Bohemia's Woods and Fields
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Bohemia's woods and fields looking "atmospheric", shall we say
If Saturday was the official "roughstuff day" of this tour then today was officially "kilometer fressen": munching the miles, in the sense of a long and rather dull slog, let's just get to where we're going, and don't shilly-shally on the way. I first heard the phrase from a bassoonist friend, by the way, but she was talking about the bassoon parts in Tchaikovsky's 6th Symphony!
Telč old town centre
I had chosen to stop-over in Telč specifically for its UNESCO World Heritage preserved old town, which I had missed out on seeing on the evening of my arrival, firstly because I was completely spent from my "adventure" in the rain, and secondly because I had no wish either to put my wet clothes back on to go out again or get my dry ones wet (I have two sets of cycling kit with me). I had improvised an evening meal from supplies - thank goodness for the "overstock" at that shop in Smolenice a couple of nights previously! So, in the morning I went off for a bit of a sightseeing walk with the bike. As it still hadn't stopped raining, I crammed myself back into yesterday's kit (now merely damp after hanging up all night), declining my hostess' kind offer to stay another day & night to sit out the weather, as I had a schedule to keep to. She actually went to the trouble of getting her English-speaking son on speakerphone to relay the offer. I made sure that he conveyed back how appreciative I was, especially of the delicious apfelstrudel last night!
Aspects of Telč
The huge main square in Telč was indeed breathtaking, and up a side street I found a tiny grocery shop absolutely crammed with goodies, and across the road an even tinier traditional bakery. So that was breakfast sorted.
Grocery shop: I got shouted at for taking this photo!
Bakery selection: the chocolate moles, I found out later, replicate a popular Czech cartoon character
My intention was to repeat yesterday's pattern of taking two trains to get me to within 30km or so of my next pre-booked overnight stop, and then cycling the rest. However, by the time I'd finished my shopping, the rain had completely stopped, and a quick check of the weather app confirmed that it was likely to stay stopped, at least for the rest of the morning. (I've given up trusting the forecast any further ahead than that!)
So I went back to the old town square and had my breakfast on a bench where I could carry on admiring the surroundings.
UNESCO World Heritage breakfast
Then I set off to continue my originally planned route, and I knew I had to push on a bit, due to the late start (it was almost 10.30 and I've been aiming to start each day around 08.00) and the fact that this was my longest scheduled daily leg - planned that way to get me closer to Prague so that I would have a shorter ride tomorrow before catching a late-afternoon train.
The map will be interactive once the story is published.
My route was book-ended by two short sections of roughstuff - come on, you'd expect nothing different from me! - starting out by leaving town on a trail which turned out to be part of the "Singletraily Telč" MTB park, in preference to a main road full of lorries; and a finish which I'll come back to later!
Early-day roughstuff. I stopped here to adjust my "layers" after the rain.
I didn't really stop much for photos en route as there wasn't much to photograph; just rolling lush green countryside, "Bohemia's Woods and Fields" as immortalised in music by Smetena, mostly shrouded in low cloud and mist which were persisting all around. (See photo at the top.) My cycling earworm today wasn't Smetena, though, but "Anton aus Tirol" - triggered by passing a "Hotel Anton" on the outskirts of Telč - a bonkers and totally unsuitable Austrian pop song which I first heard blaring in a ski shack some decades ago and has been my unofficial signature tune ever since! It has a great cadence for "kilometer fressen", too.
I did have one bit of shilly-shallying planned along the way, though, and that was a visit to the Jindřichův Hradec narrow gauge railway. It's one of the few surviving steam-hauled railways in Czechia - maybe even the only one - and it just happened to be right on my route. Better still, I got there just as one of their steam trains was pulling into the station. A bit later on, I also had an opportunity to photograph one of their diesels.
Jindřichohradecké místní dráhy
Just as I was getting ready to start off again, I felt a few drizzly raindrops in the air, so I checked the weather radar app, which reassuringly showed no rain at all over the remainder of my day's route. I didn't fancy a repeat of yesterday's drenching - it would have been even worse, as I still had 70km to go to yesterday's 30 - and I could easily have taken a train from this point as the narrow gauge station is right next to one on the main line.
Instead, I assumed that the rain would amount to no more than a few drops and fizzle out, and I pressed on. Mistake! The rain became steady (though it never reached "torrential" like yesterday) and I got wet. After a while I stopped feeling wetter, maybe because the precipitation had reached equilibrium with the evaporation, meaning that I wasn't getting any wetter, just colder. I stopped at the Co-op shop in a small hilltop village called Dírná - initially just to use their "suitable shelter"; then was tempted inside to buy supplies; then was further tempted to buy their village souvenir mug, and somehow cram it into my already-bursting saddlebag!
Souvenir of Dírná where I sheltered from the rain - a much more personal memento of my tour than some mass-market item in Prague!
I passed through Tabor, which seemed to be a nice historic town but wasn't on my sightseeing to-do list for this trip. I did stop, though, when I spotted a pharmacy on the way through - to try to buy caffeine tablets, as I had just used up my last "pro plus". They didn't have plain caffeine, so they sold me what the assistant assured me was guarana and caffeine, but later (when I'd taken time to figure out the Czech-language labelling) turned out to be guarana only, which contains merely a small proportion of caffeine. Annoying!
By Tabor, the rain had stopped, and I had high hopes of reaching my accommodation relatively "well-aired" so that my clothes stood some chance of drying out overnight. I now had less than 30km left to go, but it was along a tiresome main road - there wasn't an awful lot of traffic, but such as there was was moving quite quickly and not always leaving as much space as I'd like - and the terrain had turned more undulating, with frequent energy-sapping short climbs. On the map I could see a network of smaller roads off to one side, so I decided to improvise a route through those in order to get myself off the main road. This led to more stops to check navigation, one backtrack when I made a mistake, and one "road" which turned out to be a glorious little green lane, or rather it would have been glorious in good weather, not with the rain (which had got going again) making the surface slippery - I almost fell off my bike at one point - and bending the nettles low across the path to sting my legs!
Late-day roughstuff between Tabor and Votice, my overnight stop
All these things meant I got slower and slower and slower, finally reaching my accommodation around 18.45, dripping wet and desperate to get dried out and fed. The gate was locked. The buzzer wasn't answered. The "call the property" number in booking.com played a "number unobtainable" message. The (different) number printed on the gate sign was answered by someone who didn't understand English and then hung up.
I'd probably still be standing there if it hadn't been for the lucky arrival of another prospective guest, who was Czech and therefore able to communicate!
They were awkward about garaging for my bike. The heating didn't work in the room. There was neither a kettle nor a coffee machine, nor a hairdryer (which I wanted to use to accelerate my clothes drying). They won't be getting a great review from me! I got my revenge, though, by demanding breakfast at 6am (we ended up compromising on 06.30).
As for food, well, once again I couldn't face getting back into my wet cycling things to trek the couple of kilometres to the town centre in search of a restaurant - so it was another emergency supper "from supplies". I still had bread and cashew nuts from Smolenice, a pepper from Telč, and a lovely slab of local cheese infused with green peppercorns from my stop today in Dírná. I had some salami sticks brought all the way from Potsdam. I had muesli bars. I wasn't going to starve to death!
Emergency supper
Improvised washing line in my B&B room. Note the cycling gloves on the bathroom door handles!
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2022-08-23T10:21:47Z
Avg Pace:
3:20/km
Elevation:
1543.4
Distance:
117622
Moving time:
23509
Activity id:
7687732047
Strava title:
Bohemia's Woods and Fields - and a narrow gauge steam train
Total photo count:
5
Title:
Bohemia's Woods and Fields
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
What a pity Smetena didn't write a piece of music about the latter!
Vltava is on the programme for tomorrow
Average speed:
5.003
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/e27df88b-5369-403d-afc0-11498dc80f0c.jpg
StreamLatLng:
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