SUP around Wannsee, Berlin
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The suburb of Wannsee, on the western edge of Berlin, is in fact an island, surrounded by lakes joined up by a few short sections of canal. The idea of a circumnavigation by SUP has been on my radar ever since we moved to Postdam (just a bit further west) in 2018. I've already done the equivalent circuit on land, by bike: https://www.strava.com/activities/2609389995
In fact, Caroline and I did half the circumnavigation - but in the opposite, clockwise, direction - on our very first Berlin SUP trip, just over a year ago: https://storyteller.fit/story/5278
Caroline is nervous about tackling the canal sections, though, in case of meeting ship traffic, so as she is currently resting injuries, this was a good opportunity for me to try this route on my own.
I wanted to get out on the water as early as possible, both to avoid the worst of the motor boat traffic, and to be finished before the wind picked up later in the day. At 06.30 on the Whit Monday public holiday (1st June), I was off to Glienicker Brücke, with the SUP on the trailer behind my bike. I was greeted by a glorious view across the calm sunny lake to Schloss Babelsberg on the other side, and so many herons flying around that I quickly lost count of them.
View across to Schloss Babelsberg from my launch site near Glienicker Brücke
This was also where I had my first scare of the day: an itching in my right calf reminded me of the need to apply insect repellent, and as I did so, I noticed the tick - a small round black lump embedded under my skin which was rapidly becoming more painful - I've never had one before, but I immediately recognised what it was and I knew I had to get it out pretty darn quick. I was able to dig it out completely, leaving no parts behind - the bite site bled quite a bit but I shrugged and got on with my day ... I didn't even know that ticks were endemic at this low altitude, I had always associated them with mountain hiking. I must have picked it up in the long grass around the signpost where I locked up the bike & trailer.
Glienicker Brücke (above) and Schloss Babelsberg (below)
I launched at 07.20 onto the calm blue waters, leaving Glienicker Brücke (with its Cold War symbolism) behind me, Schloss Babelsberg ahead of me, and the waters of the Havel stretching away to my right past central Potsdam, completely empty of any other vessels as far as the eye could see, with V-shaped formations of cormorants flying high above.
The Havel looking towards Potsdam - cormorants just visible high in the sky
I had decided to do the circumnavigation in the anticlockwise direction, so that I could get through the canal sections early before the boat traffic built up, and traverse the more open lakes later. On my left I passed Jagdschloss Glienicke looking beautiful with its reflection in the calm water - this small palace is almost invisible from the landward side, hidden behind trees and graffiti-covered semi-derelict stone walls, and it was interesting to get a good view of the buildings which I had no idea were so imposing - as well as having a colourful history including use as an imperial hunting lodge, a military hospital, a youth hostel, a film set and a wallpaper factory! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jagdschloss_Glienicke
Jagdschloss Glienicke
Immediately after this, I somewhat nervously entered the first canal section, at this point officially part of the Teltow Canal which carries some quite large shipping. Luckily, I still had the waterway completely to myself, and this section of canal is only some 300m long so I could get through quite quickly, and see that it was clear to the other end. I passed under the small bridge - which I have cycled over many times, but never seen from below! - and out into the Griebnitzsee lake, where I met two kayakers coming in the opposite direction, the first other vessels encountered on this trip.
The canal linking Glienicker See and Griebnitzsee
The Griebnitzsee was once the front line of the Cold War, with one bank in the territory of West Berlin and the other in East Germany; there were several fatalities during escape attempts. Now, it's a haven of tranquility, with woodland along the former Western side, and millionaire-belt houses with manicured lawns and private landing-stages lining the former Communist side - the opposite of what one might expect! I've cycled the trail along the wooded West Berlin shore several times and it was fun to get the different perspective from the water. Lots of wildlife was visible, including foxes, many types of waterfowl, birds of prey in various shapes and sizes, the obligatory herons, and a solitary stork passing purposefully overhead.
Communism meets Capitalism at Griebnitzsee (but which is which?)
At the eastern end of the Griebnitzsee, the Teltow Canal branches off to the east, while the Griebnitz Canal (my route) heads more to the north, joining up in quick succession the smaller lakes of Stölpchensee, Pohlesee and Kleiner Wannsee. Unlike the Teltow Canal with its commercial traffic, this is mostly just a route for pleasure boating, and it was it this point (about an hour into my trip) that I encountered the first motor vessels of the day. Up to then, it had been only human powered traffic - kayaks, SUPs and quite a few sculls from the local boat club - which proved to be a greater hazard than the motor boats, when one of them managed to ram me while overtaking. The rower then dug herself deeper in the hole by explaining that there were usually no other craft at this early hour and so she hadn't been looking out. I expressed the hope that she didn't apply the same principle when driving her car! Luckily no damage was done, and we continued on our respective ways.
Left: Stölpchensee; Right: Griebnitz Canal
Almost exactly halfway around my route, passing from Kleiner Wannsee to Grosser Wannsee under the road bridge which is part of my regular cycle commute, the conditions changed dramatically as I was suddenly in much more open water, exposed to the NE wind which had picked up since I had started, and with a fair bit of chop on the lake surface. I shifted my weight slightly aft to help the bow of the board ride over the chop, and dug in hard with the paddle to make progress against the wind - I was still feeling pretty good at this point, although beginning to wish I had brought a flask of coffee with me!
Rougher conditions on Grosser Wannsee
Another 1/2 hour and a couple of kilometres further on and I had done most of the hard work, having almost reached the point where I would be turning downwind into the channel between Wannsee island and the smaller Pfaueninsel. I spotted a small deserted beach and decided to land and have a snack stop. It didn't stay deserted for long, though: I had just finished pulling up the SUP and started heading towards the rustic log bench nearby when a dog owner strode onto the scene and looked quite disgruntled to see me in occupation. However, she didn't really need the bench as she had brought her own folding seat, which she set up at the furthest edge of the beach away from me, and proceeded to throw sticks into the water for her dog to retrieve before shaking the water off itself perilously close to me and my snack. Luckily they quite soon both got bored with this activity and settled down quietly - well, the dog was quiet and the owner was making loud phone calls. In a few minutes I'd finished my snack, wished her a happy Whit Monday, and paddled on.
Not such an idyllic beach stop as it looks
Although I was headed downwind for the rest of the trip and it should have been easier - and the forest scenery was beautiful, with cuckoos calling - I was starting to flag by this point (best part of 2 years since I've been this far on a SUP!) and the boat traffic got busy and irksome. 11 o'clock seems to be about the cutoff time for avoiding pleasure boat traffic, and it was almost half past by the time I got back to my start point at Glienicker Brücke - with one final effort to sprint across the channel between the passing motor boats - as I had to get to the other side to land.
Plenty of boat traffic, including what looks like a sail-SUP!
I had enjoyed the trip but was glad to have finished; then it was just a matter of watching out for more ticks while I deflated and packed up the SUP and loaded it back on the trailer for the short tow home.
Landed back among the lilies
Type:
StandUpPaddling
Date:
2020-06-01T07:22:35Z
Avg Pace:
13:29/km
Elevation:
28.9
Distance:
16449
Moving time:
13307
Activity id:
3546065879
Strava title:
SUP Wannsee circumnavigation anticlockwise
Total photo count:
5
Title:
SUP around Wannsee, Berlin
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
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Cover image:
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