Day 7: Spice Garden and Tea Factory tours with incidental bike ride
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Our hotel in Thekkady - despite the wacky architecture - was the best of the tour by a significant margin: quiet, spacious, comfortable, and the only one with a useable swimming pool - which happened to be 10 paces from our room. We were sorry to be leaving! Still, we were ready to go on the exact dot of 9am as planned, despite having to pump my rear tyre which decided to sulk again today. It had been perfectly fine for the last couple of days' riding and I had begun to think it was definitively fixed.
Our route took us into and through the adjacent town of Kumily and then out of town towards the west; but only for 20 minutes, before stopping at the Green Land Spice Garden, where a tour had been arranged for us. This had been an option for us on the rest day yesterday, but we went to the Tiger Reserve instead ( https://storyteller.fit/story/6954 ), so as the Spice Garden was on our route, we fitted it in today.
Above: a hibiscus flower at the Spice Garden
Below: citron flowers and fruit
Our guide was a really lovely and knowledgeable young woman, Tindu, who has a botany degree and speaks perfect English. We saw lots of plants whose seeds or leaves we were familiar with but had never seen the actual plant before - vanilla, for instance, or a nutmeg tree, or cloves. We learned all sorts of new and interesting things. Did you know, for instance, that cloves are not seeds but unopened flower buds of the clove tree? And that the black cloves which we are familiar with in Europe are the husks left over after the clove oil has been extracted - pre-extraction, the clove is reddish-brown, which are the best ones to buy if you can.
Above: clove flower buds
Below: green peppercorns just turning red
The red cloves - amongst many other spices - were on sale in their small roadside shop, along with locally made chocolate which we bought as a treat for the next days and appears to be formulated with a specially high melting point for Indian conditions. Even the white chocolate showed no sign of going at all soft at ambient temperatures in the mid 30s °C. Not sure how they do it, as the ingredients are no different to those we are familiar with (milk solids, cocoa butter, sugar, vanillin, soya lecithin).
Above: cocoa pod, outside and inside
Below: coffee - left: ripe fruits; right top to bottom: flowers, unripe fruits, beans (2 in each fruit)
Above: believe it or not, these are both aubergines
Below: vanilla plant
Back onto our bikes we climbed - but only for another 20mins! - when a little fragment of the Emerald Isle hove into view.
Raju, our tour leader, had arranged a tea factory tour for us. I asked the guide why "Connemara" - he said that one theory is that the Tamil language for "Virgin Mary" sounds very like "Connemara" - this is a very Catholic area (due to the influence of Portuguese settlers) and many businesses are named after the Blessed Virgin Mary or other saints. Even the trucks and buses bear saints' names in huge letters above the cabs.
The Connemara tea factory (built in 1941) uses the CTC process - Crushing, Tearing, Curling (nothing whatsoever to do with the Cyclists' Touring Club!) to make pulverised tea for the domestic Indian market, not posh leaf tea for export. (We learned that the Irish are the most prolific tea drinking nation, at 2.8kg per head of adult population, ahead of the Brits at 2.6kg; India weighs in at a paltry 650g!)
Our tour started out in the tea plantation itself. One hears a lot about everyday artefacts being sized for men - from car driving seats to mobile phones; tea plantation bushes are sized for women - 60cm being the ideal working height for the mostly women pickers. Left to itself, the tea tree would grow up to about 15m.
We were then sat down for a short PowerPoint presentation about the different processes and machines we would see in the factory, as it's too noisy for explanations as we go. Ear protection? Haha, this is India. Also, no photography inside the factory (boo). The smell in and outside the factory was amazing, really smelt exactly like freshly brewed tea tastes!
By the time we had finished this second tour it was noon, roasting hot, and we still had 40km to cover. Caroline decided to retire to the support vehicle; Keshu and I cracked on. The route took us up a narrow, winding back road where the tea plantations were sparser and the hillsides more arid-looking. Kids were skinny-dipping in a pool surrounded by red rock.
On reaching our destination in the small hilltop town of Vagamon, Caroline and I were ushered to our room at the very furthest extremity of a hotel complex where we appeared to be just about the only guests. We had a balcony with a view over the valley and the pine forest reserve adjacent to the hotel, where crows were calling noisily; and a tiny room with barely enough floor space to open our cases, and dodgy electrics (needed quite a stack of adaptors to plug in our mosquito killer). A lizard surprised us - silhouetted on the outside of our bathroom window - but the inside of the room remained wildlife-free and we passed an untroubled night.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2020-02-27T09:00:32Z
Avg Pace:
3:42/km
Elevation:
1196.1
Distance:
52931.5
Moving time:
11752
Activity id:
3136257280
Strava title:
Spice Garden and Tea Factory tours with incidental bike ride
Total photo count:
6
Title:
Day 7: Spice Garden and Tea Factory tours with incidental bike ride
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
4.504
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/styles/extra/public/field/image/2819/TG200986_0.JPG?itok=TBhNipDu
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