Rest day: Wildlife walk to Thoovanam Waterfalls
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Being the only two "punters" on this cycle tour, we were able to request a few tweaks to the itinerary: the main one was to add an extra rest day here in Marayoor, breaking up four fairly arduous cycling days into 2 plus 2.
I'd asked Raju, the tour manager, if he could organise a wildlife watching trip - as I'd seen from the map that we would be staying right by the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary - and he rose to the challenge by fixing this walk with Rajesh, a local trekking guide. Here is his selfie with the "Bretts on safari" 😁
You'll see from the picture that we are wearing lightweight running shoes - there was no way we could have fitted hiking boots into our already over-full suitcases - and this almost literally proved to be my downfall, as I'll explain later!
To enter the Wildlife Sanctuary, we had to get permits from the Forestry Office and to be accompanied by one of their staff. Normally the office only opens at 9 on a Sunday, but Rajesh had arranged for someone to come at 8 for us. We took an auto-rickshaw down from the hotel.
While waiting for the forestry staff to arrive, we had our very first wildlife encounter right there: a pair of Great Grizzled Squirrels in the trees beside the Forestry Centre.
The destination for the walk was the Thoovanam Waterfalls, which we'd seen from the road on our way up to Marayoor yesterday https://storyteller.fit/story/6922
Off we set down the sandy path, with the Forestry guy leading, Rajesh next, then me and Caroline, and Keshu - our cycling guide who had come along as porter/minder (horribly colonial, isn't it?!) - bringing up the rear.
Very soon, we had our next wildlife encounter as a Gaur, or Indian Bison, came into view under the trees just a short distance away from the path. We caught a glimpse through the undergrowth of the rest of its family group before they moved away.
Descending the steep valley side on a loose gravelly surface, suddenly one foot slid away from under me and I went sprawling backwards. I was hand-carrying my Nikon with the huge Sigma 150-600mm lens - no case - and my desperate struggle to regain balance saved the camera, but at the cost of a severely pulled right quad. I could barely hobble for a while, and Rajesh was assiduous after that in giving me his steadying hand every time the terrain got even slightly awkward. It took me a bit of mental adjustment to get fully into the role of "crocked old man on safari"!
The Forestry guide (whose name we never learned) was toting a smaller Nikon, and obviously knew how to use it. He also had the most incredible laser eyesight for spotting birds. Time and again he pointed saying "there!" and all I could see was foliage. Still, I got quite a few good shots with his help.
Above: Coppersmith Barbets
Below: possibly a Golden-fronted Leafbird
Above & below: not managed to identify these yet
In fairness to myself, I was the one who first spotted the Hoopoe:
Our route took us down an almost-dry tributary of the main Pambar River, with its wide bed of flattened rocks with intriguing ringed rock pools, and interesting trees growing on either side.
Two especially striking trees were one which has flowers but no leaves, and one which has striking crimson fruits which open up on the tree revealing black seeds, which (according to our guides) are hallucinogenic. We didn't put this to the test!
After a couple of hours or so - largely spent staring through the camera at apparently nonexistent birds! - we reached the Waterfalls, which entailed rock-hopping across the river. Keshu - whose "day job" is a mountaineering guide in the Himalayas - took charge of the Nikon for this bit, while Rajesh helped us oldies across.
The falls themselves - although only carrying a tiny fraction of the water they have in the rainy season - were truly mesmerising. I could have spent all day there photographing them and Caroline could have all day just watching and listening.
We ate our packed lunches beside the falls, and then headed back down, recrossing the river at a slightly easier point downstream. I had put in a request for butterflies if possible on the way back - Rajesh and the Forestry guide went into a conference about it said they would see what they could find.
There were a few solitary butterflies flitting about which were very tricky to bring the camera to bear on; then all of a sudden we were confronted with a literal cloud of them!
They appeared to be congregating around animal footholes in the soft ground around a watering hole; presumably to gather moisture - though none of us had ever seen such behaviour before. Most of them were a fairly plain whitish species, with just the occasional more brightly coloured ones joining in.
Rajesh, the Forestry guy and I all had our cameras out shooting away to capture this phenomenon, while Keshu amd Caroline waited in the shade. As well as some amazing photos, this also had the welcome side effect that we were rested before the final haul back up to the road in the midday heat, and to our rendezvous with the auto-rickshaw to take us back to the hotel for a shower and a welcome rest in the cool.
Type:
Walk
Date:
2020-02-23T08:38:38Z
Avg Pace:
18:34/km
Elevation:
264.8
Distance:
5977.9
Moving time:
6659
Activity id:
3124178220
Strava title:
Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary guided walk
Total photo count:
6
Title:
Rest day: Wildlife walk to Thoovanam Waterfalls
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Beasts, birds and butterflies - LOTS of photo stops!
Average speed:
0.898
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/0578f6fc-855b-4807-9014-785e9f199f27.jpg
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