Waterfowl and sea buckthorn - but no trains and no lunch!
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Rietzer See, the destination of today's ride
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After last autumn's adventure seeing and photographing literally tens of thousands of migrating cranes - which I may or may not get around to blogging about at some point - Caroline and I decided that bird observation around Brandenburg was going to be "a thing". (I hesitate to call it "birdwatching" in case anyone thinks we are getting too serious about it!)
We bought the definitive English-language guidebook on the subject ( https://www.bird-lens.com/2018/02/07/a-birdwatching-guide-to-brandenburg... ) and used it to plan likely bird-spotting locations on a number of our rides, most spectacularly when tracking down the great bustards at Havelländisches Luch, see story: https://storyteller.fit/story/7622
Today's mission brief, with the second wave of the COVID-19 pandemic raging higher by the day, was to plan a ride that we could do from home without using the virus-ridden train to extend our range (which we have done on a number of recent rides, including the one to Havelländisches Luch). A 100km loop via the banks of the Havel river to the Rietzer See, one of the bird sites mentioned in the book which we hadn't yet visited, fitted the brief perfectly. We filled flasks of coffee, loaded one pannier with my Nikon and biggest lens, the other pannier mostly left empty to take the clothing layers we expected to shed during the day as it warmed up; it was overcast and only about 7°C when we set off a few minutes after what should have been "sunrise".
We headed westwards along our well-worn route to the railway- and footbridge across the Havel at Werder - the river has only a few crossing points so we very often find ourselves going this way. The Werder bridge occasioned the first stop to get out the Nikon, not because of the birds but to photograph a small boat with two fishermen in silhouette against the glassy water and distant misty bank.
Fishermen on the Havel at Werder
We continued through Werder town and out to the village of Kemnitz, where there are nearly always a few cranes to be seen in the nearby fields. Not today, though; we could hear them calling to each other in the air, but couldn't see them as they were flying above the low cloud layer. Eventually a gap in the clouds gave us a brief glimpse of their high-flying formations; then the clouds closed up again and then it started to rain! We had the feeling that the rain would only be short-lived, though, and there was a convenient bus shelter where we sat under cover for our first coffee break with cranberry buns. By the time we'd finished, not only had the rain stopped but the sun had even begun to break through, and we made a start on filling up that empty pannier with discarded layers!
We continued on along the Havel Cycle Way (the loop to the north in the map above), mostly running along an embankment with views over the water to our right and over the flat fields on the left to low wooded hills in the middle distance. The whole atmosphere of the morning was remarkably peaceful, with almost nothing happening even with the weather. No wind, no rain, very flat light; barely a handful of other walkers or cyclists out - we met one of them twice when he came round the other side of our loop later! Only the sky was busier, with flocks of different birds purposefully criss-crossing above us - geese, cranes, cormorants, crows - with their respective calls swelling and fading in the air.
Cloudy banks of the Havel with a flight of cranes just discernable (top left)
A solitary green woodpecker flew teasingly ahead of us for a while (I still haven't managed to get a decent woodpecker photo!) and every now and then a grey heron would fly up from its fishing station beside the adjacent drainage ditch.
After another couple of hours it was time for our second coffee-and-bun stop, at a picnic table overlooking the Havel and next to a very nicely done map/information board.
Coffee stop by the Havel
Nice info map: we were headed to the "Emster Gewässer", lower right centre of the map
Then it was time to strike due south away from the Havel, across the main road and then following the Emster Canal - which sounds grandiose but is barely big enough to take a SUP (which we might actually try doing sometime).
Emster Canal: view back the way we came, from the bridge mentioned in the story
A sign some distance down the canal-side track warned that it was closed for roadworks at the canal bridge ahead, but we decided to apply my usual principle of ignoring road closure signs when cycling, especially as there had been no hint of a bike diversion sign back at the point where the signposted bike route we were following diverged from the main road. And there was nothing whatever wrong with the bridge - so I was starting to think it was a false alarm - until we turned the corner after the bridge and found that the entire bike path had been completely dug out, leaving only a sandy/muddy trench with the caterpillar track imprints of the construction vehicles!
Caroline sizing up the roadworks section
I was just opening my mouth to call an about-turn - we were only a couple of kilometres down the track and there was a perfectly viable alternative route (though slightly longer and less interesting) - when Caroline, in a spectacular piece of role reversal, announced "Come on, I reckon we can get through this" and launched her bike down the earth ramp into the trench! Historically, I'm the one who is gung-ho about tackling dodgy rough tracks and Caroline is the one who needs cajoling, but since fitting the fat 53mm Gravel King tyres on her bike a couple of months ago her confidence on those types of surfaces has been transformed. And my judgement this time was probably over-influenced by the fact that I had just thoroughly cleaned both bikes after our previous trip and also didn't want to skank my nearly-new panniers. Anyway, it was too late to argue - Caroline was well away and I had no option but to follow, although with my heavier load and somewhat narrower tyres I did get bogged down a couple of times while Caroline sailed serenely on!
Once through the roadworks, we were immediately in the neat little village of Rietz, and moments later reached the bird observation tower which is located behind the fire station.
Rietz village
Rietz bird observation tower and the view from the upper level, out across the lake
I'm not sure if you would really want to live in Rietz because the bird noise (mostly geese) was pervasive, insistent and incessant!
Rietzer See: Piccadilly Circus for geese
We were the only visitors at the tower - no COVID masks needed - and spent a few minutes looking out over the lake watching the hordes of geese, occasional cranes, and even a pair of swans in flight which I missed because I hadn't got the camera out yet. The view was lovely, the bird photography opportunities less than spectacular though - I shot fewer than a dozen frames - though as it faces roughly east, it might be good for a dawn visit when the flying birds are silhouetted against the sunrise.
Cranes at Rietz
Geese at Rietz
Our route now turned eastwards back towards home, looping round the south side of Rietzer See on a muddy track and then north again to Strengsee, a smaller lake surrounded by a wetland nature reserve.
Muddy road to nowhere: normally the top half of the yellow sign shows the name of the next village
Loved this brick barn in Prützke with its distressed turquoise doors!
At Strengsee there is another bird observation tower, but this one had a queue to get in: at least some semblance of social distancing, although nobody was wearing their masks. We decided not to bother queuing, as the variety of bird life didn't seem much different to what we had already seen, plus a police helicopter had just flown over which had probably frightened most of them off! (Though I did fancy I had seen a glimpse of a kingfisher in trees as we approached the tower...) Also, it was 1pm by this time and we were emphatically thinking about lunch!
Emster Canal near Strengsee - somewhat wider at this point! I thought I saw a kingfisher just by here
What a disappointment, then, that when we arrived soon afterwards at the promising restaurant I had spotted on Google Maps, it turned out to be closed for a private function! The only other food option in the village of Damsdorf was a rather down-at-heel-looking "Imbiss" (snack shack) operating out of what looked like a repurposed shipping container; we decided that we'd rather refuel on an energy bar and press on, as we were only about 30km from home at this point.
Damsdorf: lovely little church, but no lunch
As it happened, both of us simultaneously hit on the idea of stopping at the café at the Sanddorn Farm which we passed on our way, a favourite place where we've stopped a few times before.
If you want Sanddorn, this is the place to be
Sanddorn - sea buckthorn - was widely cultivated in the former East Germany for its striking orange berries which have a tangy flavour and are very rich in vitamin C; it was promoted as a substitute for citrus fruits, which were difficult to import at that time. Since the reunification of Germany it has waned in popularity and this particular farm is trying to keep it alive.
Every conceivable type of sanddorn product on sale!
I said to Caroline that I hoped they would have sanddorn cheesecake, and lo, my wish was granted! (Caroline had quiche.) We also stocked up in their shop with various products - including sanddorn gin, which I'm very much looking forward to trying but have agreed to save as a Christmas present! - so my pannier which started out empty was pretty full by the time we got home!
And of course, I had to wash the bikes...
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2020-10-17T07:46:37Z
Avg Pace:
3:39/km
Elevation:
328.1
Distance:
101593
Moving time:
22243
Activity id:
4206729119
Strava title:
Rietzer See anticlockwise with Caroline
Total photo count:
8
Title:
Waterfowl and sea buckthorn - but no trains and no lunch!
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Average speed:
4.567
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