Bowling down the Indus (Himalayas tour day 9)
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The last night in camp was also the worst night for me. I was suffering from some kind of altitude-induced sleep apnoea (post-tour edit: turns out that this is indeed a thing: http://www.altitude.org/sleep_at_high_altitude.php ). As I dropped off to sleep, my breathing would get shallower, which would not be a problem at lower altitude, but at almost 4000m meant I wasn't getting enough oxygen and suddenly I would jolt awake, gasping. This pattern repeated itself over & over until I didn't dare to try to settle down any more - instead I just kept myself awake thinking about "stuff" - I couldn't even do anything useful like curate photos, as I was running low on battery on all my devices after 5 days without mains charging.
So it was a great relief when 6am came and it was time to get myself and my gear packed and ready for the road one last time, with the enticing prospect of getting down to lower altitude (relatively speaking - Leh, our end point, is still around 3500m!) and hopefully an afternoon nap.
It's an indication of how far our altitude conditioning has come that today basically felt like a normal bike ride, even though the entire route was higher than the highest road in Europe!
We said goodbye to (and tipped) our camp crew, who were heading straight back to Manali in the minibus, only the 4WD accompanying us to Leh. Then we were off, descending into that amazing gorge just below our camp site, whose walls were so tall and sheer that it was just about impossible to bring my camera to bear for photos. See how they dwarf our support vehicle!
That gorge was almost 20km long - with just a couple of wider spots accommodating small villages - until quite suddenly it opened out into the Indus valley, with its arid hillsides flanking the narrow green cultivated strip beside the actual river. (Photo at the top)
The population here is mainly Buddhist (in contrast to the mainly Hindu areas previously) which means there are many of the "stupa" devotional structures - whole fields full of them, in places.
We also passed the very imposing Thicksey monastery.
The road through the Indus valley passes numerous military installations where photography is banned, hence the lack of photos from this part of the ride.
Although the route was basically downstream, the lie of the land meant that we had a couple of lengthy uphill sections, which made for some pretty uncomfortable riding in the noon heat. The temperature was significantly higher here in the valley than in the mountains - high 20s / 30-ish at a guess.
The worst bit was the last hot dusty dual carriageway up to Leh town, which lies some way above the valley floor - around 200m ascent. We were very glad to reach our cool comfortable hotel - even if the approach to it was up a rather unprepossessing rubbish-filled alleyway with water flowing down the middle and stray dogs lounging! (Those dogs came back to haunt us - literally - by making a racket most of the night: the only thing that's really not to like about Leh.)
Laundry, shower, nap, dinner. We
went out to a lovely rooftop restaurant with live sitar music and probably the best authentic Indian cuisine we enjoyed all tour. (The camp cookery had been quite bland and westernised to suit the palates of our two Hungarians.)
Below: home for the next 3 nights. Tomorrow is a rest day; the next day we will tackle the formidable Khardung La as a day ride ( https://storyteller.fit/story/5598 ); the day after that we fly home.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2019-07-11T02:29:24Z
Avg Pace:
2:52/km
Elevation:
545.8
Distance:
71466.3
Moving time:
12286
Activity id:
2522565359
Strava title:
Himalayas day 9: Lato to Leh
Total photo count:
1
Title:
Bowling down the Indus (Himalayas tour day 9)
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
5.817
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/f4fbf167-b358-499a-8528-707d44fb735f.jpg
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