Day 6: Cardamom, Pepper, Road works and Religion
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Something remarkable happened on the way back up the steep path to our hotel apartment after breakfast: that same path which had just about been the final straw at the conclusion of yesterday's ride https://storyteller.fit/story/6940 . I was running late, catching up with Caroline who had gone on ahead, and I was leaping up this path like a mountain goat. I couldn't quite understand why it had given us so much trouble yesterday. Clearly I was feeling a lot better!
(The breakfast had been absolutely terrible, by the way - worst of the tour - and late, to boot. But the early morning view just about made up for it.)
At 90km, today's route was the longest single day on the tour, so it was important to get away promptly, but it was not to be: the nominal 08.30 departure turned into nearer 9 o'clock.
Stunning views or not, the first downhill section required our eyes to be on the road, as it was a continuation of yesterday's extreme roadworks - including slow-moving construction lorries which we were obliged to overtake 😁
At one point I lagged behind to get a good photo of Keshu and Caroline on one of the hairpin bends - only to realise when it was almost too late, as one hand was occupied tucking the little Olympus camera back into my jersey pocket, that it was extra steep and extra gravelly on the apex of the bend, and required full attention to control of the bike; the apparent aplomb with which Keshu and Caroline handled it hadn't given me any hint that it would be extra tricky.
After descending through yet more tea plantations to the level of the lake we could see from our hotel balcony - photo above (actually a reservoir) - the road undulated at around the same height for a while.
Then suddenly we found ourselves in a cooler shady micro-climate on a north-facing slope, and Keshu pointed out that the plantations on either side of the road were now cardamom instead of tea.
I'd never knowingly seen a cardamom plant and it was quite unlike what I would have imagined: it's basically an enormous grassy thing, with the flowers and eventually the seeds produced on a horizontal stem emerging at ground level. We stopped the bikes and Keshu took us a few yards into an unfenced plantation to show us.
Cardamom wasn't the only spice in evidence: in one village, tarpaulins had been spread at the roadside with peppercorns drying. (That village also had an especially fine mosque - along with churches and temples of several other religions/denominations - religious diversity evidently works ok here in Kerala!)
After a tough but thankfully quite short ascent, our crew called a halt at a tea shack - next to an immaculate residential building where the proprietress invited Caroline in to use her private bathroom when she needed it, instead of the "gents" round the side - which was also immaculately well-kept, by the way - best we've seen all tour!
I was hungry after the deficient breakfast and they were able to serve me a delicious cheese omelette, along with a banana and lemon tea, which revived me nicely; Caroline was less hungry and made do with just the tea and banana.
The ride became much less enjoyable from this point onwards as the day was getting hotter, the road was narrow and quite busy, and we experienced more aggressive overtaking in an hour than we had had on the entire tour so far. Jamal, our support vehicle driver, had been telling us at every opportunity how much more law-abiding and responsible the Kerala people are than in Tamil Nadu where we started; at this point we were not at all sure we believed him!
Caroline had had enough by the lunch break and was developing a migraine - she took meds and retired to the support vehicle. I, meanwhile, decided to fight fire with fire on the road - soon my throat was quite hoarse from all the shouting in lieu of a horn.
The afternoon session turned into more of an endurance test than a pleasurable ride - coping with the heat and the traffic while counting down the kilometres to the destination. The main features of interest were several impressive churches. Catholic, Protestant and Orthodox (especially Syrian Orthodox) are all in evidence here.
A final exhilarating swoosh down through several hairpin bends cheered us up and cooled us down on arrival in Kumily, a busy tourist town focused on spices and eco-tourism, and its conjoined neighbour Thekkady where we were actually staying. The wackily-named Ranger Woods Nature Castle also has rather wacky architecture - think log cabin meets children's adventure playground, complete with rope bridge crossing the swimming pool to reach the restaurant! - but provided the largest and most comfortable room of the tour, complete with balcony overlooking the jungle, and a sculptural wooden TV stand which we wasted no time in converting to a laundry airer!
Above: dawn view from the balcony
Below: family of wild pigs photographed from the balcony
Below: laundry day at Ranger Woods
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2020-02-25T08:48:46Z
Avg Pace:
3:39/km
Elevation:
2128.6
Distance:
88696
Moving time:
19460
Activity id:
3130350561
Strava title:
Rolling through the Cardamom Hills
Total photo count:
16
Title:
Day 6: Cardamom, Pepper, Road works and Religion
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
(With extreme road works)
Average speed:
4.558
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/15ab5bcc-c281-4fe9-b70d-995246c8ee38.jpg
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