The Longest Climb (coda to Himalayas tour)
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No false summits, no intervening dips; as soon as we turned right out of the hotel car park just before 6am, it was the best part of 2000m of continuous ascent to reach the Khardung La pass. This is on a par with my biggest previous ascent, the San Bernardino in southern Switzerland ( https://storyteller.fit/story/2405 ) but with one huge difference: on the San Bernardino you start at around 300m above sea level; here, the starting altitude - that's the STARTING altitude! - was 3500m, which is already 200m above the highest road in Europe (the 3300m Pico del Veleta in Spain).
Above: Dawn breaking over the formidable Khardung La: the view from the hotel roof in Leh at 5.15am
I was quite nervous whether I would actually make it, having suffered horribly with the altitude 3 days previously near the top of the slightly lower Taglang La. ( https://storyteller.fit/story/5691 ) On the plus side, we had had a few days' more altitude acclimatisation, the benefit of a rest day, and I had less weight on the bike. On the main tour I'd been carrying enough spare clothes and essentials to cope overnight if the support vehicle failed to reach us - no need for that today, as the route returns to the start point. I was being such a weight weenie that I even detached the saddlebag shoulder strap and left it behind!
One of the riders in our group had already bailed, and one of our guides had injured himself taking part in a mountain bike event on our rest day (the silly boy!), so we were reduced to just 4 riders. Our surviving guide, Aman, was riding Khardung La for the 21st time. I asked him if it got boring and he said no, he found it exciting every time.
The first couple of km were on dirt roads through the outskirts of Leh town, before joining the pass road which was fairly good tarmac, but narrow. We climbed steadily on a moderate gradient of around 5%, glancing back to see the sunshine gleaming on the snowy peaks on the far side of the Indus valley.
The road snaked between sunshine and shade.
It was fun seeing the shadow of my bike along the edge of the road.
This is one of those climbs where you can see the summit from the bottom and it stays in sight pretty much the whole time - photo below.
Such is the vastness of the landscape here that one loses one's sense of scale and the climb didn't actually look horrifically daunting! I tried not to be fooled and to trust the altimeter on my watch. We were tracking a pretty respectable 400m per hour, but I knew we'd get slower near the top, and reckoning in snack and rest stops I thought we might do it in 7 hours. (In the event it was 6 1/2)
Until our tea stop halfway up it was quite a cruise - then all that changed. The gradient got steeper; the traffic increased, including a convoy of army lorries, which happened to catch up with me at a particularly narrow point; and then the smooth tarmac gave way to an unmade road with streams running across and along it, stony and/or sandy surfaces, and fallen rocks blocking half the width in places.
Below: clearing rocks from the road - could this be the world's highest tractor at 5116m? (according to the GPS on my camera)
I watched the altimeter nervously - the headache and dizziness had kicked in hard at 5000m last time - while trying hard to manage the work rate and my breathing to make the most of the available oxygen. This wasn't always easy because the rough surface required more effort than tarmac, plus the need to brute-force it up the occasional steeper or looser section, especially when I needed to get clear of it to avoid traffic.
I had a scare with a dizzy spell at 4700m, but with a few rests and careful management of the work rate, it didn't get any worse and, crucially, the headache stayed away (I'd woken up without one for just about the first time on this trip). I encouraged myself through this final phase with the thought of espresso and cheesecake back down in Leh, where I'd discovered a decent café for the first time on this tour!
The clouds had come right in as we approached the summit, and while we were taking photos it actually began to snow! The atmosphere was great, though, with applause and congratulations from the motorised day trippers, some of whom even insisted on being photographed with us. We were the only cyclists at the summit, although we met some others heading up as we were on our way down.
Below: the view into China
There's some confusion about what altitude the pass really is. The sign at the top states 17982 feet, which equates to 5481m. Some other publicity - including the merchandise in the souvenir shop at the summit - claims 18380 feet (5602m). My watch altimeter (which I calibrated to our starting height) read 5269m, while the GPS built into my camera only gave 5174m. For an authoritative answer, I looked to Wikipedia ( https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khardung_La ) which states 5359m on the basis of referenced survey data. This also happens to be the exact figure which Strava gave as maximum altitude for the ride.
After having our packed lunches at the top, it was time to tackle the descent. The unmade road section at the top I found especially tough on my hands, due to the jarring over the bumpy surface coupled with the need for constant braking and very precise steering around all those rocks. My main impression of the descent was disbelief that we had actually managed to come up such a long way!
We rolled into Leh just a few minutes before 3pm - the perfect time for a restorative coffee and cake.
After that it was back to the hotel and a seamless transition into dismantling and boxing my bike - which has served me magnificently on this tour - for tomorrow's early morning flight to Delhi en route home. After 3 flights and an arduous road trip, the box is getting to be more tape than cardboard.
[ Subsequent edit: I had to open it all up again the next morning at Leh airport, when the baggage security guy stuck his finger through one of the hand holes, prodded a tyre and decided I hadn't deflated it enough ... in vain I protested that they are tubeless tyres and feel stiff even at very low pressure ... it was either open it and let them down, or not get on the plane! ]
The one thing I found the most difficult about cycling the Khardung La was finding a souvenir sticker for my bike. About 1 shop in every 3 in Leh offers cloth sew-on badges, but nowhere a sticker to be found!
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2019-07-13T00:21:26Z
Avg Pace:
5:27/km
Elevation:
2826.7
Distance:
75044.4
Moving time:
24537
Activity id:
2527745542
Strava title:
Khardung La (5359m) up & back from Leh
Total photo count:
7
Title:
The Longest Climb (coda to Himalayas tour)
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
3.058
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/618a9a5c-9385-421b-8cd7-47595dfab500.jpg
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