This is the Age of the Crane
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One of the most dramatic natural spectacles in the state of Brandenburg is the annual autumn migration of the Common (or Eurasian) Crane, when the birds flock together in their tens of thousands in preparation for their flight south. At Linum, one of the best-known sites, the census counted around 50,000 cranes at the time we visited on this trip in early October 2021.
Linum is around 60km from our home in Potsdam, so we decided to make a weekend of it, staying 2 nights and enabling a whole day's ride through crane territory. As we quickly found out, it's just about impossible to book a room in Linum itself during "peak crane" - one place I phoned actually laughed down the phone, although when they subsequently contacted me to offer me a cancellation, I laughed back and told them I'd already booked us in somewhere else ...
Alte Weinschmiede, Sommerfeld - a really lucky find
... which turned out to be lovely! Having drawn a blank in Linum, we chose to base ourselves in Sommerfeld, which is on the diametrically opposite north-east side of the wetland area where the cranes roost (see map above). The Alte Weinschmiede - spotted on Google Maps - is a quirky little restaurant-with-rooms out the back of a wine shop, with a menu focused on local game, the chef also being the huntsman! Our basic but comfortable room faced onto a quiet, enclosed courtyard which also provided secure parking for our bikes. Having bunked off work a bit early on Friday, we got there just after sunset and just in time for a delicious dinner, having had some preliminary crane sightings en route to set the mood for the weekend.
Our positioning ride on Friday evening
As predicted by the forecast, Saturday dawned chilly under a flawlessly clear blue sky and with only a light wind: perfect conditions for both cycling and crane watching. We reviewed our proposed route with our host over breakfast - we appeared to be the only overnight guests - mining him for info about the best crane spots other than Linum itself, and making some minor adjustments to the route on his advice. We learned, amongst other things, that the cranes mostly gather in post-harvest maize fields, where there are plenty of fallen grains to scavenge. At half past nine we were off, skirting the edge of the village across open fields and along the railway line, until we found our first cranes of the day at exactly the spot predicted by our host, on the edge of the next village of Beetz.
First crane encounter of the day: we think that this is a family group of 2 adults and 2 juveniles
After a stop for photographs, we struck out south-westwards along a grassy track (the grass concealing partially-subsided cobbles, making it quite tricky to ride even with our fat 53mm tyres) between low-lying fields and drainage ditches. Our host had confirmed that "Ja, you can go along through there", but he turned out not to be fully up-to-date with the latest situation: it wasn't long before we encountered several big fallen trees, completely blocking the track. We were reluctant to turn back, because this track was heading directly into the heart of crane territory and the alternative detour by road would have taken us a long way off course. On the other hand, the trees were so big that we would have to unload the bikes to get them over, and even then it would be an awkward lift with the risk of putting our creaky old backs out. We decided that this was a good time to take our first coffee break, perched on the fallen tree trunk, while reflecting on our options.
The "old coach way" (Alter Kutschweg) south-west from the village of Wall - must have been an important route in its heyday, now sadly blocked
A closer look at the map over coffee confirmed that the detour would be so long that it would basically mean abandoning the mission - so unload-and-lift it had to be. Thank goodness for quick-release panniers! And that wasn't the end of the story, because there turned out to be several more trees down further along the track, and we had to repeat the process at each one. Anyway, we made it through - losing much less time than we would have done with the detour - and all the while enjoying the sight and sound of successive flights of cranes going over us.
-
After passing to the west of the Linum ponds, we came upon a monument at the site of the 1675 Battle of Fehrbellin. Not having really boned up on the local history (this was a nature ride, after all!), beyond knowing that Brandenburg generally has been a war zone for most of recorded history, this was both a surprise and not really a surprise. The scale of the commemoration indicates that it was clearly an event of some significance: from the modest stone plinth at the actual battle site beside the main road, a triumphal avenue stretches 500m or so across country to a huge victory column. Via a combination of the info boards at the site, and a quick look online (hooray for mobile internet!), we learned that it had been a decisive engagement in the war between Brandenburg and the invading Swedes.
Monument to the Brandenburg victory of 1675
The victory monument led us onto a deviation from our planned route, heading towards Linum village on a quiet forest track - much nicer than the bike path beside the parallel-running main road - which was also a nature trail, with info boards and a nice picnic table to eat our packed lunches in a sunny but sheltered spot (a rather chilly wind having sprung up during the morning).
Sunny lunch stop on the track to Linum
Linum itself was rammed with visitors - not quite Bourton-on-the-Water levels of rammed, but close - and we were glad not to have based ourselves there for the weekend. From our visit there 2 years previously, we knew that it's only really good for crane viewing in the morning and evening when the birds are leaving and returning to their overnight roosts in the wetland; during the day, they are best observed out feeding in the fields. So we didn't even stop, leaving Linum to its crowds (and the crowds to Linum), instead turning right at the village crossroads and taking the road south across farmland. The farmers here are obviously fed up with crane tourism, as every path and farm track leaving the road had big signs on it: "Crane watching? Not here!" Nonetheless, quite a few cars had pulled up at the roadside and their occupants were busily squinting through binoculars or long-lensed cameras; the cranes, very sensibly, had withdrawn to the furthest edges of the adjoining fields. We reckoned there were much better viewpoints to be found, so we turned east again onto less frequented roads, and suddenly there they were, in a huge flock screened from the road by a double row of trees with a dry ditch in between. Camera in hand, leaving Caroline to guard the bikes, I ducked under the trees, got one cycling shoe coated in mud from the ditch which turned out to be not as dry as all that, and got busy with photography. The scene was in constant flux as successive groups of cranes would fly up, circle round and then pick a new spot to land and resume feeding - so Caroline had plenty to watch too, as they wheeled overhead (just so that you don't think I was being mean leaving her stuck with the bikes!)
"Peak crane" in the fields near Karolinenhof - a sight worth getting muddy feet for!
At this point I thought I had enough good photos for the day, and all that remained was a cruise back to our accommodation, via a stop for coffee & cake in the pretty little market town of Kremmen, which we have passed through several times on previous trips and thought it was about time we stopped there to explore a bit. Before we got there, though, the camera had to come out just once more, to capture a veritable cloud of cranes wheeling in the blue sky above open countryside - no trees to get in the way of the shot this time!
Cranes flocking in the sky above Kremmen (also picture at the top of the article)
Kremmen: coffee & cake at the "Alte Lebkuchenfabrik"
Cobbled streets and quaint buildings in Kremmen
Later, I rode back out alone to the very first crane spot at Beetz, hoping to catch the cranes flying off into the sunset towards their roosts; after waiting for half an hour with camera poised, I managed exactly one shot before they merged against the dark trees in the middle distance!
Solo evening postlude
Flying off into the sunset at Beetz
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2021-10-09T09:29:30Z
Avg Pace:
4:37/km
Elevation:
102.9
Distance:
55512
Moving time:
15376
Activity id:
6087431859
Strava title:
Crane watching, clambering over fallen trees, and nice coffee & cake in Kremmen
Total photo count:
8
Title:
This is the Age of the Crane
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Anticlockwise from Sommerfeld. Spectacular weather for it!
Average speed:
3.61
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/styles/extra/public/field/image/2819/F21_9137%20crop.jpeg?itok=jWyCZpAK
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