Day 4: From Temple to Tiger Reserve - but still no tigers
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We had an early start today - nominal 07.30 - because the route took us 40km through flatlands from our overnight stop in Palani before ascending back into the hills, and we wanted to complete the flatland section before the day got too hot: 36°C was forecast for midday and early afternoon.
The map will be interactive once the story is published.
After the puncture on yesterday's ride https://storyteller.fit/story/6908 I had gone back to the bike later in the afternoon, checked that the rear tyre was still holding air (it was) and then added more sealant to replace what had been lost. (I accidentally put in the entire contents of my reserve bottle of sealant - I had meant to use half - so I hope I don't have any more tyre problems on this tour!)
Also, before we started this morning, I got Raju to pump it up to only 40psi instead of my usual 55psi, as the lower pressure would be less likely to burst through the sealant repair (I also felt that the crew's track pump was delivering more pressure than shown on the gauge, which wasn't helping).
Leaving the hotel, our route led initially over a causeway across the lake, with flocks of white egrets standing in the shallows (the traffic was too busy for a photo stop), then through a bustling market area, then through the rather depressing slums on the edge of town, before settling into our route across country through coconut, mango, rice and sugar cane plantations.
Above: coconut
Below: mango
Above: a rice straw stack
Below: a cow with its attendant egret(s) - finally managed to get the shot I'd been yearning for!
We passed through the village of Kolumam, where Caroline drew my attention to a fish market which was in progress, with colourfully clad vendors and amazing-looking fish (though covered in flies!).
Also, spot the deity Murugan riding on his peacock again, on the poster in the background! (See the story of our visit to the Murugan Temple, https://storyteller.fit/story/6909 )
Leaving the village, the road crossed a bridge over the severely depleted Amaravathi River, where crowds of people were gathered on the rock flats to wash themselves and their clothes in what little water remained.
Just beyond this bridge, after our first hour's riding, we stopped for our first snack stop, and again after another hour, at a coffee shack on the edge of the Anamalai Tiger Reserve.
Soon after the coffee stop, we reached the check point entering the Reserve. My rear tyre needed pumping yet again at this point. We were allowed through the barrier under strict instructions not to stop; the support vehicle changed station to follow behind us at our cycling speed - much to the chagrin of other following drivers! - keeping us in view at all times, presumably to render speedy assistance in case of breakdown or tiger attack. (Given that there are only 15 tigers in the Reserve, and that they are mainly nocturnal, this was never a serious likelihood!)
Although there were many signs warning of elephants crossing, we had no mammal sightings at all except for monkeys. Lots of birds and butterflies were flitting around. The landscape was quite parched and dry, with a predominance of brown, yellow and orange hues - suddenly I could quite see why tigers have orange stripes! There were trees we didn't know the names of, including one with a distinctive flat umbrella-like canopy:
And a cactus tree with flower buds, resembling an oversized Christmas Cactus:
The road followed a valley between steep hills, before going up two or three rather steep hairpin bends over the shoulder of one of the hills, and back down again to the Chinnar River which marks the border between Tamil Nadu and Kerala states, as well as the end of the Tiger Reserve. The bridge and adjacent tea house were almost overrun with monkeys - including a young couple sitting on the bridge parapet cuddling in a very human-like fashion!
We took the bags and bottles off our bikes and retreated into the tea house to eat our lunch, use the facilities and photograph some butterflies on the flowers out the back.
Caroline opted out of the afternoon session as her shoulder injury was bothering her (she fell off her bike just before Christmas and it was a close thing getting rehabilitated to do this tour at all.)
On the Kerala side of the state boundary, the nature reserve continues as Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary. Keshu and I pushed on, ascending more steadily now as the road climbed a side valley, the Pambar River, towards our overnight destination at Marayoor. There were splendid views over the valley, the river, and the Thoovanam Waterfall (more about this tomorrow!)
Once again, lots of signage warned of animals crossing the road, and once again we saw absolutely nothing - until we had almost reached Marayoor - and a rustling in the trees on a bluff overlooking a curve in the road made me look up and see the hulking shapes and huge curved horns of two Indian Bison. One of them had lumbered off by the time I had got my camera to bear, but I managed a couple of shots at the other.
Our accommodation for the next two nights - tomorrow is a rest day - is in a splendidly preserved colonial guest house, with a massive teak staircase round a semi-enclosed internal quad with a goldfish pond. Our first-floor suite consists of a wood-panelled sitting room and bedroom, with pitched ceilings and electric fans, plus a dressing room, bathroom, and both external and internal balconies.
We could imagine we were senior civil servants on a tour of inspection! The opulence was somewhat let down by seriously dodgy electrics, but the place certainly has character in abundance!
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2020-02-22T07:50:32Z
Avg Pace:
3:26/km
Elevation:
1592.2
Distance:
72346.4
Moving time:
14894
Activity id:
3120979393
Strava title:
From Temple to Tiger Reserve - still no tigers but we did see bison
Total photo count:
9
Title:
Day 4: From Temple to Tiger Reserve - but still no tigers
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
4.857
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/8b9dfed9-f1d6-45fb-9c6c-ff79d2600c7d.jpg
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