On the trail of the elusive Great Bustard
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An unexpected positive outcome from the COVID-19 lockdown, travel (and overnight accommodation) having become just about impossible, is to focus attention on one's local area. I had become vaguely aware of the Great Bustard as an unofficial "state bird of Brandenburg" and that there are places where it can be observed, so I decided to find out more about it and to plan a photography day trip.
Brandenburg state has Germany's only remaining breeding sites for Great Bustard, in the Havelländisches Luch area, some 50km north-west of Potsdam, where we are currently living.
The map will be interactive once the story is published.
Although theoretically well within a day's cycling range, that would have meant an uncomfortably early start and riding in the dark, because the birds are best observed early in the morning - so I decided to go train-assisted, catching the first available train at 06.30 from Wustermark, which reduced the outward ride to 22km and meant I didn't have to start from home until half an hour after sunrise.
Letting the train take the strain
The COVID-19 infection rate was dropping in Germany by this date and public transport was generally available again, with the obligation to wear a face mask. This was in fact the first time I had ventured on public transport since 14th March, exactly 11 weeks previously! The train was practically empty, being early in the morning on a lightly-used route, so hopefully not too great an infection hazard. Just before 7 o'clock, I got off at the tiny rural station of Nennhausen - so unimportant that there wasn't even a lift to the footbridge; as I've had serious back problems earlier this year, I had to be very careful lifting my bike up and down the steps.
My route followed a small minor road in between the railway line and open fields sown with young wheat crops. As this was already on the edge of bustard territory, I had put on my softshell jacket inside out to present an inconspicuous grey aspect rather than the usual hi-vis, and I was keeping a close eye on those fields. Very soon I spotted a hare poking its head up and peeping out warily from amongst the wheat close by. By the time I'd stopped and propped up the bike to get the camera out (darn those noisy metal disc brake pads!), it had run away - but as it turned out, I did manage to get some great shots of hares later on.
I resolved not to delay any more, in case the bustards had packed up and gone home by the time I reached them; resisting the urge to stop for other interesting things like assorted birds of prey and a whole field full of storks and herons. In another 10mins or so, I was at the edge of the officially designated "endangered birds reserve". And what a glorious morning it had turned out to be, with a lovely luminous light quality.
The bustard conservation project maintains a number of observation hides, but on reaching the gravel track leading to the one I wanted to try, a sign stated that the hide was closed - using the very emphatic German "gesperrt" (locked shut / forbidden) as opposed to the more normal "geschlossen" (closed). Presumably this was part of the general COVID-19 closure of tourist facilities where visitors might fail to observe social distancing. I reasoned that the great bustards probably hadn't been informed of the lockdown and might well be visible in the surrounding fields, even if I couldn't use the hide, so I pressed ahead down the track anyway.
A few hundred metres down the track, it ran alongside a stand of trees and scrubby hedgerow screening it from the open fields; I thought I should be able to use this as cover to observe and photograph the birds if they happened to appear on the other side. Then I came to a narrow access gap, like a field gate but without the gate - parked the bike, cautiously looked though - and there they were!
I got some good photos, including the extraordinary flouncing courtship display from the male (see photo at the top of the article), which I'd been expecting to miss as it is quite late in the season; and also a rare view of the bustards taking to the air. Before moving to Brandenburg, if I knew anything about Great Bustards at all, I probably thought that they were (a) extinct and (b) flightless: just shows how wrong you can be! They are, in fact, the heaviest currently living flighted bird - though, not surprisingly, they prefer to run instead of fly whenever possible.
As well as the bustards, I got my delayed opportunity to photograph hares running around the fields (see photos further up); there was also a very bored-looking red kite surveying the scene from its perch on a haybale, and a stork prowling the uncultivated wetland area on the other side of the access track.
In my time planning for the day, I'd budgeted 2 hours for photography, and by 9am I'd burnt through almost all of it in this one location, so I decided to move on: firstly, further down the track to the official observation hide, just to see if there were any any more bustard sighting opportunities around it even if I couldn't get up the actual tower. Indeed, the entrance was emphatically taped up and it was deserted - I had half expected it to be full of birdwatchers regardless, given that many Germans don't seem to give much credence to the lockdown regulations!
Nothing to be seen here, so I sat down in the sunshine on the edge of the concrete plinth supporting the tower, and had some coffee from my flask accompanied by an energy bar. I'd been half hoping to pass a bakery en route to get something fresh and yummy to go with the coffee, but no such luck.
I had covered less than 10km of my planned 60km route home, so it was time to get back on the road - and what an alluring open road, with blue skies, sunshine and fresh legs with which to tackle it - such a fabulous feeling!
I imagine this road would feel somewhat different against a headwind at the end of a long day!
My route took me through the villages of Garlitz (no bakery); Barnewitz (no bakery, but a very fine storks' nest); Gortz (no bakery); and Päwesin. Aha! I spy a bakery ... with a queue of about 20 people outside, all socially distanced at the regulation spacing (for Germany) of 1.5m. Forget that, then. I decided I would skip straight to my packed-lunch supplies and augment them with more energy bars if necessary.
Storks' nest in Barnewitz
My next planned photography stop was just beyond Päwesin at a group of small lakes, supposedly a good site for various waterfowl as well as ortolan. I was somewhat dismayed to find the access track strewn with broken glass - consistently strewn down both sides, not just a couple of random broken bottles - as if specifically to discourage cyclists. I pressed on anyway, trusting my tubeless sealant to take care of any nicks. Once again there was nobody about and I found a nice sunny spot to eat my rolls, cheese and home-grown radishes. I kept my camera close beside me while eating, but although I could hear plenty of birds in the reeds, no photo opportunities presented themselves.
Lakes near Päwesin
It was now 11 o'clock and I was still only halfway home, but with no other photo stops planned - and just one unplanned one, when I spotted a striking orange/brown bird which then managed to elude the camera - it was a steady and pleasant ride home in time for a late "2nd lunch", having clocked up a total of 85km for the day.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2020-05-30T06:54:38Z
Avg Pace:
3:31/km
Elevation:
156.6
Distance:
63356.2
Moving time:
13388
Activity id:
3535219415
Strava title:
Elusive Bustards, aren't they?
Total photo count:
5
Title:
On the trail of the elusive Great Bustard
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
But your intrepid cyclist tracked them down all right!
Average speed:
4.732
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/078ced80-7ca9-4419-9173-be1a9afc6fac.jpg
StreamLatLng:
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