If yesterday seemed like a picnic - today really was one!
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A cute little roughstuff crossing in the morning, then hit the tarmac in the afternoon to get in position for tackling the Stelvio Pass next day. Sounds like a plan! Actually the original plan was for a second cute roughstuff crossing in the afternoon - the spectacular Uina Gorge, which I've still never done - but the Scuol tourist information informed that that one was still blocked by snow.
As for the Fimberpass, which links Ischgl in Austria with Scuol in Switzerland - also a designated mountain bike trail, a stage on the international "Trans-Altarezia bike" route https://www.schweizmobil.ch/de/mountainbikeland/routen/route/etappe-0176... - that wasn't stated as closed from the Scuol end. For the Ischgl end, my plan was to ask the staff at the guest house I'd stayed at overnight, which is literally right on the route, so you'd think they should know. What they could tell me was that there was "some snow" at the top but that a few mountain bikers had come across in the last few days.
That was good enough for me, so at 08.20 I was on my way, keen to crack on with my ride before those afternoon thunderstorms, which were in the forecast again.
After about 1km the track turned to gravel, I crested a rise and there was the Val Fenga stretching out ahead of me. I really felt that the world was my oyster and I had just opened it!
Next up was a ford where a mountain stream flowed across the track. There was a narrow footbridge across it but I decided it looked shallow enough to ride through and the bottom not too stony. Splash splash, through I went! I was having such fun!
I spent ages stalking marmots with the camera.
I photographed juniper, gentian, and some gorgeous little red flowers (Caroline will tell me the name in due course) which put the camera's macro capability to good use.
I was having so much fun that I even decided now was the moment to experiment with the handlebar camera mount I'd recently bought, and shoot my first ever roughstuff video:
I crossed the Swiss border - which it turns out isn't at the pass, but some way down on the "Austrian" side - and wondered whether the dire prohibition on crossing with "vehicles of all kinds" would extend to my bike!
Pre-Schengen signage at the Austrian/Swiss border
Before long I came to the Heidelberger Hütte - a staffed mountaineering lodge - and thought that coffee and cake would go down a treat, if they had any. My luck was in - it was the very first day of their summer season opening!
But then, my luck ran out, along with the land rover track I'd been riding up so happily. After the Heidelberger Hütte, which it was presumably built to serve, it turned into singletrail - or rather, it turned into a snowdrift.
In retrospect, I should have turned round then & there, buzzed back down the valley to Ischgl and activated the road route I'd planned in reserve. What I actually did is thought "oh, great, all I have to do is get up this bit of snowy slope and then the trail will open out again at the top"; shouldered my bike and barged on through.
The trail didn't open out at the top, though. When it wasn't covered in snow, it looked like this:
And when it was covered in snow, it looked like this:
... or this (note how the snow is halfway up the trail signpost!):
Just after I'd taken that last photo, it began to rain. As I didn't think I was likely to be riding for a while (8 hours, as it turned out, little did I know what was ahead!), I popped on the free Brakspears Oxford Brewery saddle cover which you can see in the photo at the top, and also decided soon afterwards that it was time to raid the sandwiches and flask of coffee which the guest house had given me.
The views, though! What awesome views!
To cut a long story a bit shorter than it could be: I fought my way up to the pass at 2608m, struggling with the altitude, the rain (which I swear turned to sleet near the top) and the increasing wind chill. Slightly forced smile there for the camera!!
The thought that kept me going was - which I still think wasn't unreasonable, although it turned out to be totally wrong - that while there was still snow on the north side of the pass, the descent on the south side would all be green sun-drenched alpine meadows with clanging cowbells. To be fair: there was some green, and the sun did come out. But that path did look a LONG way away (and there was yet more snow beyond that next ridge).
How to put this succintly? At several points I actually thought I was going to die. The slopes were steeper than on the side I'd come up, and the snow fields had formed an icy crust and had to be traversed across the slope. At one point the bike and I slid away sideways and I found myself desperately trying to make the bike handlebar dig in, like an ice axe, to arrest the slide - in which I was successful, thankfully. At the next slippery bit I went ahead by myself, sans bike, assessing the terrain and kicking footholds in the snow; then came back and fetched the bike bags; finally back once more for the bike itself. Maybe the scariest bit was having to get across a river where it had been flowing under the snow and I was afraid it would have undermined the snow crust and I would drop through and drown/freeze/suffocate.
There was definitely nobody around to fish me out! I didn't see another person from Heidelberger Hütte until I got to road level on the other side.
I had made up my mind to stop at the very first place I found offering a bed for the night - writing off my prepaid booking further on, which I had no chance of making before nightfall - but even that was easier said than done, as it's currently between seasons and many places are closed. Having drawn a blank in both Vna and Ramosch - the first two villages I reached - I resorted to good old booking.com and found a place in Scuol, another 8km to ride up the valley. I finally got there just before 9pm - thank goodness the restaurant was still open - that picnic was a long long time ago! My splendid bike was admired by a couple just parking their car, which - along with being alive - made my day.
I ached all over. Boy, I ached! But it didn't matter - I was asleep the second I got into bed.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2019-06-22T06:20:30Z
Avg Pace:
11:56/km
Elevation:
1066.3
Distance:
36435.5
Moving time:
26100
Activity id:
2471995804
Strava title:
Fimberpass (2608m) extreme snow roughstuff
Total photo count:
12
Title:
If yesterday seemed like a picnic - today really was one!
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Acclimatisation tour day 2 ending at 1240m
Average speed:
1.396
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/ab48fe92-de87-41e3-9560-8d1fb1a9486e.jpg
StreamLatLng:
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