The Devil's favourite roads (Himalayas tour day 7)
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Dramatic gorge on the descent from Lachulung La to Pang
At 73.8km, today's ride was the longest in our tour itinerary - mitigated by the fact that the route was mostly flat or downhill; de-mitigated by the altitude: our initial climb of "only" 300m from the campsite took us above 5000m altitude for the first time, to Lachulung La, a pass at 5064m.
I'd managed a decent night's sleep in camp for the first (post-tour edit: and only) time on the tour, despite being intermittently aware of wind and rain lashing the tent. The day dawned fair, though, and at 8am sharp we rolled out of the camp site, splashed through the ford at Whisky Nullah (where a large number of military vehicles were parked up) and headed off to tackle the zigzag ascent of the steep mountainside which had been looming intimidatingly over our camp site. Soon, that camp site was a mere speck in the green-tinged valley far below.
At about 100m altitude below the summit, Raj called a rest stop - but I flatly insisted on carrying on, as I had hit a good rhythm and also there seemed to be a lull in the lorry traffic. Moments later, I got a glimpse into the valley which confirmed that this had been a good call, as I could see that the army convoy had moved off from Whisky Nullah and was heading up the pass. The road was narrow and unsurfaced and I *REALLY* didn't fancy being overtaken by 30 lorries all squeezing me over to the side and making me choke on their dust and exhaust. I summoned emergency power and stormed up the last part of the ascent, praying for more downward traffic to come through and slow down the army due to passing on the narrow road - and I reached the summit 2mins before the lead army vehicle!
Lachulung La summit : no, I didn't spell it wrongly! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lungalacha_La
The descent couldn't have been more of a contrast, and was probably the most dramatic scenery of the tour so far. The road went through a gorge with sandstone pinnacles - deep red, in place of yesterday's ochre - and towering fissured bluffs.
Our guides had warned us of the difficult road conditions, but although it was rough, it wasn't any worse than what we had already encountered on the tour; more sustainedly so, maybe. (Post-tour edit: the top part of Khardung La https://storyteller.fit/story/5598 was considerably worse!) This was exactly the sort of road and ride my bike was built for and I had a thoroughly enjoyable time - I told the guides afterwards that I wished all my tours could be on roads like that!
Frustratingly, before tackling the next ascent we had a very long wait in a tea shack because the guides wanted to re-sync us with the other group. I would have been OK with taking the actual lunch break at this point (it was almost noon), but they wanted us to have it at the top ... oh well, whatever ...
This climb was quite a short one, only 250m, and wasn't a pass as such, but rather an ascent onto a wide high plateau, the More Plains https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/More_plains, at around 4700m altitude. At the top, the view was breathtaking, and once again utterly different to what had gone before.
The plateau stretched for miles ahead of us, ringed by distant mountains, and cut by the river canyon we had just climbed out of, with a spectacular view back down into it. This amazing river is called Sumkhel Lungpa, and the terrain it flows through is so remote that a web search yields almost no online information about it (at least in English). Its name isn't even shown on Google Maps!
Sumkhel Lungpa river : view from the road above Pang
Such a commanding view, in fact, that there are gun emplacements (now disused)
It was blowing a hooley at the top, and together with the altitude that meant it was pretty chilly. The support vehicle took its time arriving with our lunch packs, and then it started to rain! Rain jackets on, and we hunkered down between the gun emplacement walls to find shelter. It was very dramatic watching the localised rain squalls sweeping in across the mountains while the rest of the scene was bathed in sunlight.
By the time lunch arrived the rain had passed, so all we had to worry about was keeping hold of everything so it didn't blow away the moment we opened the lunch boxes!
After lunch: lo and behold: a smooth 2-lane black-top road spearing its way across the plateau!
With that wind behind us, and slightly downhill too, we fairly flew along ... I haven't had such a long freewheel since the Stelvio Pass! https://storyteller.fit/story/5338
Gradually the flanking mountains closed in, so that we were in more of a wide valley than an open plain; gradually the wind shifted, so that we were battling against it, which wasn't such great fun; and at length Raj called a halt and took us off along a sandy track at right angles along a side valley between striking red hills, which led to our camp site at Tso Kar Lake.
360 degree panorama shot at the point where we left the road : the trail we took is in the centre
After arrival in camp I gave the "Devil" a good clean, much needed after the mud-plugging of the last two days: second clean of the tour, or the third if you count the pre-flight clean at Zurich Airport https://storyteller.fit/story/5377
Before & after cleaning at Tso Kar Lake camp
Later, the guides drove us further up the track to see the actual lake, and sad to report: it is almost completely dried up, just a few puddles left amongst the evaporated salt deposits.
Evening at Tso Kar salt lake
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2019-07-09T02:28:54Z
Avg Pace:
3:60/km
Elevation:
1089.9
Distance:
73837
Moving time:
17684
Activity id:
2522564571
Strava title:
Himalayas day 7: via Lachulung La (5064m) to camp at Tso Kar Lake
Total photo count:
1
Title:
The Devil's favourite roads (Himalayas tour day 7)
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
4.175
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/98267718-e195-443d-b17a-509f4a4b0177.jpg
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