Des Étoiles aux Canyons
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As you'll have gathered if you've been following this tour blog, there's been quite a lot of what I like to call "dynamic route planning" going on, and today was no exception. I had originally intended to spend one more night at altitude before dashing back to Zurich for my Thursday lunchtime flight, but changed my mind and preferred to have less risk and more slack in the schedule.
The day began with a prompt start from Ospizio Bernina, where I'd stayed overnight. It was another gloriously sunny morning, the mountains were gleaming on the far side of the reservoir, and I wasn't in such a hurry that I couldn't stop for a photo or two.
I began by freewheeling back down the same pass road I'd come up the previous evening, as far as Pontresina, where I picked up Swiss Cycle Route #65 following the River Inn downstream.
I was headed for La-Punt-Chamues-ch (extraordinary names some of these Engadine villages have! Everyone seems to just call it La Punt), the foot of the Albula Pass, and I urgently needed to find a bakery to augment my somewhat rushed breakfast. I seemed to recall that there wasn't much in the way of habitation and refreshment opportunities further up the Albula until the top (and I wasn't wrong), but luckily a very fine bakery appeared right beside the bike path as I reached La Punt.
As I sat in the sunshine enjoying my second breakfast, I spotted a poster advertising a bike shop only 150m away - and that sorted out my other urgent need for the day. "But you were only at a bike shop yesterday!", you cry. Indeed so - but the brake disc they fitted wasn't up to the job, which unfortunately I hadn't noticed immediately, as I was headed *up* the pass after the bike shop stop. Good luck to me trying to get my money back.
Thus off - a few tens of Swiss francs lighter and a superior brake disc heavier - up the Albula Pass, which is actually a doddle from this side as it's "only" 625m above the Inn valley floor at La Punt. It's over double that height difference on the other side, as you can see from the height graph on my route map above. I decided to do it without stopping - to prove that I could, and to see if I could match my theoretical climb rate of 600m/hour (answer: almost) and honestly nothing whatever to do with wanting to massage my Strava stats and/or to stay ahead of the elderly couple following me on e-bikes! Anyway, this explains why there are no photos from the east side ascent, until right at the top.
It was still too early for lunch, so I eschewed the pass-summit hostelry and went barrelling down the fabulous descent - with the exuberance that can only come from having one's brakes properly sorted! The terrain is much more open than e.g. the Stelvio, which means fewer hairpins but terrific panoramic views. I stopped for a pizza lunch in Bergun - a pretty and historic village - according to the info board at the pass summit, it was a staging post for the mail traffic between Venice and Paris as early as the 17th century! These days it has a station on the World Heritage Albula Railway.
By now I was on Swiss Cycle Route #6 (Graubünden Route) and I was keen to do the section between Tiefencastel and Thusis, where the river flows through an amazing deep canyon with rock pinnacles topped by castles like something out of The Lord of the Rings. I've been through there a few times on the train and it's a complete wow. My expectation was that the bike trail would basically follow the railway and that I'd be able to enjoy all those same views which rush past on the train, take as much time as I want, and come away with great photos.
It turned out to be a real disappointment - the bike trail is routed away from the actual gorge, over the shoulder of the adjacent hill. Eventually it did descend to the gorge at the dramatic "Solis bridge".
Right after that, though, the bike route was signed into a 1.1km-long tunnel, single carriageway main road with no bike lane and lots of lorry traffic coming from Italy via the Julier Pass. At this I drew the line - instead, I retraced the route as far as Tiefencastel and caught the train from there. Rather a deflating way to end what has been a very exciting tour.
Tomorrow morning will be spent dismantling and packing the "Titanium Devil" (as I call my bike) and entrusting it to the tender care of Aeroflot for the flight to Delhi via Moscow. Here ends the warm-up; let the real adventure commence!
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2019-06-26T05:49:25Z
Avg Pace:
3:26/km
Elevation:
1071.5
Distance:
79186.7
Moving time:
16326
Activity id:
2481987897
Strava title:
Ospizio Bernina - Albula Pass (2315m) - Tiefencastel
Total photo count:
10
Title:
Des Étoiles aux Canyons
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Acclimatisation tour day 6 - ended back at Zurich Airport at 432m
Average speed:
4.85
Language:
English
Cover image:
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