How a failed brake led to an unplanned ride up the Stelvio Pass
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The view from the Stelvio Pass towards the Umbrail.
The end of yesterday's ride saw me nicely positioned overnight in Santa Caterina Valfurva, ready to execute my "Plan A" for Saturday - which involved a morning assault on the rest of the Gavia Pass, followed by the Mortirolo Pass, the high altitude Monte Padrio ridge road, and finally a descent of the Passo di Trivigno to Tirano, where I would catch an early evening train back to Zurich (where I was living at the time).
All this depended, though, on having a bike with two working brakes, as those huge pass descents wouldn't be safe otherwise. My back brake was barely gripping at all, and defied all my attempts to adjust it. I was so worried about it that I was awake at 3am downloading the manual from the brake manufacturer's website (which unfortunately didn't have much in the way of troubleshooting hints), and looking for cycling forum posts describing similar problems and solutions. In the morning I had another go at it before breakfast, again without achieving any improvement.
Plan B, if I couldn't get the brake working in Santa Caterina, involved returning back down to Bormio to find a bike shop to fix it, skipping the Gavia Pass (due to lack of time) and going straight to the Mortirolo; Plan C, if I couldn't get it repaired at all, would be a gentle bumble along the valley to Tirano and the train home.
On checking out of the (extremely hospitable, economically priced and highly recommended) Park Hotel, I asked the proprietress if she knew of a bike mechanic in the village and she promptly ran out into the street shouting "Sergio! Sergio!" to attract the attention of a man on the other side of the bridge across the little river which runs through the village. Long story short, Sergio and his mate (who run a bike rental business) were unable to fix the brake but gave me directions to "the best bike repair shop in Bormio", who they were sure could sort me out. Time to activate Plan B, then, and (carefully) sacrifice the 13km and 500 elevation metres which I had toiled up at the end of the previous day.
But even as the mechanic worked on my bike, the germ of a Plan D came into my mind. Here I was in Bormio, at the foot of the renowned Stelvio Pass, on an utterly glorious early summer day with blue skies and gentle cooling breezes.
I missed out on riding the Stelvio last year (I had done it for the first time in 2016), and I reckoned that today was likely to be the best opportunity that would come my way for this year (2018). I thought I should have enough time to ride up the Stelvio, across to and down the adjacent Umbrail Pass which would take me back into Switzerland, westwards over the Fuorn Pass to reach the railway at Zernez, and be home in Zurich (where we were living at the time) in time for bed. I used my mobile phone to check the train times from Zernez, to make sure.
By the time the mechanic handed my bike back to me, with the brake fully functioning in return for just 10 Euros, my mind was made up.
The Stelvio road is stunning from the very start of its 20-odd kilometres out of Bormio, with rough-hewn tunnels, steep cliffs, tumbling waterfalls, and ever-increasing views as the road winds its way upwards through 40 hairpin bends. (The other side has 48!)
As it turned out, I really couldn't have had a better day for it, because there was an event taking place (a charity ride organised by a group of Belgian cycle clubs, as far as I could tell) and the pass had been closed to motor traffic. The Carabinieri had a road block just a couple of kilometres outside Bormio and were turning back all the cars and motorbikes. This meant that the road was wonderfully peaceful, with only a few hundred other cyclists for company - nearly (but not quite) all of them going faster than me! I was the only one carrying a touring load, though. (If you're wondering why you can see motor vehicles in the photo at the top of this article, it's because the police released a convoy of vehicles to descend at lunchtime, when I took the picture.)
Photo by the official event photographer
It took me about 3 hours to reach the top, taking it very steadily and really enjoying the whole ride. At the top, I took the mandatory summit selfie, and enjoyed the view while eating the delicious and substantial packed lunch provided by Park Hotel.
The three pass summits I "collected" on today's ride - two of which qualify for the "top 10 in Europe"
The Umbrail Pass was a completely different proposition to the Stelvio: the road much narrower (fortunately with very little traffic, although the motorbikes were annoying at times) and an interminable cascade of extremely tight hairpin bends. The disc brakes on my bike were very soon literally on song - the rear squeaking and the front groaning. I was glad I had them both working perfectly! I'm not sure I would really find the Umbrail very enjoyable in the uphill direction.
Here's a panoramic view near the top of the Umbrail:
And, further down the pass road, here's looking into the Mustair valley - with my next target, the Fuorn Pass (Ofenpass in German), appearing as an insignificant little notch in the ridge beyond; hmm - don't be fooled!
At the foot of the Umbrail Pass, in Santa Maria Mustair, I refilled my water bottles from a lovely cool public spring, and then immediately set about tackling the next ascent - a long steady grind up the valley towards the Ofenpass, with a few steep hairpin bends at the top, in the full heat of the day with very little shade. I found it tough going, and didn't even have the psychological boost of enjoying the wonderful scenery, as I was pretty maxed out on mountain scenery by now! I drove myself on to get to the top without stopping, where I had promised myself a snack and an electrolyte drink to fortify myself for the 200m additional climb to the last "false summit" before Zernez. Didn't want to stop on the main climb because I was afraid I'd find it difficult to get going again!
After the Fuorn Pass, the road dips down a spectacular river valley to its lowest point (at which the Livigno Tunnel branches off southwards into Italy) prior to that "false summit". I had clearly got my expectation management (and nutrition) just right, because that final ascent turned out much easier than I had feared - in fact I was able to cruise almost the whole way up on the big chainring!
At last it was downhill all the way to Zernez, where I arrived with 20mins to spare before the train I had originally aimed for - enough time for my bike to be admired (always a nice feeling!) by a Swiss couple who said they are looking to buy new load-capable touring bikes and were keen to have my recommendation.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2018-06-16T06:58:54Z
Avg Pace:
4:44/km
Elevation:
3013.4
Distance:
86448.7
Moving time:
24519
Activity id:
1642363497
Strava title:
Plan D: Stelvio, Umbrail, Fuorn passes
Total photo count:
9
Title:
How a failed brake led to an unplanned ride up the Stelvio Pass
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
(none of which was on the original agenda for this weekend!)
Average speed:
3.526
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/9fe11073-9eef-4bfe-850d-73e18a312133.jpg
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