Geology, snow and bumpy roads on Baralacha La (Himalayas tour day 5)
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Our route stays above 4000m for almost the entire next 4 days, just dipping down below at the end of the penultimate day before reaching Leh. I was worried about the altitude, but as far as today's ride was concerned, I needn't have been.
The day started with glorious blue skies, a contrast to the cloudy night which had almost ruined my star photography plans. Once I'd shaken off my overnight headache - which might have had as much to do with caffeine deprivation as with altitude (no real coffee on this tour!), the 700m climb from our camp site to Baralacha La pass, taken slowly and steadily, caused no great alarms.
At least, no altitude-related alarms; what WAS alarming was the narrow, sheer-sided snow cuttings barely wide enough for a lorry, never mind a lorry overtaking a cyclist! (Photo at the top.)
Once safely through the snow cuttings, though, the reward was views of a stunning ice-covered lake, before continuing on up to Baralacha La pass summit itself.
As with many of these passes, the actual altitude is somewhat nebulous: the pass sign says 4850m, but the Strava GPS log puts it at 4913m. Wikipedia states 4890m. (End-of-tour edit: this was the only altitude sign in metres we saw on the entire tour - generally they are in feet - which is odd considering that all the distance signs in India are in km.)
What I'm finding really weird about cycling at altitude is having to consciously limit the work rate according to the capability of my lungs and heart to supply oxygen to my muscles - reining in my legs which are ready and eager to do more! I can power up for a short period (e.g. to get out of the way of one of those lorries) but it leaves me gasping for air. The effect at the end of the day is that my heart and lungs have had a good workout, but my legs feel scarcely more exerted than if I'd pootled to the shops & back a couple of times. It's quite bizarre!
After the summit, the descent began gently through a flatter section with amazing views of the mountains ahead gleaming under blue skies.
There were also some more snow cuttings with lorries! I shot some handlebar-cam video of this section:
https://youtu.be/EQ4X-o8Gbkw
On this side of the pass the geology also changed completely. Whereas the river on the south side was flowing neatly in the flat-bottomed valley below grey scree slopes, the north side river had carved out its own vertical-sided gorge in the reddish-ochre sandstone.
Then it flowed out into a huge sand and gravel delta.
Several tributaries joined here, one of which we (and all the other traffic) had to ford without the luxury of a bridge! This was one of the very few sections I couldn't ride: had to shoulder my bike and rock-hop across.
Time for a quick shout out in praise of my bike, "The Titanium Devil". So far on this tour it has handled everything I've thrown at it with aplomb. It's got me up, down and through everything that my fellow riders could manage on their mountain bikes, as well as being lighter and freer-rolling, which gave me a distinct advantage over the others on anything uphill and anything tarmac (which between them cover most of the tour!)
(Post-tour update: Hungarian "Z" said to me on the last day: "Your bike is perfect ... I've never seen a bike that could handle every kind of road so well." I thanked him and I glowed a bit!)
After passing the delta, we stopped at a roadside tea shack for lunch - going for the local fare (noodles) this time as the support vehicle hadn't caught us up yet with our lunch packs.
Then we moved on into yet another different geological zone, the rocks red and black and broken into huge jagged boulders at the side of the road.
The valley floor was littered with so many heaps of rubble that it was impossible to tell which was a moraine, debris from a landslide, or spoil from mineral extraction.
Bizarrely, there was also a bulldozer parked in the middle of nowhere.
The road through this section was very rough and tricky - no concerns for the Titanium Devil, of course! Then, very abruptly a few km before our camp, it changed to Swiss-grade tarmac in a wide grassy valley.
We reached camp about 3pm and my first priority was to do laundry (in a bucket - hopefully the only camp laundry I'll need to do on this tour) to get the maximum drying time in the sun before it sets about 6.30pm.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2019-07-07T02:55:33Z
Avg Pace:
5:51/km
Elevation:
999.3
Distance:
42092.9
Moving time:
14757
Activity id:
2522563418
Strava title:
Himalayas day 5: via Baralacha La (4850m) to camp outside Sarchu
Total photo count:
9
Title:
Geology, snow and bumpy roads on Baralacha La (Himalayas tour day 5)
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
2.852
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/f314e550-2b5f-4f19-b3a9-ed1f8085bbd2.jpg
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