Stone pinnacles, blue sheep and the Gata Loops (Himalayas tour day 6)

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Imagine that you are bowling along on your bike through a landscape that resembles Dartmoor. But look to your right and there are towering snowy peaks; look to your left and there is a stupendously wide and deep rift valley, into whose floor the river has carved its own valley-within-a-valley flanked by rows of sandstone pinnacles.

Those peaks are probably over 6000m and the river is probably as wide as 3 motorways, but everything is so vast here that one completely loses one's sense of scale.

Our day began with an easy couple of hours' riding as we followed that rift valley downstream, allowing the amazing views to sink in and shooting plenty of photos and videos. 


The road surface was billiard-table-smooth tarmac, dark black and obviously recently laid - we even passed the line painting crew! - but narrow, barely more than single-lane width, with passing places.

This being the main and only road to Leh, means that all traffic - commercial, tourist, military - goes along it; we were lucky to catch a quiet day today, meeting no vehicles at all for long periods.

On the road we have de facto split into two groups: the slow group, consisting of guide Raj, Englishwoman "X" and myself; and the exceedingly slow group, consisting of guide Aman with the two Hungarians "Y" and "Z".  

At 10.30 we all had a re-sync and snack stop at the point at which the road abruptly leaves the valley and turns 90° up hill through the 21 "Gata Loops" hairpin bends, gaining 700m in altitude (starting from 4200m!). After this, we didn't see the other group again until the camp site.


The Gata Loops ascend a rocky, arid hillside (photo above) without the slightest inkling of shade or shelter. Good thing we were tackling it before the hottest part of the day! The gradient is very moderate and it was basically just a question of getting settled into a sustainable work rate (given the altitude) and grinding on up.
After crossing a false summit, the view changed to look down into a sheer-sided tributary valley, with an extremely scary-looking trail visible on the opposite slope, which our guides told us was the route which travellers had to take before the Gata Loops road was built. 


We had our lunch stop on another false summit, at a very rocky outcrop with a rock arch, a viewing rotunda, and a colony of Himalayan blue sheep!
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bharal


On restarting after lunch, Raj stopped so abruptly that "X" and I almost ran into him. He had a puncture! He instructed us to ride on ahead and he would catch us up... soon "X" lagged behind to take photos and I found myself riding alone at the front - and getting wet, when a shower appeared out of nowhere (see all the blue sky in those photos!). My strategy with rain is normally (1) assume it's a passing shower and (2) if it isn't, just get wet and change later. This time I was forced to activate (3) put on rain gear only if (1) is proved wrong and you're going to get too wet and cold before you can implement (2). Still, I thought it would be fun to reach the summit before Raj caught up, and so I pushed the work rate a bit, at risk of a bit of altitude dizziness. He caught me up about 100m before the pass - but only because he'd had a lift part way up on the sag wagon!

Above: back to blue skies, but still in rain wear.

Generally, my altitude acclimatisation seems to be going well. Today's ride was entirely above 4000m, and tomorrow we will push above 5000m for the first time.

From the Nakeela summit it was a short but rather rough descent to Whisky Nullah - a collection of shanty shops at a river fording point - and then along a short riverside track to our camp site, just out of sight around a bend in the stream. We arrived about 2.45pm and enjoyed a relaxing sunny afternoon involving (in my case) a nap, a shave - my first since Jispa 3 nights ago - and log writing. Later in the evening, the showers kicked in again, producing a lovely rainbow in the evening light.

I felt a bit vulnerable overnight as both of our support vehicles were out of action: the minibus (which carries the camping gear and crew) had had two punctures, and the 4WD had set off on an overnight mission to the nearest repair shop, some 100km and several pass summits away! I assume that in the case of some dire emergency, the crew would have sought help from one of the drivers parked up overnight at Whisky Nullah staging post. Luckily it didn't come to that and the 4WD was back at about 4am with the fixed tyres.

Type: 
Ride
Workout_type: 
default
Date: 
2019-07-08T02:31:24Z
Avg Pace: 
4:50/km
Elevation: 
1219.1
Distance: 
56049
Moving time: 
16258
Activity id: 
2522564062
Strava title: 
Himalayas day 6: via Nakeela Pass (4739m) to camp at Whisky Nullah
Total photo count: 
1
Title: 
Stone pinnacles, blue sheep and the Gata Loops (Himalayas tour day 6)
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Average speed: 
3.447
Language: 
English
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