Day 2: Up to Kodaikanal, with monkeys but no tigers!
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Tranquil Nest, our overnight stop, is arranged in the form of a series of mini-bungalows along a winding driveway through a coffee plantation, and our allocated bungalow was the very last one at the highest point of the driveway. Sounds idyllic - and mostly it was - except that the entire rest of the place was booked out to a vegan detox retreat, who as we arrived were socialising noisily on an outdoor dining terrace just a few steps away. Also, we were looking forward to sampling the estate's own coffee, but no can do - it appears that the coffee plantation and the hotel/retreat centre are run as totally separate businesses and never the twain shall meet. We were offered instant coffee with our breakfast, which we politely but firmly declined!
We were served breakfast al fresco on the above-mentioned outdoor dining terrace - no omelette today, as the whole establishment was in vegan lockdown mode! - and were ready in good time for our scheduled 9am start. Getting back to the road first meant getting *down* that crazy cobbled drive mentioned at the end of yesterday's post ( https://storyteller.fit/story/6901 ) - Caroline sensibly opted to get a lift down in the support vehicle, but my bravado got the better of me, I'm afraid! "You're not going to *ride* down that, are you Tom?" "Of course - that's exactly the kind of road this bike was built for!"
So off I went - briefly wondering why on earth our guide Keshu was *walking* with his bike and not riding - but it was too late: the road pitched downwards under me at some 25-30% gradient while I hung on for dear life, trying to keep my weight aft, trying to keep the speed under control (but not so slow that a sudden bigger bump would stop the front wheel and throw me off forwards), and grimly avoiding piling into the worst raised or missing cobblestones. There was a period of maybe 20 seconds when I thought I wasn't going to make it and might well end up in hospital.
So much text expended on the first 3 minutes of the ride! The upshot was that my trust in my devilish steed wasn't misplaced after all, I was faster than Keshu walking (but only just), and by the time Caroline and the support crew caught up I was waiting at the roadside cool as a cucumber as if nothing could have been easier 😁
So the three of us formed up on the road and set off together in vastly different conditions to yesterday, with the road winding through the forested hills and a cool breeze wafting over us. Where the trees cleared we had panoramic views down the misty forested valley to a small lake far below.
For the first couple of hours, the route undulated gently between +/-100m of our starting altitude, passing through different types of forest vegetation as well as a few villages and some isolated pockets of agriculture. Caroline stopped us to get a photo of a particularly impressive field of beans - each plant provided with its own separate string to climb.
Unexpectedly, we passed through a striking stand of eucalyptus trees, with signage explaining it was a government-sponsored introduction research project.
Very soon after this we stopped for our lunch break, by a fruit stall where the lovely lady stallholder brought out a plate of freshly cut pineapple - this tour company are regular customers with their groups. Our stopping place was overlooked by a colourful shrine to the Sacred Heart of Jesus. (This region is multi-faith, split between Hindu, Muslim and Christian, who seem to co-exist just fine!)
After the lunch stop, we began a continuous climb, at a more or less steady 5% or so - not too tough - to reach our destination in the former colonial hill station of Kodaikanal (est. 1843) at around 2000m altitude. Here, instead of yesterday's elephants, the roadside signage warned of tigers! Again, I was disappointed not to see any - all we saw were monkeys, sitting in their family groups on the roadside walls and literally booing and hissing us as we rode past!
At around 1800m altitude we reached the Silver Cascade falls, which must be an amazing spectacle when in full flow, but today only carrying a trickle of water due to the dry conditions.
Caroline called it a day here and took to the support vehicle, leaving Keshu and me to storm up the last few hairpin bends to Kodaikanal town and our hotel. "Storm" being a somewhat flexible concept here as I did call another photo stop or two to capture the impressive terraced hillside fruit plantations - mostly plums here, according to our guides.
Above: terraced fruit plantations.
Below: arrival in Kodaikanal
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2020-02-19T08:53:24Z
Avg Pace:
5:21/km
Elevation:
1735.4
Distance:
43127
Moving time:
13831
Activity id:
3113253450
Strava title:
Kodaikanal, finish at 2000m
Total photo count:
12
Title:
Day 2: Up to Kodaikanal, with monkeys but no tigers!
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
3.118
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/be2b89b9-abeb-47c4-bffb-57187d58df85.jpg
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