Rest day: Wildlife walk in Periyar Tiger Reserve
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For our rest day in Thekkady, our tour leader Raju had arranged a morning guided walk in the Periyar Tiger Reserve, which was literally on the doorstep of our hotel. Our balcony actually looked out across a river flood plain to the edge of the jungle, so we were able to get some wildlife sightings without even leaving our room.
The early 07.30 walk slot, when there's more chance of large animal sightings, had unfortunately sold out, so we had to make do with the 10.00. Raju, Keshu, Caroline and I all boarded the bus to the Reserve visitor centre start point. The minimum booking was for 4 people, so Raju and Keshu were effectively there as "our treat".
Our first wildlife glimpse was this Sambar, resting nonchalantly right next to the access road.
I don't know what it is about visitor centres and giant squirrels - but here, just like at Marayoor (see https://storyteller.fit/story/6934 ) there was one in the trees right overhead - this time it was a Malabar Squirrel, according to the Ranger as he arrived to guide us.
Also in the vicinity of the visitor centre we saw a woolly-necked stork nesting ( https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woolly-necked_stork ), a pair of orange minivets, egrets and pond herons aplenty, and our first glimpse of the pied kingfisher, spotted on the far shore by our eagle-eyed Ranger. They have 4 different kingfisher species on the reserve - we also got a brief glimpse of one of the others.
Above: Woolly-necked Stork
Above: Indian Pond Herons
Below: first sighting of the Pied Kingfisher
To start our hike route, first we had to cross the creek on this hand-pulled rope ferry:
Almost the moment we reached the opposite shore, the pied kingfisher put on a display of high-speed aerobatics more or less right in front of us. It was quite incredible watching it hover, dive, splash into the water, emerge in a flurry of spray and zoom off again. Photographing it, though, was quite another matter. The Nikon's autofocus kept locking onto the trees in the background instead of the tiny fast-moving bird, so I only got blurry streaks of black & white.
I was having a lot of grief with the camera today. I had only just bought this particular second-hand Nikon (a D810) right before this trip, and have only had the Sigma 150-600mm lens for a few months. Both camera and lens have numerous different autofocus controls and I haven't yet fully worked out how exactly which combinations work best for each type of subject.
To protect the lens, I was carrying it with the lens cap on and the zoom lock engaged, so my workflow on spotting a likely subject was as follows:
Switch on camera.
Remove lens cap.
Decide if subject is bright (e.g. egret) or dark (e.g. kite) and dial in appropriate exposure compensation (although I had the camera set to spot metering, in practice the metering was also reading from the background because the subjects were so small).
Decide if subject is static or moving (or likely to move) and select aperture or shutter priority.
Decide if subject is closer or further than 10m away and select close or distant autofocus range on the lens.
Disengage zoom lock.
If subject is still there(!!): frame, zoom, focus, shoot.
Get any of the above wrong and, even if you can get the camera to bear, the resulting shot is likely to be useless - as when the very rare cuckoo flew right past our noses and alighted briefly in a nearby tree. I had time for just one shot, and darn me, the lens was set to sub-10m for photographing the Coral Tree, so it wouldn't focus as the cuckoo was further away than that.
Above: a very, very blurry cuckoo
Below: a very, very sharp (in every sense!) Indian Coral Tree
Unsurprisingly, I soon got pretty hot and flustered with this routine, as well as getting achey arms and shoulders from constantly lifting the huge camera/lens combo up & down. Surprisingly, I did get a few decent photos.
Above: a Pipit sitting on a pile of elephant poo
Below: Brahminy Kite. Is that nesting material in its claws, or a pond heron??
Above: Chestnut-headed Bee-eater
Below: Greater Flameback Woodpecker
Below: Parakeet
Also, the Ranger was terribly keen that I should photograph this, but I didn't catch what it was. (Google Lens suggests its a Common Sandpiper.)
And it wasn't just all about birds...
Above and both below: orchids (yes, the thing that looks like dry brown leaves really is one!)
Above: unidentified butterflies
Below: unidentified fungi
Finally, just as we got back to the rope ferry at the end of the walk, the Pied Kingfisher put in a repeat appearance. This time, I switched the lens to manual focus and trusted myself to do the job the autofocus had failed me at earlier. Results are far from perfect, but a darn sight better than the earlier ones. What an incredible bird! We were all stunned.
And what of the tigers? you ask.
Well, we saw a couple of bleached Gaur (bison) skulls - see photo at the top of this post - which our Ranger explained are a favourite prey of the tigers. But they don't eat them immediately, as a tiger likes its beef well hung - they drag the carcass into the bushes and then watch it for about 3 days, warding off scavengers, before tucking in.
And... there was this tiger footprint!
Type:
Walk
Date:
2020-02-26T10:35:16Z
Avg Pace:
17:48/km
Elevation:
86
Distance:
2899.6
Moving time:
3096
Activity id:
3133004999
Strava title:
Periyar Tiger Reserve
Total photo count:
9
Title:
Rest day: Wildlife walk in Periyar Tiger Reserve
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Still no tigers - but we saw their prey and their footprints!
Average speed:
0.937
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/styles/extra/public/field/image/2819/IMG_20200226_132723.jpg?itok=_PaPEKoE
StreamLatLng:
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