Let's ease into this gently, he said
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This was day 1 of my "acclimatisation tour" - the objective being to get some cycling at altitude before going on to more extreme heights next week. Coming from living near sea level at Berlin, the idea was to start gently, not going above 2000m on day 1, and with a relatively short, mostly tarmac route.
Today's route was basically the easy half - and in reverse direction - of this ride which I did last year: https://storyteller.fit/story/3876 The Zeinisjoch pass was one of my absolute favourite rides of last year and I was curious to see how I liked it in the uphill direction!
First there was the small matter of an early morning flight from Berlin and reassembling the bike at Zurich Airport. Then by train to Bludenz, my start point (in Austria), which I reached about 13:00. I was slightly nervous about the thunderstorms forecast for 1500-1800 - exactly the time I was due to be on the mountain. There were, indeed, a few drops of rain in the air already as I set off from Bludenz station, but it didn't really get going and kept on alternating with sunny spells. I preferred the raindroppy version as it felt much fresher!
The route up the valley from Bludenz follows a well-marked and mostly well-surfaced bike path. The villages are real Austrian cliché stuff: tall church spires with a backdrop of distant mountains.
I hadn't really thought through my feeding strategy for the day - the sandwich I'd bought at Zurich Airport and eaten on the train seemed like a long time ago, and an energy bar only provided a very short-term fix. The blackboard outside an Italian restaurant declaring "HOT FOOD ALL DAY 10-24H" was a temptation I couldn't resist, although at first I thought they were kidding as the place was deserted - I was the only customer and the staff were busy with their paperwork. I plonked myself under a big umbrella on the terrace and ordered canneloni. Then the rain started, pattering loudly on the umbrella! I hauled my bike into shelter beside my table - I was the only customer so nobody minded - and by the time I'd finished eating, the rain was over too and the sun was back out again. Talk about lucky timing!
To reach the Zeinisjoch road you have to pass the tollgate for the Silvretta Hochalpenstrasse - a posh modern tourist road - and go straight on at the second hairpin (without making the hairpin turn). From the signage you can tell straight away that it's going to be my sort of road:
I was nervous about the "Güterweg" bit, though (it means "goods road") and in fact not 30 seconds after passing these signs I met a huge lorry coming the other way and had to get right off the road to avoid it.
Apart from that lorry, though - I encountered only 3 other vehicles on the whole ascent - the pass road was just as pretty and just as deserted as I remembered it. I'm sure that this is the exact same photogenic wooden building which I stopped to photograph last time as well!
It's very much off the radar for cyclists, though - once again I didn't meet a single other one - they are all missing out big time! I assume that the road is too steep & narrow for the racing bike fraternity; not rough enough for the mountain bikers; and hasn't been discovered by/marketed to the e-bikers yet. My own style of route planning occupies the cusp between all those three!
The effort to get to the top - there were no gradient signs, but on my estimate there were several sections over 20% - was well rewarded by lovely views of the little lake at the top, with its tiny island glowing in the evening sunshine.
Even though this was planned as a road route, I couldn't keep myself away from the gravel track round the left hand side of the lake (the tarmac road goes round the right). The "not the Matterhorn" photo at the top of this post was taken a bit further along the gravel.
Then it was just a matter of whizzing down the hill into Ischgl for the night - except that my accommodation was another 400m climb out on the other side of the village - in the interests of altitude conditioning (I'm told that actually sleeping at altitude makes a big difference).
It was pushing 7pm by the time I reached Ischgl and so I rang ahead to let the accommodation know I was really coming - and to ask if they would still be able to feed me. They advised finding a restaurant in Ischgl before heading on up, so that's what I did... my regular readers will know that I consider Wiener Schnitzel to be mandatory on every visit to Austria!
And the final verdict on Zeinisjoch? Cascades of insane corkscrew hairpins are best appreciated from above coming down 😆
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2019-06-21T11:08:53Z
Avg Pace:
5:25/km
Elevation:
1881.7
Distance:
63450.1
Moving time:
20593
Activity id:
2469072507
Strava title:
Bludenz to Ischgl
Total photo count:
7
Title:
Let's ease into this gently, he said
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Acclimatisation tour day 1 ending at 1848m
Average speed:
3.081
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/40aa8207-bcc3-4770-9ed5-bddf1acdfbae.jpg
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