Day 5: A long climb through tea plantations followed by descent on a half built road
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At this halfway point of the tour, my body has been somewhat "in the wars". Besides my long-standing arthritic big toe, I have a bad back - probably from lugging bike boxes and heavy suitcases around airports; a bruised knee from walking into something at some point (can't remember exactly what, now); a very sore right quad which I pulled when I fell on yesterday's wildlife walk https://storyteller.fit/story/6934 ; and - the cherry on the cake - I managed to clobber my right thumb whilst over-enthusiastically swatting a mosquito at dinner on the night of our arrival in Marayoor. The restaurant kitchen managed to provide ice to take down the bruising, which warranted an extra tip!
Last night it was the quad especially which was bothering me, and I remarked to Caroline that there was probably a 20% chance that it would be my turn in the support vehicle next day.
Luckily, a few stretch exercises, slow release ibuprofen and a good night's sleep did the trick, and by the time our alarm clock heralded the sunrise, both of us felt ready to face the 700m climb on the road to Munnar.
My punctured tyre was in better shape too, having apparently not lost any air over the rest day - in fact I had the opposite problem and decided to let some air *out*, as I was afraid that the pressure differential at higher altitude might burst through the tubeless self-sealed repair. (I've had something similar happen to me before - see https://storyteller.fit/story/4059 )
The mountain air was pleasantly cool and fresh as we started the ascent, through impeccably tidy fenced estates of sandalwood and coffee plantations, with intricate irrigation systems including an aqueduct.
As we climbed higher, the sandalwood and coffee gave way to tea plantations, edged with poinsettia bushes, with the occasional paulownia tree adding a splash of purple.
On the edge of one village we came upon a very smart-looking plantation tea shop, and as the support vehicle had not yet gone ahead of us at that point, I unilaterally decided that we would take our first tea stop of the day there, and also buy some merchandise to take back home with us. Keshu waited at the gate to flag down the support vehicle while Caroline and I shopped, and then we all enjoyed a delicious cup of tea together. (Be amazed, those of you who know me as exclusively a coffee drinker!)
*We* were the ones being amazed by the ever-widening vista, as we climbed higher, of the acres and acres of closely-cropped tea bushes in their mosaic patterns - almost like ornamental box.
Here and there, nestling in the valleys, were clusters of plantation estate buildings with what appeared to be workers' accommodation as well as processing and packing buildings. We remarked on the fact that there seemed to be no space assigned for the workers to grow vegetables for themselves: every possible square inch taken up by the "cash crop".
We passed the brightly coloured "tea ladies" finishing their morning shift.
The climb felt long, if not especially steep, and we were pleased to reach the top at about 11.30. The Alpine habit of putting up a pass summit sign with the altitude hasn't caught on here, so we had to make do with a selfie-by-proxy (thanks, Raju!) in front of the view. (1885m, in case you were wondering.)
We still had some way to go to earn lunch, though, so after just a short snack/photo stop we pitched into the long, winding descent through more tea plantations to Munnar. This entire pass road was engineered to standards the Swiss would have been proud of, with km after km of smooth, dark blacktop (here and there the tarmac laying machines were still parked at the roadside) but this emphatically ran out a couple of km outside Munnar, where a new bridge was being built, and the diversion around it basically entailed traversing the building site. Once past the bridge works, it was as though that pristine tarmac had never existed!
Munnar town had the craziest traffic we've encountered yet; so crazy that my camera stayed firmly in my pocket while I concentrated on staying alive! Anyway, the town wasn't photogenic - a mix of touristy tat with general dusty detritus - until suddenly a riverside garden full of beautiful flowers appeared like a shaft of sunlight in a rainstorm.
On the further edge of the town, we stopped for our packed lunches in the shade of a smart new bus shelter, opposite the entrance to the smart new (not yet complete) Botanical Garden.
Resuming after lunch was quite tough as it was now the hottest part of the day, the road was rough and quite steeply uphill, and my various sore muscles had stiffened up during our break to the extent that I could hardly bend myself back into the right shape to mount the bike! Caroline, also, was suffering with the heat and her shoulder, but we were both determined to continue for now. Caroline was contemplating stopping at the second, lower summit as she finds descending on gravel roads extremely scary.
The road from Munnar to Chinnakanal switches - apparently at random - from over-engineered to not engineered at all, via every stage of construction in between. You could be bowling along a pristine wide highway, round a bend and suddenly be confronted with a 10cm drop from tarmac onto rough stony gravel, partially blocked by piles of roadbuilding materials and parked (or, occasionally, working) bulldozers. All the while, though, the views across the tea plantations were spectacular, with a much wider vista than in the valleys we had been riding through this morning. They seemed to go on for ever!
Eventually we reached the top, from where Caroline was gratefully anticipating a lift in the support vehicle which was waiting there for us … at a road block, along with several other vehicles and a gaggle of motorcyclists.
Raju came over to congratulate us on the climb and explained that this was the section where they are still doing rock blasting operations; it was closed until 16.00 (over an hour hence); but that he was negotiating for us cyclists to be allowed through anyway!! Caroline quickly decided that she'd rather take her chance with the gravel and the dynamite than swelter for an hour at the roadblock, where by the way she would have been the only woman; then the barrier was moved aside and off we went, to the visible annoyance of the motorcyclists! I just prayed that the radio link to the detonator guy was good!
On the plus side: there was no traffic!! The new road was engineered with a pretty gentle gradient, and I think Caroline surprised herself by how well she fared with the descent. It wasn't long before we were back on tarmac, and then moments later we were turning into the driveway of our hotel - one final steep ascent to the front door.
Did I say "final"? It turned out that this was an apartment-style hotel, with a series of separate buildings extending quite some way up the hillside, and once my bike was removed from me I could scarcely force my aching limbs to propel me up the very steep slope to our "room". Caroline wasn't faring much better! The view from our balcony, though - mountains, misty valley and lake - was fabulous.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2020-02-24T08:04:35Z
Avg Pace:
5:08/km
Elevation:
2262.6
Distance:
59015
Moving time:
18200
Activity id:
3127463614
Strava title:
Long climb through tea plantations followed by descent on a half built road
Total photo count:
12
Title:
Day 5: A long climb through tea plantations followed by descent on a half built road
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
More photos later when uploaded from other camera!
Average speed:
3.243
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/d698c166-eb75-4b08-9a0b-e4a6be4efe31.jpg
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