped away from habitation, turned off my bike lights, and spent a few minutes lost in awe at the display of stars and the Milky Way, with absolutely no light pollution.

I was able to pass through the toll gate checkpoint, which only opens to motor traffic at 5am, a good hour earlier than that, and then I really was on my own. I spent the whole time on high alert for sight or sound of wild animals (wild boar being my biggest worry), but encountered none.
I'd promised myself a second snack stop as soon as there was enough daylight to see by, and quite suddenly we were at that point.


This was at about 05.20, and I was glad to be off the road because suddenly I was passed by a swarm of at least 20 motorbikes, who must have been actually waiting in the toll gates for the 5am release. After that, the road returned to emptiness and peace.
Also at the snack stop, I "layered up", because the night had been getting colder and the increasing altitude made it colder still. The thermometer at Hochtor, when I finally got there, showed 6.3°C, and that was after the sun had been shining on that side of the mountain for a good couple of hours.

Soon after my snack stop, the sunrise began to catch the tips of the surrounding peaks, and I watched the glow gradually extending downwards towards the valley.

It was already on the rock outcrop at Fuscher Törl (the first, false summit on the pass road before the higher Hochtor) and creeping down towards the road as I stormed up the last couple of hundred metres' ascent - indeed, I was just too late to catch the actual sunrise at the top: it was already a few degrees above the horizon by the time I crested the ridge. (Photos above.)

When I got there, instead of immediately turning right to continue via Fuscher Törl to Hochtor, I turned left up the spur road - 1.4km of cobbled surface at 12% gradient - leading to Edelweissspitze, the highest point on the Grossglockner Road at 2571m. A real sting in the tail of what was already a long ascent - some 1800m from bottom to top - but well worth the effort for the stunning sunrise views in all directions! And the cobbles were FUN, especially on my new tyres!

Above: looking down the cobbled hairpins leading to Edelweissspitze. In the distance you can see the road leading to Hochtor. The Hochtor tunnel entrance is in the patch of shade on the ridge, just left of centre. The sunny nearer tunnel entrance is the "Mittleres Tor" which the road passes through on the way.


Above: at Edelweissspitze. Being a one-way spur road, the 2571m altitude doesn't count for the purposes of pass height ranking; that is classified as the 2504m Hochtor, highest point of the actual pass crossing.
Below: view back down the valley on the north side - the way I came up - with mist hanging over the Zeller See.

Earlier, on the way up to Fuscher Törl, I had even managed to find the exact spot to re-create one of the photos we found in my late father's archive of negatives, from his continental motoring adventures in the 1950s!

The transit onward from Edelweissspitze to Hochtor took me just a bit over half an hour, which meant that by the time I'd done summit selfies with the help of a friendly French motorist, it was 08.30 and the staff were just arriving to open the cafe next to the tunnel entrance. With my double espresso I had Topfenstrudel, which has a filling resembling cheesecake.

I needed the sustenance, as (unusually for me) I had woefully under-provisioned for this trip. I'd also been glad earlier to find the station buffet still open, and serving takeaway pizza slices, at Wörgl where I had to change trains. They stay open until 2am, seven nights a week - even though the last train (mine!) leaves at half past midnight.

After refuelling, the descent of the sunny south side was great fun, with big wide hairpins, perfect road surface, and still almost no traffic. Tourists all enjoying a leisurely breakfast, I assume, apart from those maverick 5am motorcyclists!
I didn't descend all the way to the village of Heiligenblut, with its picture-postcard tall slender church; instead, I turned left onto a beautiful (but potholed) minor road which starts high on the valley side - left hand side of the valley in the photo below - and gradually descends to meet the valley floor several km further on.



Once I did eventually reach the valley, my fears about the road along it were confirmed - it's basically an unimproved 1970s-era country road which is way too narrow for the current volume and speed of  traffic. At the earliest opportunity, I diverted off it onto the local "R8" cycle trail - which I hadn't known about in advance - which follows the same valley, mostly as a riverside path, shady and picturesque and screened from the traffic noise.

I was able to make good progress down the cycle trail, which was mostly smooth tarmac with just a few short gravel sections. It did twist and turn more compared to the road, but I wasn't under time pressure (I eventually caught my train with an hour and a half to spare) and I was happy to have a safer and more pleasant route.
The cycle trail routing let me down, though, further on after the small town of Obervellach. It stopped following the river bank, and instead lurched crazily from side to side of the wide valley, wasting both distance and height, as it repeatedly climbed some way up each valley side before zooming down again, across the river and up the other side, like a deranged oversized half-pipe. I passed a young American couple with huge panniers, stopped at the bottom of one of these climbs and practically in tears at the prospect of toiling up it. Like me, they had probably assumed that the route would be downhill all the way as it followed the river!
I decided I could do better with my own freelance routing, even just with mobile phone mapping, so I abandoned the signed route for most of the rest of the way to Spittal-Milstättersee station - eventually picking up a different cycle route, R1, for the last bit into town.
You can probably guess how I spent the hour and a half until my train. This is, after all, a mandatory part of any trip to Austria!

Now, there remains only the Col de la Bonette, in the French Alps, to complete my collector card...

Type: 
Ride
Workout_type: 
default
Date: 
2018-08-16T00:06:59Z
Avg Pace: 
3:39/km
Elevation: 
3540.5
Distance: 
158161
Moving time: 
34655
Activity id: 
1776071692
Strava title: 
Night Ride and Sunrise
Total photo count: 
12
Title: 
A Precision Night Raid on the Grossglockner
Summary Polyline: 
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Description: 
Cue sound track by Sibelius!
Average speed: 
4.564
Language: 
English
Cover image: 
https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/tWQsIeAaHqh9Bpq7Voy_FZrVEXNheCjTLb5zZW5256M-1024x576.jpg
StreamLatLng: 
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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland
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