The Wheel Turns Full Circle
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11 days ago we began our Croatia tour by getting off the Zagreb-Split train in the middle of the night and starting our first bike ride from there. Reluctantly, after an exciting and unforgettable time, here we are going back the other way. Same railway line, different station, much the same time of night!
For the last 24 hours we had been based at the Linden Tree Retreat & Ranch - which we thoroughly recommend, and hope to go back there ourselves for a longer stay - at Velika Plana, a very isolated valley with just 17 permanent inhabitants, just outside Croatia's Velebit National Park. As we sipped our reviving post-arrival evening drinks (hers: the house's own microbrewery beer; his: a local craft gin), the dog started barking towards the forest.
"Something up there", opined Megi the chef, "most likely a bear." "Are there lots of bears around here then?" asked Caroline in slight alarm. "Oh yes - someone even recorded a dashcam video of a bear on the streets of Gospic [the nearest larger town] at 2am just a couple of nights ago." "Errrr... we're off to Gospic tomorrow night to catch a 2am train........!!"
The next day - the last of our holiday - we ventured voluntarily into bear territory on a wonderful off-road route recommended by Bruce (the proprietor of Linden Tree); then, after another of Megi's fabulous dinners, we loaded up the bikes at about 10pm to hit the road for Gospic.
We ran into a snag while loading when we found that the rear tyre on my bike had gone soft - more so than just needing a routine top-up (which I had done the previous day) - it obviously had a slow puncture. I really didn't fancy the idea of the slow puncture turning fast halfway to Gospic, with a fully loaded bike and a train to catch, and having to effect repairs at the roadside in the dark in the middle of bear country. I considered Bruce's offer of transport for ourselves and the bikes to the station, but then decided to just pump the tyre and assume that it would hold. Time for a quick endorsement of my Lezyne pump, a portable pump which actually works! Having wasted my money in the past on portable pumps which didn't work (failed to achieve the required tyre pressure, and/or damaged the valve in the process) I recommend the Lezyne as a "must have", and it isn't even all that expensive.
After final goodbyes, we headed off nervously into the night. Caroline was jittery every time a dog barked (she'd had a nasty incident earlier in the day with some farm dogs running at her). I was jittery every time I went over a bump in the road, feeling for any sign of tyre softness. Both of us were keen to get this ride over, and we clocked our first and only 20+ km/h average speed of any ride on the tour, assisted by the route being basically flat / slightly downhill.
We reached Gospic station shortly before midnight - still not having seen any bears! - with 2 hours to spare before our train. Like Gracac where we got off before, there was a spacious and unlocked waiting room; unlike Gracac it was in a new and almost impossibly grandiose building - marble floors and huge plate-glass windows - but, like Gracac, there were no working lights in the loos. Must be a Croatian thing! I wish I'd photographed the Gospic waiting room, for contrast with the comfortable shabbiness of Gracac (see my earlier post), but evidently my mind was focused on the journey and it's too late to think of taking the photo now.
Tour Retrospective
It was only when we were telling people we met about the contrast with our 1984 tour that we realised that this was, in fact, our first extended cycle tour together (meaning more than just a long weekend) since that very time. Now we have got back into it (and how!), we hope to be doing more quite soon. Time for a quick retrospective to see what lessons we can take forward to the next time.
We saw loads of available overnight accommodation and I'd consider finding accommodation as we go next time, rather than pre-booking; which would give us more flexibility to vary our itinerary according to weather conditions and how interesting/fun we are finding a particular location.
Our preparedness for bad weather was an issue, although I really dislike wet-weather gear, and it takes up a lot of carrying space when not in use, and in principle I'd rather just avoid riding in bad weather if at all possible. Something to think about.
The bikes worked flawlessly until the very last day, when I had a soft tyre and Caroline's gears started graunching a bit in certain ratios. No concerns at all about the bikes themselves.
For night riding, my Moon Meteor Storm Pro front light was literally brilliant, much brighter than Caroline's dynamo light and most of the time we rode side by side so that she could also see by the light of mine. It also made a very good torch when detached from the bike (e.g. for seeing one's way in unlit Croatian station toilets!)
I felt that our packing/loading concept was fairly successful. Having our electronics and reserve clothes in a marine-grade dry bag (the yellow bag on top of my pannier rack) gave us the confidence that they would stay dry even in a deluge. Caroline took a backpack strapped to her pannier rack, which gave us an alternative carrying option for times when we were off the bikes. It was really secure and stable on the rack except for, curiously, the very first and last short rides to and from Zurich Airport railway station, when it tried to escape off sideways. The dry bag was also backpackable if needed. For a future tour, if we could manage with less kit, I'd consider both taking backpacks rather than panniers (which are awkward off the bike).
The only real let-down was my Vaude handlebar bag, which I had bought specifically for this tour, to keep my camera (and other small essentials) ready for instant access. It failed miserably to deliver on the mission brief. It was awkward to get into for quick shots, difficult to load efficiently, the design was poorly thought out and cheapskately executed (is "cheapskately" a word??) e.g. by making the top flap about half the length it really needed to be for effective weatherproofing. In summary, a rubbish piece of kit (and it wasn't even cheap!) and if anyone has any better recommendations for carrying an SLR camera on a bicycle, I'd love to hear them please.
Could we have managed with less kit? We wore - and needed - every single item of clothing we packed. The only things we didn't use were the bike spares and tools (because nothing broke), the champagne saver (!!), and our small bottle of washing-up liquid and half-dozen dishwasher tablets (because they were provided at the accommodation). Maybe *three* lenses for the Nikon was overkill, but I did use them all, and photography is "what I do"... Anyway we will definitely be scrutinising the packing list to see if we can cut down at all - although the bike actually felt pretty good on the road, even uphill. Will probably leave out the champagne saver ;)
Web resources
Croatian railways FAQ page with list of all trains which take bikes:
http://www.hzpp.hr/en/f-a-q?p=361
Site with info on train formations (where's the bicycle carriage, where are your reserved seats?):
http://www.vagonweb.cz/razeni/?&lang=en
Bikes on ferries information page:
http://www.pedala.hr/bikes-on-ferries/
(Tip: once on this page, selecting and web-searching the ferry number string, e.g. "Trajekt linija 338", will find the PDF timetable for the route.)
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2017-09-23T20:03:34Z
Avg Pace:
2:49/km
Elevation:
113.2
Distance:
28448.9
Moving time:
4799
Activity id:
1198319817
Strava title:
Velika Plana to Gospic (at midnight!)
Total photo count:
1
Title:
The Wheel Turns Full Circle
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
5.928
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/VkiDy76kpIm-jTgbqW4PGHApEoexecMgZu0FykUxXys-1024x576.jpg
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