Closing the gap from Prague
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With a free weekend and a fine weather forecast, I hit upon the idea of filling in the gap in my Strava "heatmap" between Prague and Dresden. I've previously cycled from Potsdam all the way south to Dresden, but no further, and did a 5-day tour from Bratislava to Prague in August of this year.
The "obvious" route to connect Prague with Dresden would be to follow the Eurovelo EV7 long distance cycle route, following the river Vltava and then the banks of the Elbe. I'm not a big fan of cycle routes following the "great rivers", though: I find them flat, samey and pretty boring, as well as often being too crowded for enjoyment. Whenever Caroline and I have found ourselves on one such bike path in the course of our rides - either the Elbe, further north on its course through Germany, or, when we lived in Switzerland, the Rhine - we've been thankful to get off it again after 10km or so, or 20km at the maximum!
The map will be interactive once the story is published.
Instead, I planned a 2-day route taking in the triple border point between Czechia, Germany and Poland, and for this first day I headed NNE out of Prague, finishing at the little town of Hradek nad Nisou, very close to that border. Like my previous trip to Prague, it was a very early start, at 04.30 to catch a train at 06.23 from Berlin Sudkreuz - but without the thunderstorms en route, this time! This particular train, from Berlin to Graz in Austria, didn't go via Prague main station; it swung by the outskirts of Prague like a comet approaching the Sun before hurrying onwards on its trajectory, stopping only at the suburban station of Praha-Holesovice.
Fresh off the train at Praha-Holesovice
I decided not to bother with the short connecting train to the main station, but to start my ride right there from Holesovice with a loop back towards central Prague and the Prague Metronome sculpture, intersecting my previous route at that point to make sure that there really was no gap! This took me through expansive parks, full of Saturday-morning runners and dog-walkers and with the paths well sprinkled with Autumn leaves, before turning back northwards and crossing the Vltava to head out of town.
The Prague Metronome revisited
I realised that I had rather messed up my timings for this ride, because the budget B&B I had booked was only open for check-in until 19.00, and with the relatively late 10.30 start from Prague, I was going to struggle to cover the 136km in time, especially once I'd factored in snacks, photos, unplanned roughstuff detours and navigational errors (all of which happened) and never mind the possibility of a dreaded "mechanical" (which thankfully didn't!) So it was going to be "kilometer fressen" from the word go - and the word go involved a long and very steep climb onto the heights which flank the north side of the Vltava. I was instantly glad of the 3kg diminution in my weight following that August tour, which I have managed not to put back on again since!
Vineyards on the north bank of the Vltava. My route took me up the hills to the right of the photo
One of the nice things about today's route is that - unlike that Elbe bike path - it was mostly not through "touristy" areas. I went through real villages with un-beautified houses and real people going about their everyday business, I passed dilapidated farms (as well as some renovated ones), I encountered tractors on the road, I met cyclists who were obviously going shopping or to tend their allotments. People digging their gardens returned my wave from across the fences.
A typical timbered building in one of the villages I passed through
The one touristy bit was when my route went for several km along a dramatic river valley flanked by limestone cliffs. Here, I encountered quite a few other "sports" cyclists (the only ones I met on the whole ride), motorcyclists, and general tourist traffic - even in October. There were camp sites, roadside restaurants, a cave system you could visit (as far as I could tell from the signage, given my limited knowledge of Czech) and a romantic castle perched high above the valley, with several car parks and signposted hiking trails leading to it.
Hrad Kokořín commandingly poised above the Pšovka river valley
Limestone cliffs flanking the road
Castles were a feature of this trip - in fact, I had built my route around two of them. The second one, Hrad Bezděz, was even more dramatic, dominating the landscape from the larger of a pair of conical hills which jut abruptly out of the surrounding terrain (photo at the top of this article). It has a colourful history of aristocratic skulduggery, manipulation of a boy king by the regent, and the imprisoned queen (said boy king's mother) conducting a scandalous affair with said regent!
Hrad Bezděz
I'd originally planned to go right up to the castle itself - this was before I realised that I'd overcommitted myself for the time available - but settled instead for skirting over the shoulder of the hill below it. At this point, according to my calculations, I was still on for reaching my accommodation on time. However, this was also the point at which the Komoot routing took me down a difficult forest trail with one very steep incline I could barely manhandle the loaded bike down on foot. The "9.1km unpaved" in the route description should have alerted me! I didn't help myself by taking a wrong turning and then deciding that it would be easier to regain the planned route by cutting across country for a few hundred metres, rather than retracing (it wasn't). By the time I'd made it back onto terra tarmac, several scratches and nettle stings to the good, my time budget was well & truly blown. There were some splendid fungi to be seen in that forest, though - and so of course I spent yet more time photographing them!
Impressive stand of fly agaric fungi
The next surprise was being routed through a bison reservation! I'm not sure what is the correct protocol to follow when encountering bison blocking the road - the info board at the entrance gate was only in Czech and didn't help me much - but I was quite disappointed not to see any, as I was all geared up to post a photo with a caption saying that this definitely beats the sheep on Dartmoor!
Evening drawing in over the bison reserve; rain clouds starting to build
No bison to be seen, except on the info board!
I had decided that my best plan was to phone the B&B at 18.30, by which time I would be able to give them a pretty accurate ETA. 18.30 found me still 18km short, so I very apologetically explained that I had been delayed en route and now expected to be there at 19.30. (A predicted average speed of 18km/h seemed reasonable on the basis of my run-rate so far.) The young woman who answered the phone spoke good English - unusually in these parts - and seemed very relaxed about the situation, so I stopped worrying.
While stopped to make the phone call, I also switched on my lights, had an energy bar, and put on an extra clothing layer, as the evening was getting quite chilly and fatigue was also making me feel cold. The fatigue was indeed taking its toll, as I had hardly cycled for the last two weeks (firstly due to being away on a business trip and secondly due to feeling off colour for a few days after I got back) and the ride was a long one, taking me above the magic 161km (=100 miles) for the day when added to the 26km I had ridden to the train early in the morning.
On top of all that, the road I had just taken was marked with a sign saying that it was closed ahead: 7km ahead, which would be a long way to retrace if I couldn't get through. I tried asking the B&B person on the phone whether she knew anything about the road closure, but it seemed not. Further on, I encountered a woman putting her bins out in front of her house, who - once she'd overcome her shock at being accosted by a strange foreign cyclist in the near-darkness - confirmed that this was the right road to Hradek nad Nisou, but when I tried asking (and miming) about the road closure, merely shrugged. With no conclusive information, and no reasonable detour apparent from the map, it looked as though I was stuck with my "always ignore road closures" principle!
My luck was in: I was able to traverse the roadworks on a temporary pedestrian bridge - the road bridge itself had been completely demolished where it crossed a small stream entering the next small town, Jitrava. It was pitch dark by now and I passed the enticing lights and smells of a restaurant offering Czech specialities, wishing that I could stop, instead of pressing on back into the darkness. Nightfall had also brought the rain which had been threatening in the distance all day, and I rode the final half hour or so to Hradek nad Nisou through a downpour. If I hadn't taken a wrong turn on entry into the town, I'd have made it exactly on my revised ETA of 19.30.
Having checked in to my accommodation, I had to go more or less straight out again to find dinner before all the restaurant kitchens closed. The Czech restaurant recommended by the B&B hostess was completely closed, as it turned out - not even any lights on - so I went back down the hill to a promising-looking pizza & pasta place which I had passed on the way in. This turned out to be takeaway only, so I had to balance the pizza box on my bike - and a bottle of Moravian red wine in the bottle cage! - for a lonely, but COVID-safe, dinner in my bedroom.
Midnight feast in Hradek nad Nisou
After two slices of pizza and a glass of wine, I was so overcome with tiredness that I lay down on the bed and promptly went to sleep for two hours, waking up hungry again for a genuine midnight feast of cold pizza, more wine and rounded off with a dessert of cheesecake!
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2022-10-08T10:30:28Z
Avg Pace:
3:22/km
Elevation:
1617.6
Distance:
135765
Moving time:
27471
Activity id:
7932183894
Strava title:
Castles in the air
Total photo count:
5
Title:
Closing the gap from Prague
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Prague to Hradek nad Nisou
Average speed:
4.942
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/styles/extra/public/field/image/2819/Hrad%20Bezdez%20TG209305%20HDR1%20crop.jpg?itok=Lh6DREEz
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