Day 9: The Chase is Off
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Our time on the houseboat had passed very peacefully - it was a real change of pace for us after the constant biking & hiking activity of the tour so far. There was nothing for us to do except sit in stately comfort watching the waterways slip by and being served delicious meals and drinks by the crew.
Well, that last bit about drinks is kind of wishful thinking - as I remarked already in yesterday's post a G&T or two would have been a welcome addition! In fact the drinks service amounted to a fresh coconut milk "welcome drink" on embarkation; bottled water; and tea.
When we wanted a chilled lime soda, we had to wait and buy it from a dyke-side shop where the boat moored up briefly. I went ashore with the cook/deckhand - the crew consisted just of the skipper and him - to choose and buy a fish for him to turn into our dinner later.
The mosquitoes largely stayed away, and the only real alarm occurred when a huge spider appeared on the wall above my side of the bed just as we were about to put the light out and settle down. Imagine the largest, meanest, hairiest house spider you've ever seen in Europe and then double the length of the legs; also it was slightly greyish rather than brownish. We ran in our pyjamas to summon the crew to evict it for us. (No, I didn't stop to get a photo of it!)
In the morning we were treated to another hour's mini-cruise over breakfast before docking back at the boat landing on the dot of 8am, the appointed rendezvous with our road crew.
Above: houseboats at the quayside in the early morning
Below: tree full of cormorants - expertly captured by Caroline while I was busy in the bathroom!
After the chill-out of the last 18hrs on the boat, we were not at all convinced that we could - or even wanted to! - re-energise ourselves for another scorching 60km ride up the coast to Kochi; the previous evening we had discussed the option of just riding in the support vehicle for this last leg. We agreed to "sleep on it", and in the morning Caroline opted for the support vehicle while I opted for the bike.
Keshu and I set off through the streets of Alleppey, whose market - on a Saturday morning - was a cut above any we've seen so far, in terms of size, variety and quality of the produce on offer - all sorts of fruit and veg as well as lots of fish - the town is notable for fish, being on an isthmus with the sea on one side and the lake and backwaters on the other. My camera stayed in my pocket through here, as the mêlée of pedestrians plus vehicles of all kinds didn't allow even a moment's inattention. I also wished I could photograph the huge and impressive St Michael's Catholic Church complex, complete with school and community centre.
Below: potato and onion shop in Alleppey
Just after passing St Michael's, we had an especially tricky right turn to execute, where Jamal drove the support vehicle close in front of us to partly block the traffic and help us to cross. Just at that moment, I heard and felt a high-pitched twang like a harp string being plucked, and I knew it could only mean one thing - a broken spoke - which was confirmed by a quick glance down at the front wheel as soon as we had cleared the junction.
By this time the support vehicle was disappearing off down the road - the modus operandi was for them to wait in a safe place every few km for the cycling group to catch up, let us go ahead for a while, leapfrog and repeat. Even to alert Keshu, the cycling guide, and get him to stop, required several yells above the din of the traffic
Of all the things to go wrong with my bike, a broken *front* wheel spoke was the very last thing I would have expected. In my previous experience, spokes only ever break in the back wheel, on the freewheel side, and then only on wheels which are relatively new and/or inexpertly built and/or have low quality spokes. These wheels fitted none of those categories, being two years old and veterans of several tough tours in the Alps and Himalayas, which should have exposed any defects long before now. In fact I was so confident about my wheels that I hadn't even bothered to bring spare spokes.
If this had happened earlier in the tour, I'd probably have switched to the spare bike (there was one on the support vehicle, in case of need) while getting the support crew to find a bike shop capable of effecting repairs - quite a tall order, as sports bike shops are pretty thin on the ground in southern India. Besides sourcing a spoke of exactly the right length and grade, the repair would involve removing and refitting both the disc brake rotor and the tubeless tyre, with sealant refilling, blah blah blah. On the last day of our tour, it simply wasn't worth even contemplating. We'll get our friendly local bike shop in Potsdam to fix it once we are home.
With Keshu, I continued at low speed until we next caught up the support vehicle - luckily Jamal had pulled up less than a km ahead - and then my tour was over.
Every cloud has a silver lining. Driving in the support vehicle, with stops at scenic locations, I had different and potentially better photo opportunities than I would have had while cycling - including the opportunity to use the Nikon (which I hadn't been carrying on the bike).
Above: Alappuzha Beach - complete with ruined pier - all that is left of a once-busy cargo port
Below: fisherman flanked by light and dark egrets
Above & below: fishing boats at Alaphuzza
Spotted on the road:
Above: drummers and dancers escorting a procession carrying felled trees to repair a temple
Below: plastic bottle collector with tricycle (love the wooden rear wheel!)
Above & below: the magnificent 1967 St Andrew's Church in Arthunkal
Below: the church has outdoor life-size sculptures of each Mystery of the Rosary
Above: the fishing harbour at Andhakaranazhi
Below: egrets with anchor
And one final bonus of our misfortune was arriving at the hotel in time to get our bikes boxed up for the flight, with the help of the crew, before lunch; one less job to worry about between now and our departure.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2020-02-29T08:33:01Z
Avg Pace:
4:11/km
Elevation:
18.2
Distance:
4275.3
Moving time:
1074
Activity id:
3140767309
Strava title:
For you ze War is over
Total photo count:
2
Title:
Day 9: The Chase is Off
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Broken spoke put paid to today's ride - last day of tour, so not worth the hassle of fixing until we get home
Average speed:
3.981
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/dc38cd05-9000-4027-a1d1-7beb0cd79d84.jpg
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