A hike up an Austrian mountain, with lots of fungi

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After 4½ hours of stand-up paddling yesterday, Caroline's long-term shoulder injury was playing up a bit and she needed a change of activity; also, she's more of a hiking enthusiast than I am, and she was keen to actually go up one of the mountains flanking the Weissensee, rather than just admiring them from below. Poring over the maps in the evening to find a route of suitable length and difficulty for our dubious level of fitness - bearing in mind that we've been living in flat country near sea level for the last two years! - we picked the Laka, a peak with a strange little conical point on the top, on the south side of the lake.

 

The Laka peak (1852m), seen from the lake on yesterday's SUP cruise. Our hiking route took us up the valley on the right, then back down along the spine of the ridge all the way to the meadow visible at the lake shore.

Even that route was a bit on the long side for us, though - knowing how sore one's out-of-condition knees get from a long descent, I was especially worried about the longish flat hike out from the bottom of the mountain back to our accommodation at the end - so we drove to a closer start point, cutting out 4km each way, which doesn't feel like much in the car, but actually saved almost ⅓ of the hiking distance!
It was quite a chilly start as we set off at 07.20, the sun only just beginning to burn off the fog which was hanging over the lake. We soon got into a good hiking rhythm, ascending steadily up a picturesque forest track. 
I'm certain this was the exact same track which I came down in the opposite direction on my bike, on my very first visit to Weissensee all those years ago!

 

My handwritten cycling log of 15th June 1982 describes "A beautiful valley, cows at pasture, a stream, track and woods - storybook Austria!" It hasn't changed a bit in 38 years!

After about an hour and a quarter, we broke out of the forest into a wider valley with sunny pastures and some agricultural buildings at Hermagorer Bodenalm.  Here, many different types of butterflies were sitting in the open enjoying the warm sunshine, while spiders waited in their webs to catch them.

 

Wildlife at Hermagorer Bodenalm

The next part of the ascent was on an agricultural track traversing an open hillside in a generally west to east direction, with a few hairpin bends to gain altitude. Because we were approaching the mountain from the south, the views at this point were of the next adjacent valley, the lake itself being out of sight to the north.  We were getting quite warm from the climb and the sunshine, and we decided to stop for a first raid on our picnic supplies, even though it was still only just after 9am! (We tend to a "little & often" approach to food on our outdoor activities.)

 

View from our picnic stop

After another hour or so, we got back into the treeline, where the hiking trail abruptly - and rather confusingly - turned off the track, heading straight uphill.  We had to cast around a bit looking for the turning, which wasn't exactly in the place suggested by the mapping, and appeared to have been re-routed around the grounds of an isolated house.  Suddenly it was much harder work due to both the gradient and the path surface!  Also, as we were now in quite dense forest, there were no views any more, but instead there was an absolute profusion of different kinds of fungi, to keep us interested and the camera busy!

 

 
 

 

Another 20 minutes' hard slog got us to the spine of the ridge, which we then had to follow for the last 100m or so of altitude to the summit.  This meant that at last we could get occasional glimpses down the north side, through the trees, of the lake far below.

 

Glimpse of the lake and the shore we followed yesterday with our paddle boards. This is pretty much the exact inverse of the photo near the top of this article!

We were hoping for more unobstructed panoramic views from the summit, but it was not to be: the summit was basically just a spot in mid-forest, marked by a small plaque nailed to a tree.  Although we did feel a sense of achievement on reaching it, it was quite an anti-climax really!  We stopped for a selfie, a few swigs from our water bottles, and then headed straight back down again.  The ascent had taken us exactly 4 hours elapsed, 3 hours actual hiking time.

 

Not a lot to see at the summit (except us!)

The way down initially re-traced the last part of our ascent along the ridge, but then, instead of turning off again at the point where we joined it, basically just continued down the spine all the way to valley level, as you can see from the contours on the map. 

 

The map will be interactive once the story is published.

 

 

View westwards over Weissensee, with Techendorf, the village where we were staying, on the right, and the Dolomites mountains beyond

This meant that the lake came into view again from time to time, wherever the forest thinned out (photo above). Mostly, though, we were still walking under dense tree cover, with yet more fungi and some very impressive anthills, which we walked past quickly and cautiously!

 

You really wouldn't want to go stumbling into that anthill!

Eventually we reached lake level - with our knees smarting, as predicted! - and passed the hay meadows which we'd seen from the paddle boards yesterday, where an antique tractor was working to turn the mown hay into very neat rows.  By the time we made it back to the car, we were very glad not to have to do the extra 4km back to our holiday flat!

 

Haymaking at Naggl

 

Type: 
Hike
Date: 
2020-09-05T07:20:21Z
Avg Pace: 
17:28/km
Elevation: 
947.8
Distance: 
18592.1
Moving time: 
19489
Activity id: 
4015459360
Strava title: 
Hike to Laka (1852m)
Total photo count: 
3
Title: 
A hike up an Austrian mountain, with lots of fungi
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Average speed: 
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