Day 3: Back down to the plains at Palani
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There was a fair amount of cloud swirling about and a fresh breeze blowing, which made it feel surprisingly cool as we got ready for our 9am start. Considering the heat of the last few days, it seemed odd to be layering up in our softshell jackets for the initial descent through the shady forests below Kodaikanal.
The first couple of km of argy-bargy through the town traffic passed off uneventfully (thank goodness). The jumble of roadside stalls were freshly stocked with produce of all kinds - the fresh root vegetables were especially striking.
We began by retracing the route we arrived by two days ago https://storyteller.fit/story/6904 for 10km or so, past the Silver Cascade Falls and then on past more smaller waterfalls in a deep and unspoilt gorge, which was much more photogenic!
Once we diverged from our previous route, we began climbing steadily again, traversing a mountainside with views both back towards Kodaikanal, and down to the plains to the north with the Palar Dam lake.
We passed coffee plantations, and at one place the people had spread the coffee beans on the hot tarmac road to dry. As we were in a good climbing rhythm I didn't stop to photograph them, which I instantly regretted and have regretted ever since, as we haven't seen that done anywhere else before or since! Near the top of the ridge there were very elaborate terraced fields - we identified crops including cucumbers, and plum trees decked prettily in their white blossom.
At the crest, at about 1750m altitude, there was a small cluster of shops where we had a refreshment stop before launching into the long descent. Raju, our tour leader, had laid in a stock of our favourite red bananas, and the tea shop produced the nearest thing we've yet been offered to a classic double espresso. (You'd have thought that in a coffee growing region you'd find every possible choice of how to have your coffee served - you'd be wrong!)
The stopping place didn't have a view down the side where we were headed, so the moment we moved off we had to immediately stop again for photos!
And a minute or two after that - "Puncture!" - we were stopping again. I was riding at the back so I yelled to get the others to wait for me. Indeed, my rear tyre was spraying a mist of tubeless sealant, but hadn't gone noticeably soft and so I decided that the best strategy was to keep on riding which would keep sloshing the sealant around the tyre and help it seal up again.
We recalled that at one of the photo stops, we realised too late that the roadside was full of broken glass, checked our tyres and thought we had got away with it…
The 1400m descent to the Palar Dam - which we had seen from far above earlier - was magnificent, with oodles of zillions of hairpin bends, road surface and traffic much less scary than our guides had led us to expect, and fabulous views - including of the Palani Murugan Temple hill at our destination, standing in the plain below surrounded by coconut palm plantations (you can just make it out to the left of centre in the far distance in the photo below).
My punctured rear tyre held up - with a couple of pumpings and a bit more oozage of sealant; the worst alarm was when Caroline accidentally locked her back brake and went into a huge zigzag skid - I was convinced I was about to witness her fall off and go cartwheeling down the hill in front of me and I started to take evasive action - but she heroically managed to regain control and, after a short break to allow heart rates to settle, we were ok to continue.
You can see her skid mark going from top left to bottom right in this picture:
We took our lunch break at the last hairpin bend - that's our support vehicle parked in the layby - where an observation tower afforded shade and a view of the depleted Palar Dam lake, with grazing cattle and many white egrets on the lush grass where there should have been water.
As the last 12km from here to our accommodation promised to be hot, flat and boring, and Caroline's injured shoulder was aching from the long downhill, she withdrew to the support vehicle and left Keshu and me to finish.
Our hotel was in a teeming market area just below the Muragan Temple, with a great view of the temple hill from the balcony of our room; which turned out to be a mixed blessing, as there happened to be an all-night religious festival that night!
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2020-02-21T08:50:29Z
Avg Pace:
3:10/km
Elevation:
1149
Distance:
63944.8
Moving time:
12157
Activity id:
3118424007
Strava title:
Back down to the plains at Palani
Total photo count:
6
Title:
Day 3: Back down to the plains at Palani
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Average speed:
5.26
Language:
English
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