Getting into Austria the hard way
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If you look at a map of the Swiss/Austrian border, you'll notice that there are no road passes crossing the mountains between the two countries. All the cross-border links are in the river valleys; in between the rivers, the mountains form such an impenetrable barrier that they are basically the preserve of mountaineers, maybe with the occasional historical mule track. This is why I was so excited when one day I saw the Viderjoch pass marked on a map, which is indeed a mountain pass crossing between the two countries - but only with a gravel track, not a motor road - and at 2723m is almost as high as the legendary Stelvio Pass.
Basically, if you show me a gravel track, I want to try to get along it / up it with a bike - the higher the altitude, the better - and when it is also in an interesting and beautiful location, then I'm hooked.
I started to look for a practical way to incorporate the Viderjoch into one of my cycling routes; ideally as a day trip, to save the weight of overnight kit on my bike and to save on the cost and hassle of accommodation; and ideally starting and finishing in Switzerland, to take advantage of my season ticket on the Swiss railways. Here's what I did.
I started by taking the train to Scuol-Tarasp, the very last station on the Rhaetian Railway network in eastern Switzerland, terminating in the Engadine valley about 30km upstream of the point where the Inn river flows into Austria (one of those river border crossings I mentioned earlier).
To begin with, the road is high up on the valley side, with commanding views down to the river below and across to the slopes on the other side, before swooping down to meet the river in a narrow rocky gorge which barely has space for the road squeezed in beside the river.
As the gorge opens out again, a narrow, dramatic road forks off up the mountainside to the town of Samnaun. This road is basically redundant because there is a newer, wider road to Samnaun slightly further north, passing through Austrian territory; so this narrow old road, with its rock tunnels and precipitous views into the gorge below, is only of interest to people like me who are there to be amazed by the scenery, and I found it almost traffic-free on the day I was there.
Above: tunnel on the Samnaun road, with water cascading past one of the side galleries.
Below: looking down from the road into the deep gorge below Samnaun. 
(I'd been a bit alarmed by the footnote in the Wikipedia article about this road, which said that it is known for being used for highly dangerous unofficial racing; but I assumed that this was unlikely to be happening on a Saturday morning when - as we all know - Swiss people are busy doing their shopping and recycling.)
It took me an hour up this road - including time spent waiting at roadworks traffic lights - to reach Compatsch, a satellite village of Samnaun and the start point for today's main deal, the ascent of Viderjoch. It was 11.30am and I was already some 700m of ascent to the good by this time! In the village street below the imposing white church, I found a water fountain to refill my bottles, and had my first sandwich break.
The Viderjoch trail branches off right beside the church, signposted here and all the way to the top as Swiss Mountain Bike Trail #445 - just be careful not to take the wrong turning where the downhill leg of #445 intersects the uphill leg - it being a kind of multiple figure 8 route starting and finishing in Samnaun itself. At first the trail follows a village street, tarmacked and ridiculously steep (around 20%), and I found myself thinking that if it was going to be this steep all the 10km to the top, maybe I should just give up now! After about 200m, though, on passing the last village houses, the gradient eased at the same time as the road turned to gravel, and became a pleasant and easily rideable track through beautiful wild-flower meadows, with the clang of cowbells taking over from the midday Angelus bell which had been ringing in the village as I started on my way up. The gravel was hard packed and no problem for my 700x35 tyres - with just the occasional steeper and looser section to keep one honest!
So far, so good for the first 500m of elevation (exactly half of the ascent) until the track flattened out into the ski station at Alp Trida, convergence point of several ski lifts, along with a restaurant and other infrastructure. Above Alp Trida, the nature of both the terrain and the trail changed, becoming steeper - up to 30% in places - and more rugged with a looser, stonier surface. I was pushing the bike for probably one-third of this upper section, and it was pretty slow going. Apart from the occasional mountain biker (mostly with electrical assistance - sign of the times), I had only the marmots for company, gambolling by the side of the track.
It was cold at the top, with a brisk north wind having sprung up; I stopped briefly to admire the views in both directions, before heading downhill into Austria to find a warmer spot for my second sandwich.
Below: view from the pass to the north into Austria, towards Idalpe and Ischgl.
(The photo at the top of this article shows the view to the south beyond Samnaun to the peaks of Swiss Graubünden.)
The descent to Ischgl was even longer than the ascent, and once it turned to tarmac after the ski station at Idalpe, I didn't have much chance to admire the view, as I had to give full attention to avoiding the potholes and the partly raised, partly jagged-rusted-edged metal water runnels across the road, which could have slashed my tyres in an instant. I could definitely tell that I had left Switzerland (home of the billiard-table road surface).
The Paznauntal valley is full of pretty little villages and definitely worth a longer stay sometime, but time was pressing, so I only stopped long enough in Ischgl for another water bottle refill before pushing on up the valley to my next pass crossing, thankfully much lower than the one I had just come over. The Zeinisjoch is an absolute backwater - a beautiful and peaceful backwater which I definitely intend to cycle over again - and I wouldn't have known about it at all if I hadn't seen it marked on the quaeldich.de website, which has become my main reference for alpine cycling information. The short ascent was pretty, through meadows and a quiet valley to a picturesque lake at the top.
The longer descent (6km, 600m elevation) to the Montafon valley was stunning and possibly the most fun pass descent I have ridden to date. A narrow but beautifully surfaced road descended in a cascade of tight hairpin bends, through forests and cow pastures, with not a single other vehicle to be seen - no motorbikes, no other cyclists, no locals, no agricultural traffic. I had the whole road entirely to myself. Amazing.
After that it was just a question of grinding out the kilometres, down the valley but against a stiff headwind - with a stop for the mandatory Schnitzel and chips - until I reached Liechtenstein just as the sun was setting, then finally over the border into Switzerland to catch the train at Buchs and be home in Zurich by midnight.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2018-06-23T07:18:26Z
Avg Pace:
3:46/km
Elevation:
3786.5
Distance:
154190
Moving time:
34845
Activity id:
1657588665
Strava title:
Viderjoch roughstuff crossing, with sprint finish to catch the train at Buchs
Total photo count:
16
Title:
Getting into Austria the hard way
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
4.425
Language:
English
Cover image:
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