De Schelde, dag 1: Stekene-Vlissingen-Antwerpen
Sandwiches gemaakt, de trekkingfiets (een oude Koga Terraliner, maar meer daarover in een volgend verslagje) volledig nagekeken, gepakt en ge-Ortlieb-zakt.
Wekker om 6 uur gezet, een extra grote kom havermout -m'n vaste ontbijt- binnenschuiven en om 7.20 uur: hop de fiets op om de Schelde van monding tot bron, helemaal af te fietsen. Deze trip had ik al een paar maanden in m'n hoofd en nu zou ik dat plannetje eens uitvoeren.
Naar Breskens
De Schelde is zo'n 360 km lang. Mijn fietstrip zou ruim 480 km lang worden. Vanwaar die extra kilometers? O.a. omdat ik van thuis, in Stekene-aan-de-Vaart, vertrok naar de Scheldemonding in Breskens om daar over te steken naar Vlissingen. (Zie glimlachloze selfie hieronder.)
Bij 't vertrek was het weer grijs, maar het regende niet... Tot net over de grens, in Philippine, waar het schoorvoetend begon te miezeren. Tegen dat ik in Breskens was, om de fietsferry te nemen, was het al steviger aan 't regenen. Maar hey, wij, vrienden van de vélo, zijn niet van suiker, toch?
M'n tempoberekening was redelijk feilloos: tegen 10 uur was ik in Breskens, goed op tijd voor boot die om 10.18 uur vertrok. (Voor de geïnteresseerden: enkel kaartje voor een fietser: €4,25.
(Tussen haakjes: ik heb opzettelijk de oversteek naar de overkant 't water gemaakt omdat ik als Wase polderfietser de Zeeuwse linkeroever als m'n broek-euh-zeem ken. De overkant was voor mij redelijk terra incognita.)
Geen koers
Tussen Stekene en Breskens had ik er al stevig de pees op gelegd met een kruissnelheid van zo'n 26 à 27 km/u. Toen ik in Vlissingen, op de rechter Schelde-oever voet aan wal zette, herinnerde ik mezelf eraan om de knop in vakantiemodus te zetten en iets rustiger te gaan fietsen. Dit moest een rustgevende fietsvakantie worden, geen koers in m'n koppie.
Fietsendeweg kreeg ik het weer aan m'n kant: de zon vocht zich stilaan een weg door wolken, zodat ik kon beginnen te genieten van deze trip. Rond het middaguur, zette ik m'n nadarhek op wielen even aan de kant bij een bankje om wat te eten, vlak bij de enige Nederlandse kerncentrale: die van Borssele.
Met vers hout op de stoof, stoof ik er weer stilletjes vandoor. M'n volgende stop zou in de buurt zijn van Bath, waar al eens een scheepje uit de bocht gaat.
Maar na een paar korte stops om idyllische kiekjes te maken, zoals van deze chillende schaapjes ...
... en een passage langs de sluizen van het pittoreske Hansweer, moest ik simpelweg stoppen aan fietscafé 't Spulletje in het plaatsje Waarde.
Een Seef-biertje, een babbeltje en koffietje later, zette ik koers richting de eindbestemming: Antwerpen, waar ik daags voordien online nog een overnachting had geboekt in de jeugdherberg.
Shock
Maar voor ik op die bestemming geraakte, raakte ik nog even in shock. Uit ervaring weet ik verdomd goed dat er een wereld van verschil is tussen de Nederlandse en de Belgische fietspaden. Maar wat je bij het overschrijden van de grens, ter hoogte van de Antwerpse haven meemaakt, overtreft al je fietsersnachtmerries.
Het wegdek dat plots verandert in een maanlandschap, levensgevaarlijke verkeerssituaties, fietspaden die plots ophouden te bestaan, een landschap dat helemaal verkloot wordt door aftandse industriële installaties en de onhoudbare stank van de (petro)chemie.
Groot was mijn onbegrip dat er nog zovele fietsers mijn pad kruisten. Nu was ik wel de enige gek die zich met een gewone fiets een weg baande door de Fernand Hutsepot. De goedverdienende havenarbeiders die na hun werkdag naar huis sjeesden, deden dat speed pedelecs (aka elektrisch brommers) of koersfietsen.
Eindsprint
Maar, kinder-/competitie-achtig, als ik ben, heb ik er een toch een paar een poepje laten ruiken en ingehaald tijdens m'n eindsprint richting 't Stad. Na ruim 10 uur en ruim 170 onderweg zijn, vond ik die laatste kilometers een zware anticlimax, een bevestiging dat België suckt als fietsland, en wilde ik dus zo snel mogelijk bij m'n overnachtingsplaats zijn.
Die overnachtingsplaats was dan weer een hele aangename verrassing: Pulcinella, een prachtige jeugdherberg, pal in het centrum van Antwerpen. Ongelooflijk dat je daar voor amper €28,90, jawel, een heel keurige kamer (incl. propere douche en lakens, kluisjes en wc) en uitgebreid ontbijt krijgt. En -niet onbelangrijk voor fietsers- een ruime en veilig afgesloten fietsenstalling. Dikke aanrader dus.
Omdat de jeugdherberg op wandelafstand van 't Eilandje ligt, ben ik daar 's avonds nog een berg spaghetti en een Chouffeke gaan slurpen bij Bavet. Om bij zonsondergang uiteindelijk op het dak van 't Mas eens te gaan checken hoe die befaamde lichtjes van de Schelde er uitzien, zo dus:
To be continued ... (Antwerpen - Doornik)
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2018-05-23T05:21:04Z
Avg Pace:
2:39/km
Elevation:
217
Distance:
175077
Moving time:
27806
Activity id:
1591140541
Strava title:
De Schelde, dag 1: Stekene-Vlissingen-Antwerpen
Total photo count:
8
Title:
De Schelde, dag 1: Stekene-Vlissingen-Antwerpen
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Zot plan tot uitvoering brengen: langs de Schelde, van monding tot bron fietsen. Eerste etappe: Stekene-Vlissingen-Antwerpen begin in miezerig weer, maar tegen dat ik in Antwerpen was, schenen er zeven zonnen.
Average speed:
6.296
Language:
Dutch
Cover image:
https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/NPqlznD0m_JG4GhmgQAW-Q04eQ2ttT9IEI5rC8sLSb0-768x1024.jpg
StreamLatLng:
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