The Full Four Thousand (Himalayas tour day 4)
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What a fabulous day. What a fabulous view from the mouth of my tent, as I drafted this post in my notebook, of the valley leading to the ~4900m Baralacha La pass - our goal and challenge for tomorrow - with its stark rocky sides, gleaming snow fields, and bright blue sky above.
Today was the day that the clouds finally cleared to give us an unobstructed view of the towering surrounding peaks.
Not everyone was happy about this. The Englishwoman in the group, whom I shall refer to as "X", chuntered away over breakfast. "I hope it doesn't stay sunny." "It'll be way too hot." "I hope it clouds over again soon." Thank goodness for the British sense of humour. After about the 6th chunter, I beamed her a huge grin and said "You're going to whinge all day about that, aren't you?" At which she grinned back and said "Probably!" - and then didn't!
I could see her point in a way, though, because today's route was basically all uphill. From the guest house at Jispa we began by continuing upstream along the same river valley we arrived by yesterday, soon reaching a wide flat confluence point with two tributaries and the most magnificent example of a terminal moraine I've ever seen in my life.
A posh wide new bridge was under construction here, but we - and all that lorry traffic - still had to use the rickety old one. There was also a passport check point here, which caused a minor hold up because "Z", one of our two Hungarian cyclists in the group, had left his in his bag on the support vehicle.
Today was also the day that we went above 4000m for the first time. On day 2 on the Rohtang Pass ( https://storyteller.fit/story/5551 ) I had really struggled above 3600m - but was hoping that the last 60 hours spent around/above 3000m would have acclimatised me to go higher.
The big test came in the form of a longish roadworks section - at almost exactly 3600m, according to my watch altimeter - where I decided that my best strategy was to match my speed to the lorry in front, far enough behind to stay out of the worst of its dust cloud, but close enough that the next lorry driver didn't feel the need to barge past. My limbs and lungs responded magnificently and got me through as planned - needed a good breather at the top of the roadworks, though!
The next challenge was a stony ford where a mountain stream was flowing across the road and had washed away the tarmac. Chaos ensued as we, a packhorse team, a shepherd with a huge flock of sheep and goats, and a large group of impatient motorcyclists, all arrived more or less simultaneously.
The first three of us got across ok, the packhorse team baulked in midstream, the motorcyclists were beeping their horns while the sheep and goats milled around all over the road, and our front guide Raj was busy taking photos. I unilaterally decided to ride on while the road was clear ahead!
The vegetation has been changing dramatically through this tour so far, from the lush valley around Manali full of plum and apple orchards; through the steep gorges between Sissu and Jispa with their piecemeal agriculture interspersed with conifers where the slopes will support them; to the barren heights above 4000m where the landscape is dominated by cliffs, scree slopes and boulders, with just enough sparse growth of grass and herbs to sustain those flocks we have seen, as long as they keep moving on.
We were moving on and grazing, too, stopping by a small lake at about 3700m for bananas and water handed out by the support crew; again, just as my watch altimeter (possibly prematurely) heralded 4000m, for fresh mango; and then for our packed lunches at Zing Zing Bar, a works outpost which basically consists of three tin-roofed garages and a tarpaulin snack shack.
Above: the lake at Patsio
Below: Zing Zing Bar, and lunch
At Zing Zing Bar we met the first other "real cyclists" - two Dutch brothers who were on a much more hardy and ambitious 3-week tour, unsupported, either bivouacking at night or finding whatever basic accommodation they could. They looked utterly spent.
We, on the other hand, only had a couple of hundred metres more ascent to our comfy camp, all nicely set up by the support crew, which we reached at the surprisingly early hour of 2pm. This gave me plenty of time to borrow a needle and thread from the crew to sew on one of the arms of my softshell jacket, which had zipped off as designed but refused to zip back on again; and to survey the site for the best place to set up the Nikon for star trail photography overnight.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2019-07-06T02:26:36Z
Avg Pace:
6:09/km
Elevation:
1147.3
Distance:
35999.2
Moving time:
13291
Activity id:
2522564724
Strava title:
Himalayas day 4: Jispa to camp (4269m) above Zing Zing Bar
Total photo count:
1
Title:
The Full Four Thousand (Himalayas tour day 4)
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
2.709
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/styles/extra/public/field/image/2819/TG190423.JPG?itok=P9aBuO6q
StreamLatLng:
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