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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland

Val Alpisella roughstuff crossing


Last summer (2017) I planned three different routes to Bormio from the railway station at Ospizio Bernina - intended as a positioning ride before tackling the Stelvio Pass from the Bormio side. As it happens, the Stelvio ride didn't take place that summer, but the routes stayed on file. One was a purely road route, while the other two included different degrees of "roughstuff" - the idea was to choose the route appropriate to the preferences of whoever I was riding with.
Fast forward to June 2018 and I activated the tougher of the two roughstuff routes, Val Viola. 
https://storyteller.fit/story/3836 
It was rough all right, involving quite a lot of "hike-a-bike", and resulting in the only puncture to date (in some 3000km) which defeated the sealant in my tubeless tyres.
Now I wanted to get to Bormio again - to tackle the Gavia Pass, still missing from my collector card of the 10 highest passes in Europe - so this time I activated the other roughstuff option, the Val Alpisella, which connects the tax-free enclave of Livigno with the reservoir-lakes of Cancano and San Giacomo above Bormio.

An unsociably early 5.40 train from Zurich Airport delivered me eventually, via several changes, to Ospizio Bernina just after 10.30. The weather was fine, and I made short work of the initial descent of the Bernina Pass and ascent of the Forcola di Livigno, from the point where the two passes intersect.

It was the first time I'd been to Livigno, a real tourist honeypot which I would recommend avoiding in August, on the basis of today's experience!
Once I turned off the lakeside trail onto the pass, though, the crowds instantly vanished, and I found a peaceful spot beside the trail to enjoy my packed lunch.
This is my first tour since swapping tyres from the Schwalbe G-One Allround (original equipment when I bought this bike) to the Hutchinson Overide. By accident I seem to have hit the tyre pressure sweet spot to maximise both free-rolling on tarmac and traction on gravel - but I have no idea what it is, because I gave both tyres a top-up after getting off the train, and my portable pump doesn't have a gauge! Anyway, the bike was almost indecently fast on the descents - I found myself stuck behind some motorbikes and wanting to overtake them, that's a first! - and coped with aplomb with all the gravel ascents: hardly any loss of traction, and no walking at all. I'm forced to revise my opinion, based on the initial shakedown rides, that the Hutchinsons are less grippy than the Schwalbes on gravel. I now reckon they are equally good, if not even perhaps a smidgin better.

The only negative about this route was the amount of mountainbike traffic: the e-mountainbikes going too fast uphill, and the normal ones going too fast downhill. In many places the trail was too narrow for safe avoidance, and I was constantly worried that someone would come belting round the next corner and barge me off into the abyss. Thankfully, it didn't happen, and I reached the summit unscathed at about 13.30.

The descent was quite long, not too steep and reasonably straightforward (insofar as downhill on gravel ever is!), with great views of the surrounding mountains (picture at the top), and goats roaming the track (picture below).

After reaching the twin reservoirs, the track became pretty boring - wide and flat with a headwind - and was marked as closed along the north side of the second lake, which I ignored after seeing a posse of mountainbikers come through the barrier in the other direction! This section has a long unlit tunnel, so bring lights if you plan on doing this route. Still, there were some nice views across the lakes and back towards the pass, and the dam wall on the lower lake was spectacular.



Below the dam, the trail connects to the descent of the Passo Torri di Fraele, where a flight of 17 hairpin bends was built to bring the road up for the reservoir construction traffic.
http://www.quaeldich.de/paesse/passo-torri-di-fraele/ 
Originally there was even trolleybus-style overhead cabling to power the electric construction lorries! The twin ruined towers (the "Torri" of the name) stand guard above the two short rocky tunnels at the top of the pass.

Finally, after a short stop in Bormio to fill water bottles and take shelter under a shop awning from a brief shower, the last hour was spent slogging up another 500m of rather dull climb to reach Santa Caterina di Valfurva, my overnight stop and jumping-off point for the Gavia Pass tomorrow.


https://www.relive.cc/view/1758528003

Type: 
Ride
Workout_type: 
default
Date: 
2018-08-08T08:50:41Z
Avg Pace: 
3:50/km
Elevation: 
2020
Distance: 
76114.3
Moving time: 
17524
Activity id: 
1758528003
Strava title: 
Val Alpisella roughstuff crossing + positioning for Gavia Pass
Total photo count: 
8
Title: 
Val Alpisella roughstuff crossing
Summary Polyline: 
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Average speed: 
4.343
Language: 
English
Cover image: 
https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/7GC1D_cmRegrMesd2KrOCjuwxAfuLdACqR4PHiNUD5U-1024x576.jpg
StreamLatLng: 
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StreamDistances: 
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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland
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