Reaching my altitude limit on Taglang La (5328m) (Himalayas tour day 8)
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I started the day in buoyant mood as we had "only" the morning's 700m ascent to conquer, and then it would be downhill all the next day and a half to Leh, give or take a couple of small upticks on the last day. The sun was shining and I was raring to go!
We set out at 8am as a group of 5: "Z" having opted to start the day in the sag wagon, as he didn't fancy round 2 of the sandy trail linking our camp site to the main road.
On the way we passed ruined buildings, wild horses (which I wasn't quick enough to capture with the camera), and a settlement of nomadic herders with their yurts and 4WD vehicles.
On rejoining the main road, we stopped at a tea shack to regroup and take refreshment.
The 700m ascent would take us to the highest point of the Manali to Leh highway: Taglang La, at 5328m. (I learned, by the way, that "La" means "pass", so it would be incorrect to call it the Taglang La Pass.) The ascent is spread out over 20km, which means an average gradient of some 3% and should be a doddle - "except for the altitude" - mantra of this tour!
The southern ascent of Taglang La is unlike any other pass road you've ever seen. There are no hairpin bends. The approach is up a wide valley which ends in a large cirque, at the top of which is the pass. The road simply ascends the valley side at a steady gradient - including excursions into a couple of side valleys - as though the engineer planning the road had taken the start and end points and drawn a line crossing the contours at an even rate all the way up. (Which may well be exactly what happened!).
Above: looking towards Taglang La from valley level.
As a bike ride, it's pretty boring. The valley has the colour scheme of army camouflage - light brown rock broken up by patches of olive green vegetation. It's completely empty: no habitation, no trees, no scenic features like waterfalls or rock pinnacles. Just the mountain, the road, and us.
About 300m below the summit I hit my altitude limit. I couldn't get enough breath (despite reducing the work rate), I felt dizzy, and my headache, which has been on & off all tour, intensified. I had to stop and recover otherwise I would have fallen off my bike! With several more stops, I struggled up that last section and eventually made it to the the top where Raj, Aman and "X" were all waiting ("Y" and "Z" had done that last bit in the sag wagon, I learned later).
Below: so near, and yet so far! The summit is just round the corner of that rocky bit - honest, Guv!
After a good rest and packed lunch at the top, it was time to tackle the descent, and my goodness what a contrast! Someone must have stolen all the scenic interest from the south side and moved it to the north! A surface of mostly good tarmac contributed to a very satisfying cruise down, through multiple hairpin bends, with sensational views both down into the valley and up to the peaks. I haven't got many still photos of the descent because I was busy using the camera for handlebar video.
https://youtu.be/v7eRlwLvTGE
Above: view back down the valley on the south side where we came up
Below: snow clearance operations at the top of Taglang La; looking down the north side
After descending through the hairpin bends to the valley floor, we carried on descending gently alongside the river, with views ahead of striking reddish-hued mountains which I initially assumed to be coloured by some kind of vegetation, but on closer inspection (and zooming the photos!) turned out to be the minerals.
There were also amazing mushroom-capped pinnacles.
I'd lagged behind to take photos, so I didn't realise when I stopped to photograph this extraordinary rugged gorge below (like a Lord of the Rings film set!) that this was in fact our camp site - in the trees on the lower left of the photo.
This was the first time we had been below 4000m (but only just!) in 4 days and was also our last night in camp - after supper the crew cleared away the tables in the mess tent and we had a little party with singing and dancing - somewhere there's a video of me accompanying on a drum improvised from a plastic fuel jerrycan, which I'll publish if I can get hold of it!
... and so to bed ...
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2019-07-10T02:16:22Z
Avg Pace:
4:02/km
Elevation:
1137.7
Distance:
72507.3
Moving time:
17565
Activity id:
2522565470
Strava title:
Himalayas day 8: via Taglang La (5328m) to camp at Lato
Total photo count:
2
Title:
Reaching my altitude limit on Taglang La (5328m) (Himalayas tour day 8)
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
4.128
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/9c7f4513-9e92-41c6-a1e6-c14734c25174.jpg
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